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No problem, have a blessed night Sir.

Blocked them. Works like normal now. Thanks

very nice. You don't happen to make a vacuum line distribution block do you? I have 3 items needing vacuum supply, and they don't like T's in the line.

do you have a pic of your Ace Hardware stopper? Thanks.

The ads on the site are loaded by the site admin, and are ads that have been paid for. In your situation you are going to have to block the ads on your end. I am a moderator, but I can't access or change that. Sorry Sir.

Just an addendum. Now DYNO is next. "4-22-2025. Things came into the right alignment today, and I was able to get the exhaust tied together at Bud's Muffler here in Colorado Springs, and get a final tune on the Z car. The exhaust threw all the tuning I had done before out the window. My pilot is now at 50, my needle is on the notch above the bottom groove, so more fuel, and 2 turns out on the air screw. washers are no longer under the choke, running just on the intended circuits. She is VERY quiet now, and the added backpressure seems to have made a difference, she acts better now. here are some pics and a walk around video of it all done. I would like to get a DYNO sometime. Now it's back to washing and cleaning and waxing, etc. pics follow. Cheers and God bless." Click below for video: (9) Facebook

Ads popping up continuously make it impossible to read Hybridz on my Android phone. They pop up with every selection while trying to navigate to a post. They pop up after selecting a post to read. It has become like an advertising link farm. Do I have to install an ad blocker to read posts on my android?

It's a longshot but...Does anyone have a Apex Engineered front crossmember with LS mounts that they would like to part with ?

UPDATE: Spool starts at 2600 RPM AND FULL SPOOL BY 2900-3000 RPM. Great turbo for a street Z car S30 IMHO.

ALL DONE, PROJECT LENGTH, 5 MONTHS, 20 DAYS. I WILL POST DYNO RESULTS HERE, OTHERWISE, THAT'S IT!~

UPDATE: she starts spooling around 2600 and fully spooled by 2900-3000 RPM. I will have to wait to see the dyno graph, but it seems to be pulling to 6K RPM no problem.

3 layers of insulation brake master hovers around 200 degrees F. No issues. Couple years when I bleed the system I will go to the Motul 600 degree F brake fluid.

04-21-2025 TURBO PROJECT UPDATE. Well she is done. A 5 month project and it fought me all the way, but she is drivable and just needs to go down and have the exhaust tied in.....but she is running and driving. The HSR carb, being a Motorcycle Carb has a very short throttle when used in a car. I have a 1 inch to maybe just short of 2 inches of travel, but I think it's more like 1.5 inches of travel. So, you have to ease into the power, if you just mash the throttle, it can overwhelm the setup. Granted, this is a hilly billy built, shade tree mechanic, DIY turbo setup. I started with a very dusty box of worn out crown turbo parts that I had to clean up and then order parts that would bolt together, and nothing ever went together like it was supposed to in my mind. I went with a Chinese T04/T3 Hybrid Turbo that I then sent off to the "G POP SHOP" to have them put carbon seals in it (mandatory on draw thru turbos) and go through it and make sure everything was good. I then came up with using the motorcycle carb after seeing other Z car builds other builds, even though they weren't turbocharged, but then finding out that Turbo Corvair guys were using them. My 2.9 stroker with a ported head needed a lot of fuel, even at my 6000 ft. altitude! Endless jet and needles changes, and then finally settling on a 240 main jet, a 45 pilot jet, a Y8 needle jet, a stock needle with the clip on the 2nd to last clip, 1 turn out of the air screw and still having a bit of fussiness, so I then thought out of the box....the choke circuit is a separate circuit. When idling, I pulled onthe choke and the engine got REAL happy! to I looked at the distance of the shaft when I pulled the choke knob. I then took 3 washers and ground them open and stuck them on the choke shaftand then pushed the knob down. Now I had a system where by I could, through trial and error remove a washer or "shim" one at a time to find the sweet spot! 1 washer seems to be it, although still a tad bit extra fuel at the top under wide open throttle. I can udjust some of the fuel out by adjsuting the accelerator pump to not pump during htat situation, which will lean it up and make it run even better, jsut more trial and error. I will fien tune it a bit and then take it and get it put on a syno jsut to see for fun what I have. It would be nice to think my homemade deal would give me 40 horsepower, but we won't know until DYNO day. I have added a few pics and 5 video's of driving the car. keep in mind, the exhaust is loud but you can really hear the turbo. Thanks for all the positive comments over the last 5 months.....and the few that told me "you're going to blow up the engine" ......."it won't work" .........."you're just going to destroy it"....."you are stupid, everyone knows draw through systems and carbs do not work." (even though Corvair guys and air cooled VW guys do it all the time, and were a huge source for info)...... .well, it worked so I guess you aren't as smart as you have led yourself to believe. Cheers! Pics and vid's (5) follow click below for video's. should be 5 total, one after another. If it doesn't work, PLEASE let me know. VIDEO link: (20+) Facebook

04-21-20205 UPDATE: I went ahead and dropped the needle, went down to a 45 pilot and increased the main jet to 230 from a 210. quick drive, starts and idles easy at 1.5 turns out on the pilot screw now, needle movement was too much, as soon as the throttle rolls into the needle, A/F ratio goes to 16/17 to 1 I managed to get through that and on to the main jet, instead of fall flat, now just pop and sputter....LEAN..... SO......I will richen the needle 1 slot, go from 230 main to 240 and see what happens. I lost the plastic washer under the clip for the needle and installed anyway, seems to have the effect of leaning it out 1 slot, I ordered some plastic washers for it, if they don't come in before I work on it again, will adjust needle and main and see what happens. I can't believe it finally idles on it's own. Once this is better then I can take it down and get the exhaust fixed. 99% done.

