Here comes trouble

Unless you can find a tap that size or a "thread re-storer"... here is a long shot !!....try a good gland nut as it's own tap to restore the internal threads of the strut... heat the gland nut cherry red and drop it in oil or water to quench it. this will give you a hardened gland nut "tap"... do not use this gland nut as a replacement since it will be brittle hard to use as a fastening nut. go slowly with cutting oil or lubrication to try to restore the threads with a gland nut. or.....You could cut off the damaged threads and weld on another strut top but in that case it would easier to replace the complete strut. Just about every strut tube I pulled apart contained the original oil filled strut assembly held in place by a gland nut that had not been disturbed for 30 years Maybe some one else has a better method

a lttle WD-40 helps and so does a custom fuel rail after you tear up the old one getting the injector hoses off...easy to crack a hose that came over on the transport ship when the the Z was a pup

Low life creeps like to steal RV's to cook meth

you are gettig ahead of me.

You get no pity from Mr. Juday. I took my first Z of many years as a donar for the 250 project and within 30 minutes there was no turning back. Easy to accomplish but repeated nightmares from the post stress syndrome are quite vivid.(LOL). The wife will think you are a maniac for a while but she will get over it. Once you hook up the business end of your power tool of choice, the rest is easy .......or you can spend months flip-floping getting nowhere and wasting time... there is a solid tubbed rear axle waiting in there to materialize

I would call it slick advertising......anyway you look at it is a re-skinned Z with some good parts....Chelle's GTO re-do project is more impressive with rear window,longer wheel base, BMW V-12 and more correct venting. Speed Racer's GTO looks better.

You are int0 a labor intensive project if you only plan to use sanding paper...For years I have used a 3450 RPM one horse water pump electric motor with a mandrel adapter attached to the electric motor shaft with a 1/2 inch threaded shaft to mount two 8 inch buffing wheels. My best luck has been with stainless steel buffing compound for aluminum. The buffer can be dangerous to a novice but with a little practice a homemade buffer can be put to useful service for buffing metal. Small buffing wheels attached to a hand held air tools would be a good way to approach buffing as a beginner or to polish smaller areas. The buffing wheel always rotates away from you and you make metal to buffing wheel contact on the lower half of the buffing wheel. Sharp work piece edges tend to catch on the buffing wheel causing the work piece to be ripped from your grip with startling consequences.

Vinh .check out this (Datsun) Daytona Coupe on eBay.. ever seen one look this http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Cobr...Q cmdZViewItem

I have never seen one advertised before in any kit car publication.... maybe something that originated in England and shipped here...the wheels tend to support this English oriigin.

Does Harbour Freight sell dynamite ? by the stick or case...80 LT1 your picture looks like "Dragon's Breath" a special loaded shell fired from a 12 guage shot gun which used to be sold at the gun shows

Jon thanks for the clarification on the "oddball" 1980 tranny since I knew not much about it !

Q 1 A coilover springs @ $34.95 http://www.naake.com/

5 inch coilover sleeve with 2.170 inside diameter (2.166 outside daimeter for 280 Z strut tube.

I actually prefer the kits as better visually proprtioned than the GTO original which is my personal opinion. My project is not an attempt to replicate an original but a construction of a vehicle that I will enjoy driving (and being associated with) I consdier the Z's roll up side windows and rear hatch an improvement over the original. The original tailights as too small and utility light funky as opposed to my big rear utility light funky selection,. I see YNOT's has the rear radio attenae which gives me the inspiration to mount my attenae just for the thrill of watching a chromed pointed cylnderical object go up and down amid the sound of the the whirring commotion of a lttle electric motor at the flick of a switch (cheap thrills). If "precticality" as a person had to choose between an original 240 Z and an original 250 GTO. The GTO would be waved aside as impractical, over expensive, uncomfortable and unreliable as to longevity.....http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/larryjohnson97438/album?.dir=8223&.src=ph&store=&prodid=&.done=http%3a//pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/larryjohnson97438/my_photos

you may find the front strut cartridges may interchange with the difference in diameter but of the same length over the years and the rear strut cartridges may not interchange due to length difference if not diameter....and you are in austrailia.. I do know a 2 inch sectioned 240-280 strut will take a 1985 to early 1991 Jetta/Golf strut cartridge.here is some recent reseach I did http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=103372

I finally got those miserable warped inner fenders fitted and modified by trimming away 2/3's of them and and adding more fiberglass to align with the inside of the outer fenders. I swear they will stay in without any fastners or bonding now. Sun burnned one eye because I do not wear my prescription sun glasses working on the GTO for fear of cruding them up. Over dosed on a muscle relaxers because of the intense eye discomfort and now some strange woman is calling the house.I was not gone two hours to grocery shop. Wife is in Europe. ......Do not start robbing the Vello Rossa for parts.,. I have been tempted to rob the Tomahawk for Parts for the GTO but that would be a fatal step in the wrong direction. Tomahawk would never get finished. Polyester fiberglass resin went from $15.00 a gallon to $21.00 overnight in your own bulk container at the cheapest source around here and solvent goes for $80 plus dollars for 20 gallons in your own container.

Heaven should be a never ending pick and pull yard with an exciting find around every corner.I would attend every Sunday service

Gosh.. Mark I hope you did not go up with the dynamite too !!!!!!! A few 44 mag rounds would work for me.

"coins on the seat and dozens of chrome balls". I always thought this type of self expression died out in the early 60's...time for a reality check and a prescription for psyco-tropic medication. Once saw a fellow in a black motorcycle jacket with intermittant flashing light bulbs on back that advertised "Rocky". I could not detect where he kept the battery pack for his lightshow

I have a single stage 5 HP with 60 gallon tank that probably delivers 10 -12 CFM which just keeps up with my air tools. Pumps up to 125 PSI and regulated to kick in at 60PSI. Your selection is way better in performance than mine by the 2 stage pump.

Never once does the offer address the amount of increase in oil pressure. Probably a generic oil pump that fits all including turbo Z. For less than $20.00 you can obtain a stronger oil pump spring that you can install yourself..then remember not to rev engine when it is cold

In this heat gas expands and a full tank of gas need to be vented....if you remove the return line and all other devices, keep the vented gas cap and do not fill to capacity with fuel and let car set in hot weather. The old 50's and 60's cars would pour gas out on the ground from a full tank in hot weather. Gas was $.25 to .35 a gallon then. I am up here in Lane Counry and my birth place was Grants Pass http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/larryjohnson97438/album?.dir=/392a http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/larryjohnson97438/album?.dir=8223&.src=ph&store=&prodid=&.done=http%3a//pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/larryjohnson97438/my_photos

I have figured out eo far I need water soluable solvent

If the car is running and the engine not disassembled...buy a box of dishwashing Electrosol and pour some in the radiator and buy a cheap flush kit. and perodically soap and soak then flush. repeat until clean

generic 1/4 inch flat bar steel stock.. what type of mounts require high grade steel, CAD design and a machinist. My JTR mounts were made from generic flat bar stock right off the steel rack and hand cut with a Rigid metal cutting bandsaw