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Some good news and bad news. Good news is, I think I solved my fuel pump issue. I had deceleration fuel cutoff at 95% and it had no way of taking away 5% of fuel, so I think it was just shutting the pump off. I’ll have to keep an eye out, it didn’t happen during my short test drive. Bad news, I think my ARM UEGO wide and is messed up. It never goes to full lean as it should, key on. it goes up, but hovers around 19. Also, when I start the car, it just goes to 0 (see pic). It sometimes jumps up to 3-4, but it sits at 0. TunerStudio won’t calibrate to it either, and just flicks from 15-19 during a drive.

So a bit of an update. The engine is up for sale. Already sold the transmission as well as exhaust/cats I had. Why? Because every time I fit the engine I was faced with the reality that either I needed to change the oil pan, intake, throttle elbow out, and then buy several manifolds to see what fits, or make custom manifolds. I'd resigned to the reality that I'd just have to make manifolds. But I just don't have the time to sit down and hammer that out. It might be a 40 hour job if I could just hunker down and do it, after buying $500 worth of supplies. No big deal right? Except I simply don't get chunks of time like that (currently). I want to just finish a swap and drive the thing. So I was entirely ready to just go LS instead. Over the counter swap parts are available, so it was just budgeting the money and doing it. Selling everything would be the necessary shot in the arm to raise the capitol to just make it happen. ...excpet... ...HOLY T56 PRICES PEOPLE! I kept an eye out for over two months. Facebook marketplace. Craigslist. Ebay. I now know most of the T56/TR6060 ratio sets by heart, and I definitely had some preferences, but I had in my mind what a "good deal" would look like for various sets and nothing was ever close. If I was just tossing money at problems I'd just get a new T56 Magnum and be on my way. But that's $3600, before a flywheel, clutch, master cylinder, slave cylinder, etc. Then I realized that converting a K series wasn't actually as expensive as I thought it was. Started pricing everything out, and realized I could do nearly the entire swap for the price of just a new T56 Magnum. At first I was thinking I'd used the cheap and very plentiful BRZ/FRS transmission, but so many horror stories of them being wrecked. The strange thing is that so many things indicate it should be a strong transmission, and some people drift them (one of the hardest modes of abuse for driveline parts) at 500+hp without issue. I wonder if it's just a shift fork design issue. Who knows. So I shifted and started researching AP1/AP2 transmissions. Kept an eye out, and score! Paid $800. Not 100% known to be good yet, I'll have to do some inspecting before assuming, but the guy was pretty up front about his experience. He was running 700+whp and had been through several transmissions, and this was his third. It held until he did his E30 transmission swap, and then later sold the car. He said when pulled it was still shifting great and not making any noise. It then sat outside for a year (in a bag he claimed) so fingers crossed I'm not replacing bearings or synchros. The bearing prices for this aren't bad. I can get all bearings and orings/seals for under $300 shipped to my door. But the synchros add up. The 1-2 synchro is like $266 on it's own iirc. (comes as a whole assembly with the hub gear, shift ring, etc). But it gets better. The seller was also very strapped for space and trying to see what else he could toss at me, and threw this in for free: The tag was long gone, so it took me a bit to figure out what it is. It's a Precision 6262 with the Gen2 ball bearing cartridge. It has some mild turbine denting, but the housings look unscathed. Bearings have zero play (might be able to measure with a dial indicator, but can't feel it by hand) so I could probably run this as-is. But that said, I'm going to get this swap done NA first for several reasons (cost being one). Once I decide to go turbo, I can just swap in a new wheel (found a rebuild parts supplier with new wheels for $120), and voila a solid turbo pairing for this engine. Speaking of engines, I haven't gotten one yet. I had a line on one, but due to issues with the seller we couldn't meet up. He's about 2 hours from me, so not sure when I'll get the opportunity to reconnect and see if I can get a motor. But I did find this and picked it up locally yesterday: Hard to read, but that says "K to F Adapter". There are a few companies making these, ranging from $240-300 depending on manufacture and reseller, but I picked this one up for $200 and it seems like I'll have to source my own bolts and dowels. I might be able to keep that under $20 so this still feels like a deal (though I'd still have the ship the above new prices, so maybe it's not bad no matter what). I'm tracking all the parts in a spreadsheet (which I normally do anyway) and it's looking like the budget is landing around $3600. Now, there's some hand waiving in that others should be aware of. 1. I'm going to use the existing Megasquirt MS3X box I have. Getting hondata/k-tuner would easily add $600+ to this. 2. I plan to use the OEM exhaust manifold. I simply don't see any good reason not to. I don't care if I'm losing 10 or even 20 horsepower. It's worth it to me to save time and cost to just drive the thing. 3. I already had steel and bushings in stock for doing engine mounts for the 4.6. Would easily add another $50-100 that I'm saving. 4. I have no clue what the driveshaft will cost. The AP1 transmission is a fixed flange, not a sliding splined output, so I'll need to find a shop familiar with making a shaft that can give me that half in of compliance or so necessary. Also, I'll likely need to find a converter flange to go from the AP1 output to a u-joint to cancel out the vibrations from the rear R200 ujoint. As of now I've got $500 for the driveshaft solution, and that could easily go up. 5. I'm also planning to save a few buckets by using 2NRS's K to F intake flange adapter, to use a S2000 intake. The "better" alternative is the Skunk2 Ultra Street manifold which has a reversible plenum. It's $550 and then you're still needing your throttle body, fuel rail, etc. Some of these might be source able or mix-match able with OEM parts, but for $120 I can get an adapter to use a full intake/throttle pull off out of a S2000 and that solves the problem soup to nuts. And considering some people have made well over 250whp NA on the S2000 intake I'm going to say it's "good enough" for me. 6. I'm also not buying into the "use this oil pump, use this water pump, remove balance shafts" internet myth ethos. I understand why people do that, and suggest that. But a lot of people are making changes with very little implications as to the reality of the why. These are $900-1100 motors, all day long. They might go up like B series have, eventually. But for right now, they're still dirt cheap. When people like Richard Holdner go and dyno a completely stock K24A2 with balance shafts up over 8700rpm, 280+hp NA, and 600+hp boosted, you have to wonder where the failures are. And if you go looking, and find one, let me know. I know MotoIQ, 4Pistons, Drag Cartel and other big names all say the same thing. And I'm sure if I was building a 10k motor, I'd also go with a better oil pump, remove the balance shafts, and gain oil capacity as well as ground clearance at the same time. ...or I can just buy a spare motor to store in my garage. So stay tuned. I hope to have an engine in the next few weeks and start mocking things up.

