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My current issue is with leaking oil and coolant. My head gasket is leaking coolant - this is between cylinder 1 and 2 on the RH side. I can see the coolant right at the edge of the engine/cyl head. When I installed the new timing cover, my head gasket got torn at the top. I made a gasket and used some aerobic silicone. The oil is leaking a little on both sides. The plan is to remove the cylinder head, take it to the shop to get it reconditioned (new stem seals, check the springs etc), put a new set of ARP stud fasteners with an OEM gasket. The new gasket will also stop, hopefully, the leak at the top of the timing cover. I checked the prices on the Nissan head bolts - they are in the hundreds now. Not sure what happened. The MSA is basically recommending to go cheaper ARP route (which used to cost more in the past, now it is reverse).

I also decided to re-address the lean condition on hot restarts. When it happens, the fuel pressure would bounce around, 18 - 22 psi. The FPR is set to 37-38 psi (w/o vacuum), at idle normal psi is around 31-32 psi with the vacuum attached. The FPR is an Aeromotive unit. Started with the fuel pump's (Walbro 255) voltage. 1. My original design - battery -> circuit breaker -> microsquirt's fuel pump relay -> main relay -> 30AMP relay (Inertia switch) -> Fuel Pump All wiring is 14 gauge. The voltage delta between the battery's and the fuel pump's was 1.5 Volts! 2. Re-did the ground - dedicated negative to the back panel's ground point where the tail lights get grounded. The delta was 1.2 Volts. 3. Installed a dedicated FP relay in the engine bay (Tyco 75Amp, with a 25amp fuse), with direct run to the fuel pump. The microsquirt's relay provides a trigger on post 86, inertia switch (in cabin) - ground. The delta is 0.3 Volts. Here is a diagram: Another possible issue might be related to the pre-pump's G3 Fram's filter being too restrictive (40 micron). Installed a 100 micron pre-filter: The pump is very quiet. The hot restart ends up with 14-15 AFRs for about 40 seconds, then it scales back to my pre-configured 13.5 at idle. I don't see a lot of fuel pressure fluctuations any more. As a precaution I added a 1979's 'hair dryer' to cool my injectors. I found it at a junk yard. I am using a time relay board which is set for 15 minutes. When I park the car, I can engage it from inside. I will test it on a hot day:

Installed a set of OEM engine mounts. They are still available, the cheapest ones are shipped from Japan (ebay source), about $120 total. Originally, I figured I would save some money and ordered a $20 special for a pair + s&h. Then I found some posts on classiczcars about their poor fitment, SAE threads (not with the pair I purchased), misaligned locating pins etc. Here are some pictures for comparison. The center bolt is longer on the after market one: The locating pin is way off: The OEM mounts fit like a glove, no issues.

Adding n42 intake. $350 shipped in lower 48?

Just bought a L28et from a car with 90k on it. I saw a video of the car running but it wasn't building boost. But it idled well and tried to rev. Turbo is shot and hitting the housing on compressor and turbine side I took these off last night and have not cleaned them up and thought i would offer them up on here and see if i can get a decent price before I list them on ebay. Paying through Venmo is the best All parts are sold as is. 280zx turbo distributor, distributor shaft, cap and wires. As stated I saw videos of it running but I have not used it. Looks to be in good shape and the cap is newer and the plug wires seem to be pretty high quality and made in USA. $425 OBO Shipped in lower 48 Turbo AFM. Looks to be in ok shape. Has been opened and is missing the cover. I have not put a multi meter on it to test but the car ran to well for it not to work. Comes with the bracket $190 obo Shipped in lower 48 L28et Fuel rail injectors and Fuel pressure regulator. Appear to be stock injectors. I cycled them all with a battery and they sound good and do not sound gummy. Includes injector seals which are in really good serviceable shape. Not cracked that I can see. All pintle caps are present and the FPR holds pressure with my mighty-vac. $200 OBO Shipped in lower 48 Turbo manifold. In really good shape. Just as i took it off. All studs are good and heat shields are present. I believe this is the first time its been off and there was zero exhaust leaks on the turbo or the head side. $275. Plus shipping. I want to calculate this one as its so heavy. Turbo Actuator. Good used actuator. Tested it with my mighty-vac and it holds pressure. $50 OBO shipped in lower 48 J-Pipe Paint is ok but its in good shape. The TB rubber is very pliable. Turbo side is serviceable but stiffer. $80 shipped in lower 48 I have other things ill get listed as i get pictures. Turbo oil pan, sensors and control valves on intake manifold. thermo housings etc. Things i might be convinced to sell. freshly bead blasted N42 intake. Complete oil cooler from block adapter to cooler,

Honestly not sure yet on fittings. I’ve only done caliper swaps, this is the most comprehensive brake system overhaul I’ve done. Gonna see what I’ve got to work with and go from there, wish me luck 😅

Nice placement in your engine bay. It looks like you just ran a positive off the battery terminal (?) to your box and all the accessories are using the chassis for the negative side. It is B+ only. No ground. It connects to the + terminal of the battery. Accessaries draw fused power from the fuse box. Each accessary is grounded to the chassis.

Miles: Nice placement in your engine bay. It looks like you just ran a positive off the battery terminal (?) to your box and all the accessories are using the chassis for the negative side. As most of my accessories (radio, windows and A/C so far) are in the passenger compartment, I was planning to put my box on the passenger side firewall and probably run both positive and negative 10 ga. leads to it.

