Brad-ManQ45

Others more knowledgable will chime in I'm, sure, but given your directions, I would only get rid of the red coats. The gray may be primer/sealer over the brownish etching primer. I would question why not taking it down to bare metal and re-priming - once the top coat is gone the primer/sealer and etching primer alone will not protect from rust....

Good news! Can't wait 'til you get it dialed in - I will probably wait for UMS, but your settings should be of geat assistance, assuming that you will share this knowledge also....

Lookin' GOOOD!

That's it w/o the details for the Camaro slave cylinder modification in the ?JTR manual. 1/8" NPT, thgen use3/16" (-3) hose 24" long, 1/8" NPT to -3 hose adapter, 1/8" pipe coupler and a 1/8" pipe nipple 1&1/2" long... The rest of the instructions weredisassembling and hacking the plastic housing to about 1/8" taller than the bleed screw boss........

I installed the HF air compressor auto-drain kit and had a hell of a time working with it, only to have the nylon 250PSI tubing keep popping off of the cheap t-fitting they include in the kit. Not only that, but the tubing actually started melting. I went to the local hydraulics shop and got the 250 psi nylon air hose for truck brakes, which is reinforced w/fiberglass, and this hose is MUCH easier to work with - the wall of the tubing is thinner. I also got a decent T-fitting to replace the HF junk one that had a total of 4 pieces - the T itself and the three nuts. The new one has 7 pieces (3 ferrules), and works like all the other plumbing fittings I have worked with in the past. The existing hose on the compressor for the pressure valve is about as thick-walled as the HF tubing was, but with a little perseverence, a small open-end wrench and some gooseneck pliers, I was finally able to get the hose on the integral tube support and the ferrule down far enough to start the nut. Once the original line was connected to the tee at both ends, the new tubing worked great - no problem at all on the new fitting and hand tighten onto the integtrated tube stiffener and clamp down with the nut on the fitting down at the auto-drain valve which I did not change. I used the compressor today 5 times more than what had caused the previous tube to part ways with the old fitting and start melting with no problems. To anyone out there that has troubles - try just the tubing first - that was 90% of all of my frustration in the original install. I don't regret getting the better T-Fitting, but it probably wasn't necessary - I just did not want to make two trips - besides, I feel a lot more comfortable with a ferrule in there.

'96 Town Car '94 Q45a '83 ZXT Running - needs paint '75 About to go on rotisserie The prior thread was running cylinders - included mowers and other internal combustion engines besides cars... What I've had: 1960 Olds Dynamic 88 1970 VW Bug 1972 Mustang 351CJ 1972 Capri 2600 1975 Town Car 1978 LTD 1985 Conquest 1987 Galant 1987 Starion ESIR

Actually, for a 7" rim with 0 offset ypu would have 4" backspace. You have to add ~1" to the advertised rim width to get the total width... I/m not good w/fractions, so forgive me for the ~/.13" difference.

With +32mm offset your backspacing (on 7" wide wheels - which are actually 8" - 1/2" for each bead) would be 5.13". 4" would be the backspacing for 0 offset.

MML has 13" brakes for the z31 hubs... Personally, I would rather have a 5 lug hub the correct/stock offset...

I think you mean Alabama. Don't solder - either braze or weld it on.

Excuse me, but doesn't the fact that you can go out and buy SS brake lines indicate that these are available? Same size as used on Toyota I believe...

Remove the combination gauge cluster and you can get to it...

kewl - a relatively simple fix. Glad you decided to keep it...

kewl=nice buy...

I did mine w/dash on...

Glad you're ready to fix it, hope it goes well. I must have missed your post on the other site about the MR2. I'm just glad your son wasn't hurt.

This may sound silly, but check the water pump. I had a lot of your symptoms just before mine went south...

Good news on keeping it. If it was a bolt - go ARP studs...

And that R180 ain't gonna last...

DON'T SELL IT! (sorry I yelled)

Check out this thead at zcar.com: http://www.zcar.com/forums/read.php?f=1&i=441532&t=441532

My 75 has zx rims and 215/60/15 tires on it with TMC lowering springa and have no problems. I'd be willing to bet his springs are tired and sag. 205/65/15 and 225/60/15 ~same diameter depending on whose tire. Width definitely less w/205. Check out this link: http://zccw.org/Tech/Wheels/WheelSize.html I know he was talking an early model and not a ZX, just threw that info in - kind of wondered why he had 65 series tires...

Now that that's out of the way, the 280 ZXT does have a vacuum pump, although what capacity is I don't know...

205/60/15 are stock on a ZXT. 225/60/15's work w/no probs. You are OK.

VVVVERRRRRRYYY NIIIIICCCCE!