Brad-ManQ45

I heard that if you have that scoop, you have to have the chicken that goes with it...

For the ZX, you sould only have to make the mount like the spacers JTR uses with the additional width of the setback plate.

For the engine, you only need the spacers made that are th width of the spacers in the JTR manual + the width of the setback plates. Not sure about tranny mount....

Forget TBI - now look at 1 or 2 posts on this same subject within the past 2 days...

You should be able to hear it running after you shut off the engine...

To my knowledge both MSA and VB carry the urethane type (made by XENON). They only make two models - one with brake ducts, one without. Yes, I reinforced mine w/aluminum to prevent distortion at speed. I got mine from JC Whitney back in '93 for ~$120....

Hey Georgia Flash 75V8 - I'm not that far away from you. There is another member in Smyrna that is about to put a turbo L6 in his 240 that I met in Dec. - 240hybrid, here's his website: http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/449966 He rewired his with a whole 280ZX harness... I pretty much like to do things myself, but am always willing to help someone else...

Well if you're gonna get picky and include cars that weren't sold in the U.S.... :malebitchslap:

I personally don't believe in the need for a turbo timer, as long as the center section is water-cooled. When my ZXT needed a new center, I got a water cooled one, and at the same time had an S3 trim compressor put on it and the turbine clipped. A simple h-pipe and some hose and I was in business again...

Excellent news! My congratulations.

I'd like to chime in here and say that one of the reasons you said you wanted the T5 instead of T56 was 1st gear ratio. A couple of later posts stated T56= 2.66 and T5(yours)=2.95. Isn't that a step in the wrong direction? Can they tighten the ratios for the gears up, say startbw/2.33 and modify 2-4?

Do the Z31 seats have the lumbar plate or an air bladder. I had an '85 Conquest and got rear-ended and the plate type of lubar support did a number on my lower back. I personally will NEVER have a seat with this type of lumbar support again...

JSK makes their OWN hub for the wilwood brakes. I am assuming with the stock dimensions for offset. The 300ZX hubs move the face the wheels bolt onto out ~30mm IIRC... Personally, I would like a replacement 5 lug hub with the stock dimensions, as I'm not sure there is enough meat on the stock hubs to redrill for 5 lug. RossC, would you care to comment here?

Yes, the ones that come straight down can properly be referred to as Aid Dams. The ones that slant forward are a derivative of a spoiler. The spoiler type will direct more air into the engine bay through the radiator openeing than the air dam. For top speed purposes the air dam is what you want. For everyday use and not speeding, I prefer the urethane spoiler type assenbly that replaces the valence parts.

If you're talking straight coil, I've had good luck with the Jacob's coil...

My brother and I did a ground-up on a '66 1600 roadster (short windshield) and when we rebuilt the engine used the crank and pistons from a 2000, put in a 5 speed tranny and 4:11 rear gear. 2 months after he had it on the road, some bimbo in a Nova rear-ended him and totalled the car and screwed his back up... The thing would GET IT! Another friend has a 4-door 510 - (the ONLY one to get IMHO) and is putting a 240SX engine in it and will turbo it. Love both types of cars.

After college I sold and installed home and car stereo, working my up through the chain of stores to General Manager. I have NEVER been impressed with BOSE - starting with the (in)famous 901 - 9 6" drivers that were supposed to cover the full range of sound? My ZXT has a Sony CD preamp, Hafler 100w/ch amp driving ADS speakers in custom enclosures on the front door, and RF Punch 45 driving 6.5" Pioneer co-axes in the stock location and an RF Punch 100 driving a Kicker Competion 12" in a 1.75 cu. ft. box. More than loud enough for me on the expressway with the t-tops off and accurate. My wife drives the Q45 (w/BOSE) and I just keep it loud enough for background music, because anything she has to say is FAR more important than anything I could be listening to... I have left the Town car stock with the CD system that comes in the signature series as an upgrade. I have NO IDEA what I'll wind up with in the '75 once it is on the road...

Can't see it...

Biggest reason I can think of is that with it before the turbo, the turbo will slow down too much when you close the throttle. With a CBPV (Compressor ByPass Valve) and the TB after the turbo, the air stacked up after a run and closiing the throttle gets re-routed to in front of the turbo, keeping it spinning. You would lose that and the turbo would slow much more. Plus, I would suspect that throttle response would not be as crisp on initial tip-in.

This is interesting...

Nothing a grinder and a little bodywork couldn't cure...

If you have the caveat "normally aspirated" as part of your statement, I will have to agree that that would be one peaky engine on the street, and you probably have to use the ~4:11 rear gear - rigt. Plenty of turbo motors out the w/350+ in them reliable as hell, once you get rid of the stock FI computer...

European Springs?

On my '83 ZXT, if I idle for 10 minutes, the car will shut off, and I have to wait 20-30 mins to sart up again. Some people say this may be the coil. Your intercooler probably doesn't have anything to do with the fact that this is happening. I am going to replace my coil and see if this solves the problem....

The switch you are referring to was for manual AC systems. I am willing to bet that you have a vacuum leak - the #1 cause of incorrect airflow in both manual and Auto systems. Of course with the auto system you have a lot more hoses...I ought to konw, I just converted form auto to manual when I did the digital to analog and swapped wiring harnesses - not much bucks to make the change and the dash was off, so avoided probs. This even though I have less than 30K on a new contol unit for the auto. I would first check in the engine compartment at the hoses on the vacuum tank. 30 years of high heat/oxidation had mine in poor shape and one fell right off. If you have the dash out you can check the vacuum at each of the servos controlling air flow to determine if any of these are a problem - even without the dash out - just the lower dash you can do this. You can also bypass the control and take vacuum straight to the servos to make sure they work. If you connect the straight vacuum line to a servo and it doesn't move what it is supposed to, you have a problem. Let us know what you find out...