I assumed you were MIGing . My body shop friend recommended to fill with silicon bronze because it takes less heat .

Hi all new to the forum thought I would introduce myself. I'm an old school petrol head, as in the Ford Escort and Vauxhall viva days haha, I was born with oil in my blood the entire family are mechanics, just recently sold my Lexus is200 supercharged car so I'm now car less, hopefully I will be starting a new project soon, I also created a car magazine called stance auto magazine, a place for us all to share our car builds and modified whips, so let me extend an invitation to anyone who wants to share their car build story just drop me a DM or if you have some sik photography you want to share I also have a very popular Facebook page I can share them to for you, I'm always looking of new stuff , can you drop images below in forums, lol sorry been years since I was on a forum

Bought c009 thrans model cb2 and RB32 double plate clutch (os copy) . Fabricated trans adapter and modify flywheel plate in local shop.Bought arp bolts m10x1.25x6mm. I have to keep engine auto flywheel for starter.

Finally took it around for a drive. Wouldn't rev past 1700rpm. Sync losses like crazy. Guess I need to take some logs and spend some time on other forums looking for help. My wideband was working perfectly fine for awhile, then it started sending out a full 5v or more. The AFR on the gauge itself seemed accurate, but the output was just sending 5v constantly. Tried changing grounds, etc.. but no change. I think it's dead. I'll try swapping out for a new one.

I bought this for my wife, literally saved it from the crusher. Well, from being stripped and then crushed. I have an l33 Chevy LS for it. This is her dream car, she promised to do the grunt work while I do the metaphorical heavy lifting. Not my first build, not my first LS swap. Here for the tech info. Located in Vancouver washington. Any other Z owners nearby?

No, Just ER70S-2, works well with the tig and low amperage, so no distortion from overheating or cracking metal like it MIG. On headers I would use silicone bronze to weld the primaries to the flanges.The heat cycling needs the ductility of the silicon bronze, but on a body panel I dont thinkit is necessary unless you were trying to flame weld and minimize warping.

I miss the old days of the forums. I would not call it a skill, but just some practice over the years and figuring out what works, and what not to do, usually the hard way. So dont be afraid to try and practice if you enjoy this sort of thing. Its not great work, but good enough to satify myself. I have a friend who welds, he has talant

Are you fill welding with silicon bronze ?

Hello, Did some work on the radiator, brackets, shielding and some stuff..... Slow progress now.😴 /Christian

Threads like these are what makes HybridZ special. Bravo! How did you develop your welding and metalworking skills?

05-01-2024 UPDATE. I recevied my "new" clock from Ron at Zclocks.com. I paid extra for a quartz movement instead of the old stuff, and I had him remove the green light filter, since my gauges are all lit with a white LED setup. Anyway, I installed it today and then covered the 2 spots on the rollbar with rollbar foam where I had removed a rear brace. I then took it for a short drive, and then went about more little this and that finishing things up. I pulled the door data plate off and the "big" job left is to restore the door jambs on both sides, so I have that to look forward to. Aside from the 17" wheels arriving and setting the suspension height for them, the car is basically done. As usual, I took a few extra pics, just to look at stuff from different angles. Cheers!

