Brad-ManQ45

Compiments from cognoscenti are always nice - congrats!

Glad to hear that it went well - hope you recover quickly!

Actually, MSnS_Extra can do Mass Air...

I like my Swiss K-31.

Man Pete, I wouldn't wish that on anyone. Hope it works out ok. I myself have had a bad back since a truck rear-ended and totalled my ESIR Starion. One bit of advice I wsill give to anyone is NOT to have seats in their car with a PLATE for lumbar adjustment....

No replacement is made for the boot between AFM and Turbo, and this part is NLA from Nissan. The other hoses can be replaced with the appropriate size silicone hose. The lack of AFM to turbo boot is a good reason to go aftermarket EFI and speed density - eliminating the need for that boot. I will be doing exactly that toward the end of summer.

You may want to give some duration specs for the cam too....as well as other engine specs - induction for instance.

So you gonna be ready for SEZ7? Hope so.

There are rust removers, converters and coatings that lock to the rust and prevent O2 from getting to the metal the rust is on. The later category was developed during WWII. Removers, such as navel jelly have to be rinsed and then quickly coated with something- the problem being in enclosed areas, getting to it. Ospho and PickleX - are converters - they actually combine with the rust ant turn them into something that can't rust. When welding, I alsways coat my steel with ospho before welding - it takes care of any rust, and falls in the converter category. If I had my car on a rotisserie and wanter to do say - the voids in windshield and cowl, I would use Ospho, dumping it in and then rolling the car around a few times (sealing all outlets of course), then try and spray something like Zero Rust into those voids as best I could. I will be taking my own advice in my own project '75. The reason for using ospho is that it is much cheaper than PickleX and to insure a good coatingI'll have to use a bit of it to slosh around in there.

dsommer: What size Dunlops do you run? That might help the rest of us to know...

That is a 3.5" speaker 4 ohms, and you have to take the dash off to get to it. If the speaker sounds good playing music, then more than likely the Voice module needs to be replace. Not discounting the idea that the wires may be messed up a bit, just saying if your other wires have held up, it's probably the op-amp in the voice module that is fried,

thehelix112: That is a great utility - if I had all the information to use in it. I didn't say that the turbo CR was 8.3 - I said both the NA and turbo heads had the same cc's and that the NA had flat tops and an 8.3:1 compression ratio. Doing the quick math there is a 9cc difference in chamber volume, not sure about piston dish differences. I have an '83ZXT and am well aware of the low 7.4 CR - bane of my existence in traffic If indeed his dish is the same, then he would be the same as the ZXT. I guess I would want to ask if he is going to go to a T3/T4 turbo before answering what compression hje wants to run, also how much booast and HP goals. With a stock turbo, I'd stay at 7.4. anyway and not go higher. A larger compressor section will reduce heat tremendously and allow closer to his current CR with saftey at the same boost levels.

Your combustion chamber is 44.6cc's on the N47 engine. The P90 (and P79) combustion chamber is 53.6cc's You're welcome to do the math, but with the stock pistons, I believe you would be well below 7.4:1 with your stock pistons.... The NA ZX has flat top pistons and an 8.3:1 CR, and the turbo has a small dish...

I'm not an expert, but in '94 I put the current T3/T4OB which has .70 AR compressor and S3 Trim. I also had the turbine section clipped 11 degrees. I starts building boost at 2400 rpm and comes on harder. I perceived no change in onset of boost, jujst that it built faster and harder. The greater radius of the compressor wheel will undoubtedly cause spool to be sooner than stock if you leave the exhaust alone. Tis falls in line with what "Sport Turbos" did when introduced - keep stock boost onset but come on harder through the use of a larger compressor and a slightly freer flowing turbine section - best of both world. In your case, you are only changing the compressor section, so you'll probably boost sooner and harder. I would have the turbo balanced though. Also of concern is what appears to be the AR of the compressor - you said it had .60 on the housing - this may be a bit small.

I don't get it - with one less car (Trooper) and all the Z's that you already had, getting another is a problem HOW? Can't be space - have the same # of cars as before after your dad finds and buys a Z. Why would you have to get rid of the NA your sister is driving and let your sister dirve the ZXT? I turtned over a finely tuned well running/looking car to my sister and 1 year later it was ready for the junkpile....

