Brad-ManQ45

When I built my rotisserie, I used 3/4ths inch MDF for a 4X8 foot table that I could collapse by myself and lean against the wall. I have one of the magnetized grounding clamps that worked fine for me. Space was a big issue. Now I have a table that is belly button high to use anytime I need one.

They are a lot easier to climb into bed with monetarily too!

Glad to hear you're OK and car undamaged.

Hartzpad: Is that a Witness I see? I've got a couple. 10mm FS Blue and .45 FS WF. Love 'em! I'm too busy to take a picture...In addition: 2 Ruger 22 Autos Beretta .32ACP Ruger Redhawk .44 Mag K-31 Swiss S&W 12 ga. Auto CZ-52 Bulgie Makarov Winchester Golden Spike Commemorative

I have an R200 (3.54) you can have for $50 (what I paid for it). I live in Marietta. I originally got it from another member on the board, but now have decided to do an R230 swap. I also have the moustache bar and 280ZXT shafts....

You arenow considered a dangerous polluter...

Nice!

Sounds like your front mount bolt is shot. That would definitely be the source of a clunk. Most diffs, if they are bad WHINE or ROAR at you - kind of sounds like a harmonic at speed.

Sorry I wasn't clear - Zcar Atlanta is the pits. I've heard nothing but good things about E Radatz - he's just 3 or 4 miles from me. After dealing with Z Car 3 times, I finally have had it with them. The made me waste several trips due to their mistakes and bad attitudes. I gladly deal with Roger at Z Barn and pay shipping and no sales tax, and don't have to worry about being jerked around.

Just a quick observation here: I took out the windshield from my 280Z and laid it on the 280ZX. It is a bit taller (good, because there is more distance in this application, but is about 3-4 inches wider. The base looks basically the same, meaning the curve looks like it would fit well. Top also. Just in case the Speed Glass is illegal on the street...I'm looking for options, cause this mod is Biatchin'.

How did the mediation go?

I can positively state that I hate the rear calipers on my '83ZXT - gone bad twice in less than 40K.

Personally, I went w/a water-coolded center section when I had to replace mine. Added Insurance.

Good Luck man....

Yeah - can't find it...

Guys: I have seen this in person, and those taillights are HUGE! A great deal of work went into it, and yes, not perfect, but it looks DAMN GOOD!

The Armada has an R230. The 3.15's were available at one time for the R200. I will be installing an R230 in the '75 V8 Project, and will be using the 2.9x gears with a 4L60E tranny.

A number of people have used the Camaro/Astro V6 radiator with good results, but that was with good shrouding. The latest radiator from JTR is even thicker. With only 300 RWHP, I don't think you would have a problem. I will be using one of these for my swap.

Whew! For a minute I thought you were seriously missing a girlfriend...

I personally will never do business with Z Car Atlanta again....Roger has gotten all of my business for used parts in the past 5 years.

Looks like it belongs there...nice!

Kewl that you are able to eliminate the EGR as a problem. Had a friend that had an idling problem and this was it. Didn't mean to harp (if that's what it sounded like), and didn't have all the info from your last post, so I decided to explain in detail, not knowing your level of expertise, and to help anyone else in later searches. From what you're saying it acts like (rich at all rpm's), sounds like it could be the CHT sensor....

I did my due diligence prior to purchasing a MillerMatic 175. I will be doing floor pans and body panels, as well as subchassis connectors. I have already built a rotisserie, pics posted and forum threads about this project - do a search if you wish. I also took two courses at a local VoTech. The best bang for the buck out there in my opinion is the Hobart 140 or 180, which weren't available when I got my welder. I think I would still get the Miller today, but it would be a tough call - I just like the infinite adjustability of voltage.

Pete: THOUGHT I had seen posts by you on MSEFI forums... Can't fault you for wanting to do fuel first, but if ignition is a problem, I probably would just bite the bullet and just ahead with EDIS instead of spending another $150 or more on getting it going with a distributor. I'm sure there are plenty of people out there that you could get decent maps from as a good starting point for the ignition. From what I can see, it will be a little back and forth between fuel and ignition for the fine tuning anyway. The LC-1 will really help here.

I would not unplug the EGR, I would use a plate of some sort to block off the exhaust from entering the intake manifold. Someone did that to my '83 ZXT with a piece of tin can top under the gasket. Probably when I had the T3/T4 and exhaust added. They said they had some 'tricks' to get more power.... Simply removing the vacuum from it won't tell you anything. Remember, I am talking about the EGR valve sticking open causing a rough idle here. If you block it off totally (not messing with vacuum lines), then you have completely eliminated it as a problem. Up to you to leave it that way...