Brad-ManQ45

After I have used either flapper disk or a roloc disk to clean, I go over the metal with acetone, then spray OSPHO on the metal.

Man, it could be really easy to hate some of you guys - if I could ever get past the jealousy stage!

I bought a Jet Bandsaw for my plate cutting.

I think it would be interesting to dyno an engine that has been set up to run both methanol injection and water injection to see what the differences are. Basic assumptions: At a particular boost level - let's say 20 psi, maximize timing, fuel, and both water and meth, then see what the power and torque curves look like. Reason for wanting to know: I believe that water injection will provide more torque, due to the expansion of the vapor. I believe that water will also keep the valves and combustion chamber cleaner. Please Note: These are just beliefs with no foundation, but would like to have them either proven or disproven.

You might want to do a search for SiliconeBoy's TTLT1 setup...

I wish - but I doubt it could even fly in California.

JTR mounts put the engine too far back in the ZX - you really only need spacer plates.

Unless you are using good quality housings (think Cibie or Hella), I doubt you'll ever be satisfied with H4's. Of course I am talking E code headlights here. I have had Cibie on all cars that had 4x6, 7, 5.25 or 200mm lights on them and have always been impressed with thir control of the light pattern, unlike what cars come with nowadays (non HID).

If you were going to do that, think about an air/water system. That will get the core doing the air cooling as close as possible to the turbo/TB are. You could then use evaporator coils to cool either the radiator portion OR the intercooler portion or both, and possibly utilize other methods to cool also - like NOx, CO2 or dry ice. You would have the ability of having a second radiator to use for the dry ice mounted wherever.

Good news! thanks for the writeup - i think this should be a sticky under FAQs...

I would get some contact cleaner and clean all the contacts for the FI system. When cleaning the contacts at the computer, unplug and replug 5 or 6 times.

Welcome aboard! Awsome cars. Really hope you can make SEZ in March!

I have a Ruger Redhawk .44 Mag that I used to go javalina (pig) hunting with in Texas. I also have a Witness 10mm that I wouldn't hesitate to use - but not at 100 yards - the barrel is just a bit short. Handloads for either scenario. Funny thing about the 10mm Witness, even with hot loads, I can shoot it better than my .45 Witness.

She looks like she's into heavy metal...

Sounds like my Q45. I have no doubt that SAABs were born from Jets - the jets that precede turds. Any way you look at 'em they stink.

ZX gas tank=19.8 gal, LS2=~16 In tank fuel pump = more hassle to replace, and if you aren't aware of it, you shouldn't run the tank below 1/4 full in order to provide enough cooling for the in tank pump (warm climate). This is one of the neat ways that manufacturers use to help dealerships make money on sevice - they don't make much selling cars... Personally, I would use your stock tank, and modify it for bigger fuel lines if necessary, and use a bigger external pump. Let's see now, more capacity, less/easier fab, easier maintenance. Sounds like the ZX tank wins to me...

Caused a few drib - I mean drizzles here too...

I've always liked the Opel GT and the Manta. My brother had a Manta (75) until he totalled it. I think it's a great idea to get one back on the road!

There are a lot of drag cars that have very small high winding engines in heavy cars (class racing) that utilize a heavy flywheel to get the right amount of torque transferred to the wheels off the line. The use of a light flywheel is actually a detriment to these cars. (I'm talking like a 283 in a mid 60's Impala or something bigger, running 4.88 pr higher gears, that spin up to 9 or 10k here. Light cars with big engines definitely don't need a heavy flywheel, though a heavier flywheel will make the car more tractable on the street (think throttle like an on/off switch for a light flywheel and much smoother transitions with heavier wheels.....). For a pure drag car with whatever engine in one of our Z's - go LIGHT!

don't do it.

Generally, it is a poor workman who blames his tools, however, in the case of welders, a good weldeing machine is a lot easier to get a quality weld out of. There are so many variables when welding - heat, wire speed, is the metal properly cleaned, if thick - too thick for a single pass...In short - it is up to the person welding to make a good weld. The MM135 was most assuredly NOT the weak link in that Baja Bug problem. If the actual weld failed, that is a result of bad welding prep or technique. If the metal around the weld failed, but not the weld itself, the it may have gotten too hot or been poor quality metal.

Only ZXT's came w/15" wheels - snowflake or swastica. iron cross = 14"

I think the speed sensor is tied in with talking betty - I recall a post either here or on another forum that once the sensor section was replaced, both his cruise control and Betty worked again....

www.autobod and http://www.autobody101.com/ Both have forums and resources. Take the time to browse A LOT!!!

Thanks for replying guys. I have picked up that some of the imports actually match rpms on some of the cars/SUVs that have the sport shifters that toggle. It is my understanding that the overrun clutches take a beating when downshifting manually. My question was hopefully aimed at tranny experts that can answer whether or not it is possible to do this without harming the tranny. I am hoping that the combination of electronic tranny control and MS will allow manual downshifting with few downSIDES...