madkaw

I assumed you were MIGing . My body shop friend recommended to fill with silicon bronze because it takes less heat .

Are you fill welding with silicon bronze ?

The actual bolt spacing is different too. The Jeep has a more narrow bolt spacing. Ive been reading up on some EFI support pages and I guess I need to actually watch the valve open and close to get the total steps correct . Not sure what your total homing steps are

Mine just refuses to open sometimes . I’ll try a GM before I go to a AAR

Not a final version , but this is where I left it last run . This eliminated all pinging . I just started to dial in more fuel to see if I could raise timing . I also having trim tables to isolate #6 if that’s the offender

Still no luck with the stepper IAC . I am going to get a used GM style to replace this Jeep style I have now to see if that helps . It seems that it just decides not to work sometimes . I get zero air at start and have to use the throttle to modulate . I am about ready to ditch the stepper all together and go ole school with a AAR Bosch valve . I have 3 of them laying around . I use them on my truck and never have a start issue .

Update : I had been fighting an erratic wideband on the rear collector -cylinders 4-6. Well it turns out I still had a leak at the collector which is before the O2 sensors - dammit . This is a Z story header and collector . The collector pipe was modified for my exhaust and I thought I had the flange true , but it still leaked . This time around I eliminated the gasket all together and used Red Loctite only . At the same time I had a new O2 sensor installed since I was that deep into it . I DID see evidence of a leak but changed the sensor anyways . FIXED! This change helped so much with the tune and you could hear it ! I was able to get the banks to harmonize much better with AFR’s and sound . This helped to mitigate the drone I was getting at low rpm cruise . I thought this would also fix an issue I’ve seen on every intake I’ve used where the AFR’s between the two O2 sensors would be different during high vacuum running - light cruise . Megasquirt didn’t seem to be able to compensate in those scenarios though I had two separate O2 sensors dividing the banks . I ended up going into the injector trims and adding fuel to 1-3 since they ran really lean under high vacuum . Maybe they suck all the air out of the plenum before it reaches the last 3 cylinders . I added almost 20% to 1-3 . At this point the AFR’s evened up and you could feel and hear the difference . This is probably the best I’ve had my L running . Happy guy right now

I’ve been using Megasquirt 3x on my 3.2 for a while now . I had a knock sensor module installed on my X board . For some reason I can’t get it to work . I have a feeling there is a defect in the pin out during install . I’m not good enough to troubleshot bad install of a module and I’ve been reading about the usefulness of a cheap audio version that could made for 50$ . Background - I had to tear down my 3.2 because I had remove the crank to clean up the snout from a bad balancer . When I popped out #6 I found a broken top ring and evidence of detonation . Admittedly I was aggressive with timing and it bit me . There were no signs of the broken ring and the pulled 225 rwhp on the dyno . In fact that cylinder showed the highest CR = 220 psi This engine trans package is very noisy . I had straight cut gears and Kameari chain tensioner and a loud exhaust . I thought I heard ping around 4300 and attributed it to a rattling shifter - oops . # 6 was the only cylinder with any damage . I also pulled coolant from #6 at the head with a bypass to help mitigate problems . This time around I want to make sure this doesn’t happen again . I followed this you tube video. i was skeptical but it really works well. I drilled a hole above the freeze plug around 5&6 . Plenty of met there and there is a flat boss area for the sensor to sit flat against the block . You can hear the valve train clearly but you can also hear the ping clearly . I ended up pulling 4 degrees out of total timing on 93 octane . Megasquirt 3 allows for individual spark trim and I am going to try and isolate the issue to number 6 if that’s the case . Anyways - it’s not as good as real time retard available on ECU’s , but it is very effective to show some limits .

Yes - they are tough . This is also the Torsen version .

Going a different route with my car . Sold to me used with 30k miles . As you can see it’s super clean . I am willing to pop the cover if buyer requests . asking 750$ ships from 47401

Looks like the same pistons I run with the dish . Smart man to put arrows on the pistons. You won’t put one in the wrong place like I did - lol.

That’s what I run , 18-20 degrees .

Where’s the English version !

This tailshaft housing allows anyone running the Nissan T5 to upgrade to a World Class T5 and have the shifter in the stock Nissan position . This Aussie version of the T5 was made for the larger output shaft -1.5”. Basically you could grab a Foxbody Mustang transmission and slap this on and have the shifter in the Nissan location . Or you buy a brand new Tremec t5 like I did and swap out this tailshaft housing . Tailshaft comes with shifter rod which is required . There are slight mods to make the World class work with the L series . The input shaft has to be the short 10 spline . That also means a change of clutch - which I run an organic Mustang clutch disc . The input shaft will have to have the nose machined down for the pilot bushing . Output is 26 spline so the DS will have to modified . So far I have no complaints with the Tremec T5 other than the OD being huge .63 . 2400 rpm is 80 mph . I might get 30 mpg ! Reach out to me for any questions I will ship anywhere .

