Brad-ManQ45

You might want to check your local codes as pertains to wiring. Most localities want to have a 25% margin on the size of wire/breaker vs load. In my case the inspector said for a 19.x max load, I needed a 30 amp circuit. That was wiring to carry 30 amps and a 30 amp breaker. I talked to an inspector for a few circuits I wanted to add going to my garage and in my basement for welding, compressor and a freezer and an extra 120v for the garage, then got a permit. All he had to do was come back when I was ready to hook power up to the receptacles.

I have an MM175 and love it. at max it will pull 19.1 amps, so you should have it on a 30 amp circuit as a minimum. This is of courswe if you are going to use it at full caqoacity, which 1/4" is. You definitely don't want to upgrade the breaker on the 20 amp circuit because more than likely, the wiring is too small to carry the load and will present a fire hazard. I haven'r run across an electrical contractor yet who will massively over-wire a circuit just in case someone might be dumb enough to put in a larger breaker....

Well, since you're talking about SCH 40 pipe, why not just use a stick welder?

I have purchased 4 peak & hold injector boards and all the components - enough to do 2 V8 projects. One set of boards will be for the ZXT. I'll go ahead and assemble all 4 driver circuits so that if one goes down I can switch to another. I was actuaslly thinking that I would go with the 72 lb injectors if I could get them in the 11mm size. Thanks for verifying what I believe JefP's problem is. After the posts about the same size injectors causing no problems, it can only be a lack of resolution in the early 200 ECU causing the problem, unless of course JWT doesn't know what its' doing when programming it - which I doubt.

if it can idle properly, then it is definitely not the injectors causing the problem - it is as I suspected - not enough resolution or the tuner ain't gettin' the 300ZXT maps/settings right. I personally wouldn't even fool with the mass air conversion with the 300 zxt stuff. It's gonna be MS for me!

Saw that last night before I created this thread. I think his problem is the ECU not having enough resolution (300zxt). He hasn't stated what his A/R is at idle. Large iknjectors for the cylinder size present a problem, not only at idle, but off idle as well. If the ECU doesn't have enough resolution, you have problems. What I am trying to determine is at what size does idle become a problem maintaining a 14.7 a/f ratio, and does the injector type have an affect. Once again, from what I've read, the disc type injector is supposed to be the quickest in terms of opening/closing, so I am looking for empiracle evidence to support this. I didn't want to put this in the MS forum, although the MS Extra Hi-res code and MSII should have the resolution to provide a valid platform for such a test.

I'm putting this question in this forum, because I don't think it belongs in the Fuel Delivery forum. I am asking if anyone has experience with the 2 or more of the 3 basic injector types in a high hp/displacement turbo'dengine. From what I have been able to gather, the disk type injector seems to be inclined toward opening/closing faster, therefore making them what would appear to be the injector type of choice for small displacement high boost engines. I am assuming the fuel injecton system has enough resolution to make use of them in order to provide a good idle (not rich). Has anyone tried 550cc injectors of the disk type (Rochester/Lucas) and one of the other pintle or ball type injectors that can share their experience? Thanks

Nice Phil... Maybe after I get a few restaurants opened up I can start work on stripping and painting my '83ZXT, then I will MS and convert to an overdrive automatic... I DID buy a welder and compressor, an dtook welding classes - that was because of my '75 project car though - it needs floorpans and subchassis connectors and patch panels. The '83 needs a couple of rust throughs fixed on the body and battery tray firewall work. Since it will be my daily driver, I'm gonna learn on it first.

ScottiGNZ has already proven that the base of the windshield is higher pressure - he had to close the baqck side of his hood scoop off in order to get his car to cool properly of course, this was an RX7. Datsun also had that (IMO ugly) hood for the Z with the opening ON THE SIDE of the scoop.

How about an early GTV? Always been partial to 'em...

Coat both inside and outside.

After I have used either flapper disk or a roloc disk to clean, I go over the metal with acetone, then spray OSPHO on the metal.

Man, it could be really easy to hate some of you guys - if I could ever get past the jealousy stage!

I bought a Jet Bandsaw for my plate cutting.

I think it would be interesting to dyno an engine that has been set up to run both methanol injection and water injection to see what the differences are. Basic assumptions: At a particular boost level - let's say 20 psi, maximize timing, fuel, and both water and meth, then see what the power and torque curves look like. Reason for wanting to know: I believe that water injection will provide more torque, due to the expansion of the vapor. I believe that water will also keep the valves and combustion chamber cleaner. Please Note: These are just beliefs with no foundation, but would like to have them either proven or disproven.

You might want to do a search for SiliconeBoy's TTLT1 setup...

I wish - but I doubt it could even fly in California.

JTR mounts put the engine too far back in the ZX - you really only need spacer plates.

Unless you are using good quality housings (think Cibie or Hella), I doubt you'll ever be satisfied with H4's. Of course I am talking E code headlights here. I have had Cibie on all cars that had 4x6, 7, 5.25 or 200mm lights on them and have always been impressed with thir control of the light pattern, unlike what cars come with nowadays (non HID).

If you were going to do that, think about an air/water system. That will get the core doing the air cooling as close as possible to the turbo/TB are. You could then use evaporator coils to cool either the radiator portion OR the intercooler portion or both, and possibly utilize other methods to cool also - like NOx, CO2 or dry ice. You would have the ability of having a second radiator to use for the dry ice mounted wherever.

Good news! thanks for the writeup - i think this should be a sticky under FAQs...

I would get some contact cleaner and clean all the contacts for the FI system. When cleaning the contacts at the computer, unplug and replug 5 or 6 times.

Welcome aboard! Awsome cars. Really hope you can make SEZ in March!

I have a Ruger Redhawk .44 Mag that I used to go javalina (pig) hunting with in Texas. I also have a Witness 10mm that I wouldn't hesitate to use - but not at 100 yards - the barrel is just a bit short. Handloads for either scenario. Funny thing about the 10mm Witness, even with hot loads, I can shoot it better than my .45 Witness.

She looks like she's into heavy metal...