I'm thinking the VB921's. There is a possibility thatr I will use a Volvo ignitor that has 3 channels to drive 3 coilpaks - p/n: 0 227 100 203. This is also under investigation. I have to wait, because I want to use MSII on my turbo, and they don't have the wasted spark code in yet - but it appears to be coming. I want the MSII because later on I will be taking out the T5 and putting in an automatic (daily driving around Atlanta sucks with a manual, and I intend for this to be a daily driver. Megashift is intended here. My wife's work is relocating further away and I want to keep the miles off my Q45a that she is driving right now. I'll let her use the Town Car I am driving now, or maybe she'd rather drive the Z!

Since I have an '83 and don't know how the 81's were mounted, I intend to drill into the dampner and epoxy the magnets in. Numerous SDS users have gone this route and don't have problems. By putting 12 magnets around the pulley, one reversed, I will duplicate a 12-1 missing tooth wheel and be able to use the MS standard code. Seeing what others have done to mount a 36-1 wheel, I would have to lose a pulley which I am not ready to do - nor go with a serpentine belt system. By using magnets, I don't have to deal with a VR conditioning circuit either.

IMHO, the Buick 455 was the best of the 455's.

congrats! lookin' good so far.

It's easy to believe the long time for a BB turbo to finish spinning down - after all, it spins UP quicker... I can still read the advisory info on the back of my '83ZXT's sunvisor recommending idling for 3 minutes before shutting down. Nosw that was in part because the stock turbo was cooled only by oil. Since I now have a water-cooled center section, I only idle for a short time before shutting down unless I had a recent burst of fun... The add-on device is known as an oil accumulator, and anytime the oil pressure drops below a certain point it releases oil into the oiling system. Trying to remember some trade names.... AccuSump?

The seal for the windshield does indeed overlap the headliner trim. I just took mine out on my '75

Thanks guys: I had already been to those pages and figured out that I could have one magnet reversed (sensor wiring too) but didn't get the 2nd trigger part. The other option is simply using 5 magnets with 60 degrees between each, and two with 120 degrees between them. This will enable me to use the wheel decoder and avoid the neccesity of the 2nd trigger, which I don't think MSII will have in the near future. Yes, I said MSII - I've been paying attention to the MS forums and fairly quickly there will be support for most of what I at least am looking for, which will make me feel better about using huge injectors. Thanks again.

Please consider this as a request for enlightenment, and possibly a new avenue for those of us who don't wish to use EDIS as their means for ignition control, if only because of the trigger wheel needed. SDS does it all with flying magnets and a hall sensor without a distributor, so MSnS_E should be able to also. I have been poring through the MSefi forums and MSnS_E sites trying to figure out if it is at all possible to do wasted spark with MSnS_E with flying magnets on the dampner and hall sensor, using 3 coil paks and 3 ignitors. Since I am not electronically inclined, pardon my use of laymans/possibly incorrect terms and probable misunderstanding of some basic concepts. My first concern is that unlike a 36-1 or 60-2 wheel, which has its' own indexing, how to tell MS which set of cylinders to fire when. If this can in fact be done with only the three magnets (as SDS does), great and the question is - HOW? If there has to be an index signal of some sort, my thought was to mount another sensor that would provide a signal at the same time as the magnet for the #1 cylinder pair would and feed that to MS somehow. I havd no intention of giving up A/C or power steering on my '83ZXT, and really don't want to spend $500+ dollars on an aftermarket dampner/pulley set to allow the use of EDIS - or even the 36-1 or 60-2 wheels in order to go wasted spark. I havde searched through this forum and the MSEFI forum and haven't gotten very far, possibly due to mky aged brain. Any thoughts and illumination would be greatly appreciated.

73TPIZ: When I was taking welding classes, I started with O/A, then stick then MIG. When I got to MIG, we actually started with flux core, and the instructor actually brought out some tips that he had done what I recommended to do after all of us were having the same problem. I was merely passing on information I got from my instructor. He explained that the tip got so hot (with flux core) it expanded and the hole shrunk. Not meaning to denigrate your advice, but any time I can avoid contaminating a weld with something not designed for welding purposes, I'm all for it - wheather there is an issue or not - the less of anything not metal the better - maybe it will float out and maybe it won't. I certainly did not intend to offend as you have. If you're so insecure that you were offended by the way I said what I said, you must be a real piece of work.

I bought a MM175, then ran a 220/240V circuit to power my air compressor in the basement and the welder in the garage. It was a no brainer for me - I was going to have to run a circuit for the compressor. I will say that the 175 handled the 1/4" and 3/16" tubing I made my rotisserie out of with no problems. I say go w/the 175 class machine and get a long extension cord.