Brad-ManQ45

I would get some contact cleaner and clean all the contacts for the FI system. When cleaning the contacts at the computer, unplug and replug 5 or 6 times.

Welcome aboard! Awsome cars. Really hope you can make SEZ in March!

I have a Ruger Redhawk .44 Mag that I used to go javalina (pig) hunting with in Texas. I also have a Witness 10mm that I wouldn't hesitate to use - but not at 100 yards - the barrel is just a bit short. Handloads for either scenario. Funny thing about the 10mm Witness, even with hot loads, I can shoot it better than my .45 Witness.

She looks like she's into heavy metal...

Sounds like my Q45. I have no doubt that SAABs were born from Jets - the jets that precede turds. Any way you look at 'em they stink.

ZX gas tank=19.8 gal, LS2=~16 In tank fuel pump = more hassle to replace, and if you aren't aware of it, you shouldn't run the tank below 1/4 full in order to provide enough cooling for the in tank pump (warm climate). This is one of the neat ways that manufacturers use to help dealerships make money on sevice - they don't make much selling cars... Personally, I would use your stock tank, and modify it for bigger fuel lines if necessary, and use a bigger external pump. Let's see now, more capacity, less/easier fab, easier maintenance. Sounds like the ZX tank wins to me...

Caused a few drib - I mean drizzles here too...

I've always liked the Opel GT and the Manta. My brother had a Manta (75) until he totalled it. I think it's a great idea to get one back on the road!

There are a lot of drag cars that have very small high winding engines in heavy cars (class racing) that utilize a heavy flywheel to get the right amount of torque transferred to the wheels off the line. The use of a light flywheel is actually a detriment to these cars. (I'm talking like a 283 in a mid 60's Impala or something bigger, running 4.88 pr higher gears, that spin up to 9 or 10k here. Light cars with big engines definitely don't need a heavy flywheel, though a heavier flywheel will make the car more tractable on the street (think throttle like an on/off switch for a light flywheel and much smoother transitions with heavier wheels.....). For a pure drag car with whatever engine in one of our Z's - go LIGHT!

don't do it.

Generally, it is a poor workman who blames his tools, however, in the case of welders, a good weldeing machine is a lot easier to get a quality weld out of. There are so many variables when welding - heat, wire speed, is the metal properly cleaned, if thick - too thick for a single pass...In short - it is up to the person welding to make a good weld. The MM135 was most assuredly NOT the weak link in that Baja Bug problem. If the actual weld failed, that is a result of bad welding prep or technique. If the metal around the weld failed, but not the weld itself, the it may have gotten too hot or been poor quality metal.

Only ZXT's came w/15" wheels - snowflake or swastica. iron cross = 14"

I think the speed sensor is tied in with talking betty - I recall a post either here or on another forum that once the sensor section was replaced, both his cruise control and Betty worked again....

www.autobod and http://www.autobody101.com/ Both have forums and resources. Take the time to browse A LOT!!!

Thanks for replying guys. I have picked up that some of the imports actually match rpms on some of the cars/SUVs that have the sport shifters that toggle. It is my understanding that the overrun clutches take a beating when downshifting manually. My question was hopefully aimed at tranny experts that can answer whether or not it is possible to do this without harming the tranny. I am hoping that the combination of electronic tranny control and MS will allow manual downshifting with few downSIDES...

Yes, but you will have to swap out the speed sensor for your cruise control - and I believe it also has something to do with the talking lady...

Congratulations!

This is where I would say that there is no such thing as a dumb question, except that I HAVE heard some dumb questions - like after I got run over by a Lincoln TownCar (leg) when on a motorcycle and someone asked if it hurt.... No joke. Very rarely will anyone on this board deride an honest question, or anyone for asking one - I consider everyone here a class act in that regard. We are all happy to help - even if the help is in the form of "maybe you shouldn't try doing it yourself" - a situation that has sprung up occasionally. I remember one case where someone asked how to remove a carb from a V8 engine - no kidding! I will have to admit that I responded by saying that if he couldn't look at it and see how, he should let/pay someone else do it....Notice that I did not deride him. You didn't even come CLOSE to asking a silly question - glad we could be of help.

This is old news ans been hashed out before. My take: Anyone with a built 383 that says only 370 HP is a liar to start off with, so I wouldn't have trusted a dammm thing they said or did.

I would think a T-66 and an .81 AR turbine with P trim would do nicely... With the size of the engine and torque available, I don't think you need a BB unit at all, and can get a 360 degree thrust bearing journal type turbo and be plenty happy.

The actual plot of air use would look like a stretched or elongated or italicized S instead of rising in a straight (diagonal) line, then horizontally to redline... Basically, it means that surge is not quite as much of a problem with some of the bigger turbos as the diagrams imply, and that when accelerating, the path will be more toward/in the efficiency island. If you have a copy of Hugh MacInnes' TURBOCHARGING, you'll know what I am talking about. Hope this helps...

Seafoam...

Hi guys. A lot of cars out there have either paddle shifters or a shifter position that 'toggles' either up or down one gear if put into a 'gated' position. I have a question about these transmissions: I know for instance that usually, one of the worst things you can do to a transmission is downshift it manually. Have the manufacturers made changes to the transmissions that have the above capabilities, or does the powertrain control module prevent the shock loads from the negative effects of downshifting through the gears (perhaps automatically speeding up the engine to match rpms)? Hoping ya'll can enlighten me. Thanks, Brad

I purchased the 12 speed 20" swing DP from HF on sale for $339 and then had a 20% off coupon. I have been extremely pleased with it. There is no runout and it has a LOT of torque. It's great for drilling holes in square tubing and other metal, which is exactly what I bought it for - I tried using a little bench top for it but that took forever. I have drilled holes in quarter inch and half inch mild steel with no problems and no sweat - except hefting the pieces. I would agree that for a mill or lathe that HF is probably one of the last places to look, but for a drill press, assuming you do your homework, you can get a good buy on something that works well for its' purpose.

I have also heard that the Miller is a great helmet.