Nice job you are doing👍, not close to that. I,m looking at your frame rails and probably going to do something similar, seems to be a good idea to extend them all the way back. /Christian

Modifications to the New Rear View Mirror- After driving the car, I found that the new rear view mirror was vibrating making viewing difficult If, however, I would hold the mirror in the center, the viewing improved greatly. The solution was to provide additional support to the mirror. I would use the original rear view mirror mounting screw holes to mount a additional center bracket. First, a Template of original mirror base (consists of three screw holes)was created. The base mount would be constructed from 16 gauge steel plate. Another 3/4" x4" rectangular piece were created to make the Pivot Arm for the mirror. This plate would welded to a base 2" x 4" which would be epoxied to the back of the mirror. Mirror Mount Note- A 1/4" Pivot Hole was first drilled in the top section of this arm. This Pivot Hole will enlarged after the Mounting Bracket and Mirror Bracket are test mounted together. Then, a felt pen is inserted into the 1/4" Pivot Hole and the Mirror is turned to create its "curving path". This path will used to create the slot that allows the mirror to be adjusted when necessary. Drilling many 1/4" close together then hand filing created the arch path. Note-Arch created by Felt Pen Pic shows Arm and mounting base tack welded together for testing only until alignment is completed. Bracket angle will determined with Two small card board 1" strips- one is simulate the bracket arm and the other to stimulate the bracket on the mirror. pic showing !/4" Pivot hardware(1/4 bolt, washer and wing nuts) Assembled Version of Base Mount The Original Mirror Spacer was not used to allow sufficent thread engagement. Completed Modified Rear View Mirror Left Side View Right Side View NEXT-Roll Bar Installation

Has anyone found a source for the 10 1/2 inch booster?

Awesome, congrats!

The actual bolt spacing is different too. The Jeep has a more narrow bolt spacing. Ive been reading up on some EFI support pages and I guess I need to actually watch the valve open and close to get the total steps correct . Not sure what your total homing steps are

Awesome, thanks. I'm pretty sure I actually already have a poly one that came with my complete bushing kit, so I'll just pop that in at some point.

Here's your Jeep Stepper And a GM Stepper If it's any help this is the one I'm actually running, which looks closer to what Protunerz lists on their site. The one with the black housing I took a screenshot of technically only shows compatibility with V6 engines but I'm pretty sure it's functionally identical, just has the pins facing a different direction?

Yeah, that needs replacing for sure. Think you probably found it! If you don't mind the vibrations, get a poly or plastic one. People have also drilled hockey pucks and used them, if you happen to have one.

It's been awhile. A lot of back and forth with Godzilla to figure out what was going on with my ECU. RPM signal was not coming through. A 10k resistor was the culprit. Got everything hooked back up, configured some base settings and it finally fired up. First time in almost 2yrs. That's exhaust smoke in the picture. I really need to get it turned around so I can run it for longer to tune this thing. It smokes like crazy right now lol. Probably doesn't help that I have flex pipes and random loose clamps holding the exhaust together as well. It runs like shit, and I need to hold the throttle down a bit to keep it going, but it's a start. I can't wait to start digging into tuning and learn this stuff.

Mine just refuses to open sometimes . I’ll try a GM before I go to a AAR

I've compared them side by side and it's important to note that the Jeep stepper won't open as far as the GM one based on its design. On cold starts it won't bypass nearly as much air. I have a GM stepper on my protunerz manifold and after re-pinning for it everything has been much better.

Agreed! I did this about a week ago, no more exhaust rattling on the diff. I've also filled the transmission with AC Delco GM friction-modified synchromesh gear oil, as recommended by the internet. I need to put some hard miles on the car to see if it helps smooth out the shifts a bit, namely, aggressive 4-3 downshifts had been a bit scratchy if not done patiently. I've also installed Keith Franck's W65 jets in place of the W60's. Tractability is now near-perfect, fantastic throttle response with surprisingly good fuel economy. I'm wondering whether this engine is better suited to yet another step up in size to W70 but I'd like to put some more miles on this setup. I'd love to finally fit those new OER's I bought a while back but there's a good chunk of work to do before that happens. Namely, port-matching and pinning the manifold as well as Rebello did with the TWM. With the Webers working quite well, I'm not feeling the most urgent motivation on this... Then there's the adjustable cam gear to install, ensure no valve-piston issues, and go have another tuning session. Step-by-step, I'm getting ever closer to where I've been wanting the car to be!