AK-Z

Yeah check the CAS to see if oil some how leaked inside. Happend with the KA that I have. even says to check that in the service manual. Does it flash an error code? Does JDM engines even have OBD?

Stony told me a trick to getting the glass in when I was showing him the glass that I was going to trade him. Not sure if I got all of it but this is what I think he said. You assemble sealls on the glass. wrap string around on the outer groove of the weather stripping, so the ends are on the bottom. Then put vasilineon the weather strip. Put the windsheild in place withthe bottom on the "flange" or catch or what ever you call it and lean it up up against the opening so its being held up (or down) by its own weight. Pull the string and gently push againt the glass to get it into place. I think thats how he explained it to me. Might want to ask him to be sure.

VERY NICE. Some how I get the impression of Darth Vader meets Knight Rider. very cool.

And there is another one in the backround:shock:

When I first saw that pic, it freaked me out for a second. I like tarantulas because if they fall from about 4 feet , they goes splat under there own weight. Just find a shovel and give it a little flick and watch it go like a water balloon:mrgreen:.

Where I help out, we flow jet 2124 alluminum all the time. for the parts that we weld. sometime the plate warps and they usually send it out to be cryo treated, if its an even warpage. they weigh the plate that needs to evened and heat the oven up to (I think it was) 700 degrees. and just set it to that longer than usual and then run to process at 400 degrees to -125 twice to bring the temper back to t351. Don't have first hand experience, just what I've been told while I've been helping out there. ANd the phrase "even out the metallergy," was reworded in my second post. And how come when you responed to something I post, find some way of giving me the impression that I am being flamed? Just because you haven't heard of something being done a certain way doesn't mean its out of the question.

HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA. magnetic gasoline. Where would one get that? straight from the oil refinery? Even if you could get 'magnetic gasoline," it wouldn't work. Most of the denser gasoline would stick to anything steel. And the polarities would have to be static to be magnetic. Last i recall gasoline was a fluid. Only way I see gas being magnetic is by having metal particles in the gas that were magnetic. Why even do that to your engine? Putting crap gas in it.

Sounds plausable. This is from the 240sx ka24de manual, which Might work on the SR. Set crank to TDC, mark on the distributor the TDC point (not testing for spark, testing the injections circuit). Unmount the dizzy. With the ignition set to ON but not cranked, rotate the dizzy shaft, you should hear each on of the injectors click. The injectors may be fine, but there might something along the wires that maybe wrong, maybe even the ECCS (ECU). Only way to know with the MAF is to replace ans see.

I just wish someone would be willing to put tha much effort. If I recall the positive forms that OS Giken used to make the negative molds from were carved out of wood, correct? Makes me want to go do some carving ,haha. But then I realize that I'm lazy and would fail miserably in my attempt. haha:mrgreen:

I may be wrong, but I see the reason in going carb from EFI in being the tuneablity. With EFI you would have to be able to adjust fuel maps (pretty hard on the stock EFI) and maybe buy bigger injectors ($$$). With carb you would just need to adjust and maybe get different jets. Most of the aftermarket carbs are sealed anyways, but for the price of going 4barrel carb, you can get a full MS kit (comparing new for new). Guess its up to you. If yo go carb, I would try to do something so you would have equal length runners. Well I'm still looking for the name of that company that makes those cheap sealed carbs I mentioned earlier. I'll have to post it later I guess.

Had a insident with a hornets nest once. My dad rolled up some carpet and hung it under our porch. Hornets made a nestin one side of the rolled carpet. We tried to dowse the carpet with gas, but that just made them angry. Then we tried spraying them with gas, again mad ethem angry. Then we put a gabage bag on the end and jammed the nozzle in to the bag with it sealed. Them suckers a pretty freaky when you see them angry in a clear garbage bag. All died obvously. haha. I'm ok with spiders too as long as I can make it go squish. thats me with pretty much anything. If I can't and its after me, I pretty much freak out. haha

Thanks. Haha I was the one that brought up such an old post. Just wanted to know what the progress was, if any. haha.

With the way the intake manifold is usually designed for the 4 barrel setup for these engines. There is usually a lean issue on the 1 and 6 cylindars because of the runners. With a draw through you won't have that problem because your setup would a/f mixture will be equally distributed. The problem I see is if you set it woth too much fuel, some might condense and settle inside the turbo. Might go boom, under the right conditions. There was a a company that makes just sealed carbs and are fairly cheap and easy to find. Most of the VW dunebuggy guys use them. I don't recall the name but I'll look around for it.

You are forgetting that what you are suggesting would be used in a engine. The harsh evironment of the head would cause it to fail miserably. The combination of oil, coolent and heat would cause epoxy to corrode and loos bonding. The best solution would be to weld the passages and then cryo treat it to even the metalurgy of the aluminum, so you would have stress cracks between different densistyies of aluminum. I don't know if this will work, but the aluminum welding stuff that was discussed on another thread might work, because the "filler" won't be in direct contact with the combustion chambers. Just use a propaine torch to melt the compound on one side and then put them torgether and heat the compound through the passages.

Platinum is poor conductor. get different plugs. And don't get those multi point plugs either, the spark only jumps across one point.

just remember not to try to wrench it all at once. move the "pipe" in a rocking fashion. the rocking will sometimes help vibrate the nut loose and is less likely to shear or have the nut slip, messing up the catch points on the nut. Oh and its a good idea to wrap the part being viced in something like a sock or a piece of cloths so you don't put vice marks on the part.

can't run away from a super soaker filled with gasoline and a match haha. Spray in front of where its heading and dowse its and then fire. Haha. Up here, we don't have any of those freaky spiders. Only ones we see often are common house spiders.

And how many rotations per 1 rotation of the pulley. My guess would be 1:1, the vortech s/c have a 5:1 and there bearings are made to handle the addition sideward load of a pulley. I give that thing 400 miles before it craps out.

Only way I see in using something like that would be if the filter on the fuel pump was gone/bad and the fuel tank was rusting. by then you would really replace/repair those anyways and the rust would eventually clog the fuel line because of the magnet. Yet another thing that would need to be replaced.

Yup. Kinda tedious but its the best way to do it. And for body fillers use epoxy based (fiberglass resin based) body filler.

The "knocking" sounds like a bad U joint on the drive shaft since you feel it in the back, but hear it in the front. The RPM/ acceleration sounds like what I mentioned before in the previous post.

Ooooo. That help tremendiously. Thanks. Nevermind of about the Hall setup then. The reason why I asked about that is that the setup looks similar to the 4 slot optical wheel setup, thats all, I just thought you setup this setup like you would a Hall setup and just wanted to comfirm it before I did anything stupid, haha.

Grrrr. I can't seem to find it. I wish it was as easy as lopping off 2 extra cylindars. To help me search better and in refference to the zxt setup. Is it setup in a Hall ignition setup or is it a different setup?

Hitting anything in the valve train is asking for trouble. heating it might work. Try heating it up and using a electric drill with a socket bit, if you can get it in there,and set it so the drill slips on too much torque. On a duwalt drill I suggest 4 ot 5. The vibration from the drill slipping (the internal over toque mech, no the nut) should help loosen it. This is assuming you have th cam out. Another suggestion is try tightening it slightly, just to get the nut moving, and then loosening.