Brad-ManQ45

Let this phrase become your mantra when dealing with the insurance company: I don't care what your book says it is worth - you owe me exactly what I HAD before your insured driver hit me - find me another car like mine in the same overall condition - that is what I had, and that is all that I want and will settle for. I doubt very seriously that they won't total it - unibody is really tweaked. Sorry for the accident - I posted a long time ago about the one I was in - and my mantra worked - they repaired it. All my receipts helped.

I don't think a 2004R will handle a built big block torque - assuming you have the traction...

The 4L60E that I have has mounting holes on the transmission case underneath just in front of the tailshaft housing. The Caprice tailshaft housing has the holes on it so the t-mount is further back, allowing more room for the exh pipes to get closer to the tranny.

I doubt very seriously that Nissan would have put injectors whose best spray pattern at a psi the ECU wouldn't allow them to achieve. I have heard the opposite as far as spray patterns and higher fuel pressure go - I heard they get worse and inconsistent. Size your injectors according to the many calculators out there, and leave it at that. The stock injectors are good to ~ 260 HP at stock FP levels.

I am planning to do my mounts something like original - braces on the sides of the tunnel and a bracket from there under the tranny.

Congratulations Mike!

Great minds... If you lived around my wife, you'd understand the practice I've had in boiling things/concepts down to their simplest/fewest word form...MANY years of practice - no native intelligence involved.... Should be sweet!

My first turbo car was an '85 Conquest - it was my first new car also. I bought it in El Pa.so. I also had a built '72 351CJ Mustang Flatback. I used to go to Carlsbad Caverns, Cloudcroft and Ruidoso in New Mexico, driving in the mountains, that Conquest with a turbo would run away from the Mustang. This was power-wise - not handling. At sea level the Mustang had ~350 HP to the wheels, El Paso was ~3900 feet, cloudcroft and Ruidoso ~6 - 7K feet. Ever since, I have been firmly convinced that a turbo car is ideal for mountinous areas. Since I drive all over GA, NC and SC - possibly AL in the future, mountains are in the mix, and gas mileage is definitely a big factor - my business, my money. I have a friend with an '82 2.9L ZXT with SDS and stock 3 spd auto that had to take a trip to New Orleans because his father was dying. He got 28 mpg WITHOUT OVERDRIVE! This with the stock 3.54 rear gear (who can find a lower one nowadays) and an average 65 mph. I figure I can get at least 30 with my 2.8 and overdrive with the same rear gear. A few more things to think about....

I think that you need to really work on priorities and make sure you understand the compromises. If you're only looking for ~ 240 HP, thehn I would suggest the following: I wouldn't bother swapping a ZXT engine in, which you would have to buy - and then have to get another turbo anyway. Instead get the: distributor ~60 used exhaust manifold ~$75 used if you can't get one from JY a built MS kit ~$350 intercooler and piping ~$250 ebay some turbo injectors or maybe some 370cc injectors ~$125 new or cheap from JY Turbo - ~$350 - $400 Put these on the engine you already have, go easy on ignition timing and boost (10psi should do it). You will have your horsepower and off-idle response missing in the ZXT because of the 7.4 CR, have your HP and get 25mpg or better. You will eliminate buying the parts for conversion, SBC engine, and don't forget tranny and driveshaft mods/adapters/brackets. If you were to get a good deal on engine/tranny, you'd come out even as far as parts cost, but labor could get to you and there would be a lot less fabbing with the turbo route. I HAVE an '83ZXT (manual) and can tell you that off boost response down low (in town driving) is rather lackluster. The fact that you will have higher compression with your stock engine will alleviate that and also help spoolup on the turbo and provide better gas mileage than the ZXT engine. You can start off with a regular T3 for your HP goals which will aid in spoolup and provide grunt down low. Yes there are compromises - instead of 12-14MPG around town AT BEST with a carbed 350 you'll get ~ 16-18 mpg. You won't have instantaneous torque like a 350, and you won't be spending as much money either putting it together or in running it in the future. Your remark about using the car as a daily driver has me biased toward fuel efficiency while still meeting your HP goals. If you don't have alot of traffic or you only drive on highway and not much around town, the equation changes a bit. For those who will naysay converting a stock engine to turbo, citing the piston changes Nissan made to the ZXT (thinner top ring and further down the piston), I will say that this will be offset by much more accurate MS fueling and the intercooler. I am currently accumulating all parts for intercooling, MS'ing and painting my ZXT which will be my daily driver (and eventually converted to 4spd auto), but have a '75 project car that is going to be stripped and new floorpans, subchassis connectors, TTSBC (of some kind) - but this won't be my daily driver - gas is getting a bit expensive and it rides rougher. (Both cars have lowering springs and Tokico's) The auto conversion should help with around town driveability/acceleration because of torque multiplication at tip in from idle/steadystate (virtually the same 1st gear as the T5 in the car) and a slightly taller OD for the highway. JMHO

I'd think about cutting B and making it a right angle arm with the ball toward the TB, and then cutting/rewelding A so that it is not on the inside but the outside of its' arm from the TB. Playing a little bit with the length of the arm on B and the length of the shaft between ball ends should eliminate any clearance problems and allow full throttle movement. JMHO...

I'd check out a few sites like ckperformance.com and a couple others that have documented what they do to trannies that they build. A 4l65 planetary would be a good start - I understand that the TransGo valve body kit resolves a lot of ills. Depends on how much power you're making now, and what you intend to do in the future. If you're not gonna do the work yourself, pland on spending >$700 and more likely >$1200 for all the good stuff.

Same here...

qute...