Luigi: I used a $70 "universal" power window kit that can be obtained on Amazon or eBay. A current Amazon vendor is JDMSPEED. This is quite similar to the SPAL that was marketed some years ago. What I found in my research was that several marketers offer the almost, if not, identical units on these shopping sites. As the units are all made in China - perhaps by the same manufacturer - this kind of makes sense. It's like every corner convenience store selling M&Ms. Earlier this year I started collaborating with Dave Irwin (Zs-ondabrain) to update and expand a thread he created in 2006 on the Classic Zcar Club website www.classiczcars.com). I decided to alter the wiring so that just two switches are used and the controls are mounted on the sides of the center console. The article has kind of stalled out as I went on to do other things on my car but I swear I'll get it done and posted there before year's end. In the meanwhile, here's a photo of the drive unit installed in the left door of my car. The drive unit is on the lower left and the "engagement gear" is on the right. It has plenty of power to work the window mechanism but, my goodness, you absolutely must have the window track alignment perfect or it binds up.

Hopefully you are converting to all SAE / AN brake fittings. It's a real pain to have a mix of metric and SAE. I routed my brake lines inside the cabin to get the brake lines away from heat. I'm running a Wilwood Tandem Master Cylinder (7/8" bore) and use a proportioning valve installed on the drive shaft tunnel.

I have been. And for those searching its nivlac57 on YouTube. I have a 84 maxima wagon and I measurd once when I had my engine out and it was to close to try. I am interested in yhe 5 cylinder though as it would fit under my hood.

Picked this up from local hot rod shop for my 240z SBC 350 project about 13 years ago. Circuits: Electric fan relay Fuel pump Radio and amplifier Power windows Summit Racing/parts store etc probably have this fuse box.

I found it just by digging around online. Wilwood makes the assembly, allows me to run two different sized master cylinders for front and back, and on top of that the horizontal bolt close to the firewall allows me to adjust brake bias between the cylinders, lots of adjustability. It comes with this cable so I can adjust the brake bias from inside the car. Yes, all new brake lines. I bought pre-bent hard lines and some distribution blocks. Once I get the rear suspension off, I’ll replace the lines, then figure out how to attach the cylinders, probably get some flexible stainless steel lines for that.

looks like i have to open my steering column next winter, i think i have play on lower splines, upper bearing might have also something going on. anyone has good link for that kind of operation on fresh memory?

Seppi72? what power window stuff / kit did you use?

I've used these....

That is an interesting master cylinder set-up. I haven't seen that before. I assume that you will be running all new brake lines.

Cut out the indented areas & fabricate new sheetmetal to fill the holes. Personally I like the smooth look. 😎

It's not uncommon. I added a terminal post near the battery for a few things. If I had a bunch I'd probably just install an auxiliary fuse box. Otherwise you have a bunch of inline fuses to take care of. There are many out there but a trip to the salvage yard would probably find one that is weatherproof and high quality. Depends on where you want it mounted. Looks like I'm on the same page as jhm, who replied as I was writing.

It can be confusing when talking about technical areas vs car model areas, but we do have the "Ignition and Electrical" sub-forum here: https://forums.hybridz.org/forum/16-ignition-and-electrical/. Yes, I think it's fairly common to add new circuits/etc to these old cars. I've done it to the last couple of my cars to simplify/improve the electrical capabilities over the stock harness. I've always used off-the-shelf breakers, relays, fuse panels, switches; but there are a bunch of pre-built kits that are available through numerous vendors. I like to use marine hardware if I can find it; as it's typically extra beefy and durable. Good luck with it; and please be sure to post your results once completed!!

There doesn't seem to be an electrical forum on HybridZ so I thought I'd put this in the model-specific one. I am in the process of adding several updated accessories to my original-owner S30. In particular: power windows, Vintage Air A/C system and RetroSound Motor 4 radio with quad speakers. I've already installed Dave Irwin's headlight relay system to take that load off the combo switch. I have a rebuilt 280ZX alternator from MSA to supply power once the Optima red top kicks things off. With all these new accessories, it occurs to me that perhaps I don't want to be chopping into the existing dash harness wires to provide them with power. So I'm thinking about installing positive and negative busbars on the interior firewall that I can hook up to as needed. Is this a wise idea? Has anyone ever done this mod and, if so, what parts did you use and where did you locate them?

Got the front coilovers and the dual master cylinder assembly on today. Still too hot out for working on the car here, I can’t wait until it cools down. A few challenges with each, but got it on right. Was hoping to start tearing down the rear, but I’ll give that a go next weekend.

Nice, I could see building a dart block sometime down the road. Just a cam and twisted wedge heads on the 302 for this build for now.

Has anyone been following the progress of these engines? The aftermarket is starting to really grow for this engine. "divlac57" is the guy who has been spearheading a lot of this Anyone else watching any of this come about??

Just some quick updates, after finishing chassis preparations and dropping off the shell for restoration last month I've been organizing my garage and have finally got things in a reasonable enough state to continue work. For the turbo build, the plan is to refabricate all fluid lines as SS hardlines so I've set the engine/transmission to ensure I get all of the angles for drainage and thermal siphon correct. It's really nice to be doing all of this work fully accessible, but I'm going to attempt to ensure the routing I fabricate can be serviced back in the car as well. Also for the driveline, I saw on IG someone had used the same CD bellhousing from Derek which locked up on their clutch when assembled. So I've put in the OSG twin plate and will check if the bellhousing needs any clearancing for the rotating assembly.