I am running a stepper IAC

Starts are always the challenge I feel . Hot start when one side is struggling to get fuel makes it worse. I’m still working these things out myself with my new tune .

Im still not keeping up -lol Now tuning on a Protunerz intake . Not much different than the last intake but the longer runners help the low end . Something I’ve noticed with ALL these plenum intakes is that the air is not always equal across the cylinders . I am probably one of the very few that has a 6-2 header that continue on to duals AND have a Wideband on each side of the exhaust . The tendacy of these plenums that under high vacuum situations ( idle or lower KPA) , the first 3 cylinders indicate that they run leaner - as if they are stealing the air out of the room . As soon as KPA gets above idle the AFR’s start to even up quickly . Not sure if you could detect this on the plugs unless you ran your engine very lean . The Megasquirt 3X allows for injector trim which I have been adjusting . To get AFR’s to match up between the two banks I add as much as 20% to high vacuum cell areas . It also can be felt by a smoother engine operation . Now this is mostly over- run conditions and light throttle modulation during highway cruise . I’ve checked calibration on my Spartan 14.7 wideband and they seem correct . I have my ego sensors separated by banks . I guess I also wonder why tuner analyze won’t pull in more fuel in these situations , I use the same AFR table for both ego sensors . Just thought this was interesting and most won’t see this with their 6-1 header where it all averages out

I’ve reached out to Modern Driveline to see what Paul thinks . I think at the time he did offer a .75 OD at an extra cost . I didn’t think about this scenario . I’ve asked if I can use the NWC 5th gear like it was on my G Force

Swapped out cams today and my back knows it . So I’ve never had this cam in with the Protunerz intake . I did run this Bonk 1 with the N42 intake . Lots of torque down low . The larger runners(38mm) are huge compared to the n42 and that alone moved the power band up the rpm’s range . The Bonk 2 just exacerbated the loss of low end . i think this might be a good midway place to be . Id probably say that the runners could be a little smaller to be optimum . I will dyno run this thing whenever I think I got it tuned in well . Just found the only negative of my new WC trans. The .63 overdrive puts me right in the drone zone - it’s about ridiculous . Not sure what I can do about it . I have resonators in my exhaust - but might have to try a Hemoltz style to fix this . Good day all in all .

SOLD!!!!!!

I neglected to share my transmission upgrade/downgrade - depends on your perspective . I was previously running a GForce T5 with straight cut gears . Whine was cool for one year and I was over it . Loved being able to slam gears and not worrying about shock loading the trans . Really liked all the shifter options with the T5. i know some guys don’t like the heavy/ notchy shifter , but I like the feel . I didn’t want to replace the G Force with the OEM NWC T5 . Didn’t want a 71B or 71C and parts are getting scarce . CD009 meant more weight , less room and more retro fitting . What I did was found a way to run a new Tremec T5 world class . I had to source a tailshaft from a WC T5 that put the shifter in the right position . NWC output shaft is only 1.3” and a WC is 1.5” so you can’t use the NWC tailshaft unless you weld build it and machine it out and hope it gets done right . I got Modern Driveline to help me out doing the R&D . I sourced a WC tailshaft from a Commodore out of Australia . Shifter location is exactly the same . Modern Driveline machined the input shaft for proper length and pilot bearing size . I run a Ford clutch and I run an internal slave unit . Modern Driveline installed the tailshaft on their new trans and made sure it worked good . That put a new detent plate in for the shifter and since I bought the trans new they honored their 2 year warranty ! Trans is very quiet and so far all is good . It’s rated at 330 ft pounds on a 3300 pound car , so it’s plenty strong enough . Best part is the trans bolts in just like the Nissan one . Yes you also need to modify the DS

Been driving her around with the new shiny bits and everything seems to be working well. No dyno runs coming up. I plan on swapping out my Bonk 2 cam to got back to Bonk 1 . Not sure I want or like this huge cam . Power band is really high which is okay - but I want some more low end . I think the longer runners with this intake has made things better than the previous intake , but power band is still way above 4K . I built a motor that can handle these rpm’s , but I’m wanting a little more civility for the road . Then there’s the stink of all that duration . So if anyone is looking for a race cam I will be selling this Bonk 2 . Now that I’ve gotten rid of the noisy G Force trans I can hear myself think driving around . Now I can hear noises that maybe were there before and I just could hear them . I think my Kameari tensioner is making the noise I hear now . Not sure how I can verify that though .

I think you are right !!

I have 2 housings in great shape . No pitting and all the threads are in good shape. 100$ each - includes shipping in the US sfinnerty1018@gmail.com