Brad-ManQ45

FWIW - not much I'm sure - I will have to disagree with some of you who say mig can't look as good as tig. I have examples in my garage from the class I took(T, butt and lap) that look like the "stack of dimes". I WILL agree that the bead will tend to be somewhat bigger. Having control over both current and wirespeed helps. I personally prefer to pull when welding flat and go from left to right. It's a little harder to see where you're going, but the benefits of the better view of the puddle outweigh this. As I will be welding on a rotisserie, I will be flat as much as possible. When I finally get a digital camera, I'll take some pictures.... I chose MIG because I will never be welding thin aluminum - a trailer mayber, but mostly body panels and tubing. I started having a blast in class when my welds started looking decent consistently - getting the settings on the machine right was a BIG factor.

I like the Ford Heavy Duty brake fluid. Brake Fluid Thread

From an Aerodynamics standpoint, I would think you are better off using FWD wheels and adapters. (Only a factor for those with the need AND $$$$ to pay for the tickets) Any thoughts here?

Verrrry Nice! Someday...

NICE Frank! What yellow is that?

The flange is the only thing that needs to change for T/3 or T/4 Turbine. This would allow the T/3 guys to go to external wastegate if they want - or just block off the wastegate port until they ARE ready to. (a cheap .02) Brad

Try Crower.com. They have engine kits w/crank/rods/pistons/pins and bearings. I'm SURE they'd do right by you. I'm probably going this route myself. Brad

My paint store guy said use DP48 (White primer), so the primer-surfacer, then go back over it w/DP48 to lock in the filler coat. Does this sound ok? RacerX - any comments from the guru?

kewl Mike! I'm not ready yet, but will be a customer in the future... Rotisserie, body work, suspension back on and then brakes!

I believe I would have to side w/JamieT on this. Only one small modificaton - make sure the raised portion will clear the Stealth Ram if possible. Now I know what you may be thinking, and I'm not sure it can be done because I don't HAVE one, and don't even HAVE an engine yet, but I'll BUY one and let it be used for measuring. Possibly keep the same PROPORTIONS of the raised part of the hood, but BIGGER to clear. It would have to be a bit wider (how much?) and a bit taller (how much?)... I like a sleeper look also - although I may wind up putting some vents in later - like MSA's hood for getting air out from under the hood. In "just eyeballing" the Stealth Ram, It doesn't look like it would be much taller than a high rise dual-plane w/3" aircleaner, but maybe I'm wrong...Have been before, will be again. Opinions????

I contacted Dan to get one and he believes he has one left... I hope so. I'm gonna make SURE I soak the HELL out of everything SEVERAL times w/penetrating oil before I try this...

According to my Chilton's manual ('70 to '86), '75 & up driveshaft universals cannot be replaced. My Clymer's for the 280 ZX's says the same thing about these driveshafts.

I have always maintained that the engine was the last part of the car to be done in my project. It will be as, if not more expensive that all the rest put together. The % of stock parts on the car will be relatively small...

Although I had a '72 Mustang CJ for 14 years, I always liked the looks of the '70 and '71 Challengers. Later AMX's were distinctive too.

I had a '72 351 CJ - Q code - same as the 428 CJ's. This was the prettiest/baddest small block engine Ford made (the Cleveland had the water crossover cast into the block and just used a plate to cover the timing chain - real clean, and the aluminum valve covers - like used on the Boss 302's capperd it off well). Virtually the same weight as a 351W. I never lacked for torque in my Mustang - even after installing a Torker intake and a 700 DP. My brother-inlaw had a '72 454 'Vette and (before I did anything to the engine) I'd take him to 100, where he started to pull up on me (he had a 3.08 and I had a 3.25 rear gear). A great combo would be a 351 block and the Cleveland heads - the oiling system is much better. Minor mods to head gaskets and possibly drill a few holes and you could be screamin'. Mounts are same as 289/302 for the Cleveland. I I had one or could get one cheap I'd certainly do it! The one problem, which could be corrected w/restrictors was the oiling system - too much went to cam.

3" would be too big for an NA car - would probably resonate like all get-out. A lot of NA people prefer 2.25" - not much HP loss, better low end and much quieter. Do you HAVE to put one on now?

I had a '75 RD350 - 40 days & 4700 miles until a Lincoln Towncar ran a redlight... Fun bike!

Diesel turbo's area no-go for a gasoline engine. Most parts too heavy. Specs are outside the range for most engines.

last year for fuel injection on the 327 was '65...

SSSSSSOOOOOOOOOOOO CLOSE! I do my best to make a sound like a horse but my wife SWEARS it sounds like a JackAss! Brad

It's been too long since I was at a race, but Bob Tullius' 12 Cyl Jag XKE annihilating B Production 'vettes at the Champion Spark Plug Roadracing Classic in the 70's at Road Atlanta was my idea of heaven...

Sorry I didn't open this post sooner, and sorry about the baby. We've had our share of problems too - leukemia (my brother didn't make it) and another brother gone. Appears as though she's a fighter - attitude counts! I will be thinking about ya'll... Brad

I have an '83 ZXT 5 speed. Anything that fits a Mustang will work. Hurst comes to mind. If youre not turbo'd why the T5 when the later (280 ZX na) 5 speed has better ratios and smoothness?

Congrats James! I know you're gonna love it... Keep us appraised of the progress...

I just took off the mounts themselves, but got hasty and ripped into the "stiffening bracket in a couple of places. I will be putting in a 4l80E and don't know if I will need to remove this or not....