My 1978 quartz clock started losing time last summer. I had a spare, so took it apart to see what could be changed. There are only 5 components on the circuit board as follows: 1. 16v 100uF capacitor (Nippon chemi con CEO4W) 2. 200 ohm resistor. (Cant figure out the exact specs. It has 200 ohms and either I or 1 JL6 printed on it and its green. Its about 11 or 12 mm long, which from read I have read may mean its a 1 watt??? and 3 or 4 mm wide. Under it on the board is printed R for resistor presumably.) Not sure what kind of resisitor it is. 3. Next to that is what I'm guessing is a Zener Diode as it has ZD printed on the board next to it, and has a band on one end. Its white with a red band and has either LX or X7 written on it. 4. I think a crystal oscillator labelled 4194.5 TOYO COM 7C4. It has XTA printed on the board next to it. 5. A 16 pin chip that I think the symbol on it may be hitachi? HD44001 7K 33. The capacitors are all over Amazon, so not a problem to find. Does anyone know if any of these other parts can be sourced anywhere? I would like to replace with new as much as possible while I have it apart.

Good news is my exhaust collector is ready for pick up ! Bolt this thing up and ready to fire . Reached out to Chickenman- Richard Boyk - who said he’s done tuning with ITBS before has set me up a base tune . Can say enough how helpful this is since Alpha N is all new to me .

04-20-2025 TURBO PROJECT UPDATE: I replaced the main turbo hose as the original was leaking and causing me to lose vacuum. I cut it off and then held up the replacement hose I got online, made by HPS, it has an offset bend it in, which from the pics, you can see i needed. it is of a much more sturdy design, and I had to take measurements and then wrap it and cut it with a cutting wheel in my Dremel. it is VERY difficult to get on there. you have to remove the manifold and then once together, you have to use a small pipe as a lever to get it started, but then it pops on, saving HOURS of work to put it on without using this trick. After this, I started cutting and installing a piece of carbon fiber I got off of eBay. It is sticky on one side, so it was simply the task to cut and fit, then peel off the back and install. This is part of the final beautification to finish the project off. Then it was time for a drive. I have a weird situation with a hanging throttle, and it allowed me to get it idling and I was able to fine tune the air screw on the carb to make it better, but I think it is too rich. but I am not sure, as it easily dies if you blip the throttle and let it come down on it's own to idle.....50/50 chance it idles or dies, so maybe it needs MORE fuel? this is part of the idle or pilot circuit from idle to 1/4 throttle, the transition to the needle "feels fat".....I think it is just too rich. I had moved the needle up to get more fuel, and now I think i need to lean it out. once I hit 3/4 throttle and go on to the main jet, it reacts like a power band on a 2 stroke engine, night and day performance, it squats the rear and rips up to about 4500 then falls flat, so I guess it doesn't have enough fuel? I will also have to go through my checklist on my ignition knock sensor. A major issue is coming up to a stop, and the idle just hands up at a high RPM until I blip the the throttle and then it falls. Any ideas? Thanks. Pics follow:

Thanks again this thread and the pics were money, picked up a little rubber stopper from Ace Hardware and worked like a charm. Saw the little orange pieces on the carpet floor, thanks again. Perfect script.

Graphed some trans and diff gearing options along with my current speeds at Sebring and some theoretical speeds for my build. Apples and Oranges on the cars, but the thing should be faster both in corners and on top speed. I might be a little optimistic on my theoretical speeds, but had to give it a shot. Thinking of option 3 as I get some use of 5th gear.

WOW, you have really gotten after it! Massive amount of work done. I bet you're tired. very pretty. GOOD JOB!

@Zetsaz a lot of my friends have been doing the same 😅...not a bad move imo if you're planning to use the parts. My OSG LSD actually came in a month or so ago before this whole mess but as we've seen things can change by the hour lol. One thing to look out for is some importers have already been upcharging 25%+ for "tariffs" even though they aren't fully in place yet. I was asking around this past few weeks and got similar stories from a lot of 3rd party importers so maybe they were anticipating and charging the 25%+ upfront to be safe, but who knows if they would've pocketed the fees or refunded those extra costs if the tax bill didn'tcome in. I ended up ordering parts direct from JP companies like Escort and they did not charge me the thousands of extra in "tariff" fees, they just let me know if it's stopped in customs I would need to pay the taxes to get it released which has always been my experience prior.

I've used Arizona tint before and liked how it turned out on the G37, but I'm more than happy to try a different reputable place especially if the cost is better or I can get better work for a comparable price.

I've heard Mo's Tint in Smithfield is supposed to be really reasonable and do good work.

Daaaaaaaaaang You had literally the same idea I did. At a minimum I think I'll be ordering an OS Giken LSD to avoid future tariffs. That Escort piece is super nice. Was tempted to get the escort finned R200 cover, but I know realistically I have no use for it. Will be negligible benefit at best compared to my oem finned cover. Better off saving that money for the KW suspension haha. Looking into more stuff that I might need in the future and trying to get an import order done within the next week.

Here is something fun/ silly I have been thinking of and finally made. It’s a remote oil pressure distribution block made to look like the stock 240z brake prop valve. I previously had a steel T In the block, that broke off and then when I was using an easy out I cracked my stock block bung. I said never again! 3D metal printing is neat stuff. I had it tumbled to look even more cast. I run stock gauges and my ecu needs its own signal. This location allows stock wiring to also work.