AFAIK, if you're interested in running drag radials, then you have no business running anything over 15" - and I think 14" is better. Face it - you're losing handling capability when you choose DR's, and I'm a no compromise kind of guywhen it comes to performance (too competitive for my own good - haha). I have an extra set of rims that I'll use for drag racing and have my street rims with good tires for handling. Now my daily driver ZXT WILL have compromises - both ride/handling and performance/emissions wise. I'm 52 and don't want to get pounded daily, and I'm willing to sacrifice a bit for the environment - but not much - I'll leave the cat on (it's already 3").

I have some Prime FWD 16x7 wheels on my '83 ZXT, using 1/4" spacers. I'm sure that I have at least 15mm positive offset w/ the spacers and I am ruunning 225/50's in the rear and 205/55's up front with pleanty of clearance. I actually had enough clearance without the spacers, but it was a bit tight. You should be fine.

Very nice Garrett - look forward to seeing you (and everyone else) again. It'll be great seeing you run 10's! Just don't dog it off the line - haha!

Offhand, I can't think of too many car speakers that are NOT 4 ohm, until you start talking about individual drivers. Are you sure a speaker lug isn't grounding out? Have youu tried tapping the cone of one of the speakers when it isn't working and the system is on? SAW CUSTOMER ONCE WHO COMPained about something like you have that had blown speakers. They wouldn't budge sometimes, then they'd let go for a bit, then lock up again - rattled a lot too.

If that had been an RD350....

I have FloFits in my '83ZXT, used the aftermarket brackets, but had to redrill holes in order for seat to fit on passenger side.... Headroom WAS lost....

Ok my story follows: 1975 - the bike is a Yamaha RD 350 - 40 days old with 4700 miles on it (college, intramurals, canyon carving in north GA). I'm on the way to karate class and have a red light at a 5 lane road (2 lanes each direction and a turn lane). Checking out a cute blond in a silver Audi 100 in the lane next to me. I turn back and the light turns green. I look and there is a line of cars stopped in the near lane, I wait a second, and go - A '75 Town Car runs the light in the second lane, which can't be seen because he's coming from downhill. He slams the brakes on 30 feet from the intersection just as I'm starting across his lane. I snap my head to the left see him and say OH SH*T! - I'm gonna die... I had always thought about what to do in situations that could pop up and thiat is probably the only thing that saved me - I cracked the throttle wide open and went limp. Since I was in the habit of always being 'on the pipe' when in an intersectrion, the bike shot forward and started to wheelie, which carried my left leg past his left front fender, and the wheelie got my but OVER the fender. When he hit me, it tore the bike out from under me and spun me around ~90 degrees, my butt hit the ground and his rear tire ran over my left leg/ankle. At no time did my head touch bike, car or ground. There was an off duty PO from the next county on a Kawasaki 400 waiting to make a left hand turn at the stoplight coming the opposite direction (missed the turn signal - had just pulled up), that later told me he thought I was a goner and that he didn't know if he would have done what I did in that circumstance. He noticed my yellow belt which was wrapped around my gi which someone took off my bike after shutting it off (it was stuck at WOT laying in the middle of the intersection) to put under my head. He asked me if it hurt (leg bleeding and ankle all F*cked up) and I said 'I'm trying not to think about it. He comes back with 'that only works when you get to brown belt' and I said 'THANKS A LOT' and we both laughed. Long story short - he showed up for the traffic ticket written on the guy (who was late taking his maid to the busstop). The guy tried to plead not guilty, even though he saw me come into the courtroom (crutches and full length leg cast). When the judge asked if there were any other witnesses (obviously wanting to discount the long haired hippie-type college boy), he about SH*T his pants when a uniformed PO stood up and stated that he saw the whole thing and that he did in fact run the light and cause the accident. Sorry to be so long, but there were a couple of lessons learned here: There is NO WAY you are always going to be able to see what is coming. It's ALWAYS good to be in the powerband when you are crossing an intersection (not a much of a problem now that there aren't many two-strokes around, but still - don't be lugging it). I firmly believe that it PAYS to mentally prepare yourself for the unexpected (not while you're riding of course, but when you're not doing anything - kicking back). Thinking about the best way to handle a situation in advance gives you a bit of an edge. Kind of like when you took typing class and mentally typed out words - that kind of mental excercise helped me become the fastet typer in class and believe me, I started as the slowest, and this was on manual typewriters back in the 60's. And lastly - if you'r gonna ride - either do it in the country or in a group and wear loud colors. Ok I've rambled on long enough...

Several things wrong with this idea: The afm isn't designed to be pressurized. It is now not measuring air at the temperature of outside air, so there is no way that you will have proper A/F ratios. It would probably work ok off boost, but will have problems on boost.

Metallicar: What kind of rims are you using? Do you know the offset or backspacing?

I'm interested in this also because I just bought a set of Cyclone II's - although I am only concerned about the rears - I will put 215/60/14's on the front.

I am well into my 50's now, and had beers when I was 15 - my dad actually took me to a party and got me hammered when I was 16 - he never had to worry about me after that. I have had a brother die of alcohol poisoning, and watch my dad have too much occasionally. That said, I still like an occasional single malt or single barrel bourbon, and every once in a while a Manhattan. But NOTHING satisfies a thirst like an ice cold beer, and I actually prefer MHL (this is all in bottles - can't stand cans - if I am having draft, Killian's works)- I also like MGD and Icehouse, but really do like MHL - I just wish they'd put it in a brown bottle like all beer should be...

You may want to have the cutouts further forward on the sides of the scoop than immediately in front of the backplane to get out of the high pressure area...