madkaw

"AND the subaru R160 units have the same spline count and can be converted this way too... " BJ, do you know what years that would be . I am very interested in the easy swap to a newer suby rear and the weight saving over a r200 is something to be considered. Jon, great right up. You sure save us a lot of questions and research. Then again , you sure cause a lot of questions and researchfor me:lol: if you know what I mean. Lot's of alternatives here , but not complaining!!!

Battery?

There is a set on ebay that closes out tonight and he has dropped the price on the gunmetals to 299$. There were 399$ i believe and i think the ones with the black centers still are 399$ . I would jump on it but money is a little tight right now :(

Paul , sounds like i am at the limit then. Good thing my machinist talked me out of 10 to 1. He figured right at 9.55 to 1 on my head. The chambers cc'd at 41.5 but the bore is notched for my big valves that has reduced the CR . I don't want to run on AVGAS!!

Well I have been reading as much as i can on this and I think i did do something wrong. Since my dial indicator doesn't have a long stem I believe I had the indicator at a slight angle on the valve which would have changed the numbers slightly. Some of you valve geometry GURU's might be able to tell me how that effected my numbers, I didn't do very well in geometry during school but I am thinking that this would cause my numbers to come in late which would make my numbers look better. Anyone????

You'll find on these forums that everyone has an opinion on what works and very little people mess with the the 2.4 block. Yes, 280 blocks are abundant and relatively cheap and displacement is easy horsepower but not that much. Unfortunetly your head that year seems to be the less desirable for hotrodding but you should have the bigger ex. valves which is good if that is the case. I believe your going to have to cam that head to take advantage of the header and carbs. I believe the combustion chambers are not the best and need to up the cr to get a litttle more punch. I am in the process of doing my 71 2.4 but I have put a LOT of effort to get more ponies (lots of cash too). 12 sec norm had good luck with his 2.4 but you will find not many folks have really massaged the 2.4 as much as the 2.8. I think the folks that have ,have been happy with there motor. search on zcar.com for 2.4 too.

Finally got my head back from the shop(another story), but I put the degree wheel on her this week and would like some feedback guys. What I have is a e-88 head that has been completely redone with 280 s.s.valves and I installed a stge 2 schneider cam kit ,274-f grind going on a .40 over 2.4. The cam card calls for 2 degree intake opens btdc -2degree ex. closes atdc 32 degree intake closes abdc 36 degree ex. opens bbdc My numbers cam up 1 degree intake opens ADTC 3degrees ex.closes btdc 34 degrees intake closes abdc 35 degrees ex. opens bbdc First off, what is up with the negative degree number on the exhaust side. I am interpreting this as 2 degree btdc-am I correct? I used the #1 hole on the sprocket since the other holes took the numbers further away from specs. And yes I did find tdc the right way with a little help from BRAAP sticky. Doing the math I concluded that my intake center was right on-do you agree?

I don't doubt the science of cryo treating, i think it is a science and legit process,there is much info on this ---- Why Cryogenic Tempering is Important Possibly the most important restriction to industrial productivity is metallic parts wear. Tool bits, punch dies, and bearing surfaces are all subject to wear under normal use conditions. The cost and downtime associated with parts replcement has limited the speed of production equipment since the beginning of the industrial age. Proper cryogenic tempering offers impressive gains in terms of tool and component life. Increases of 400% in number of operations before resharpening are not uncommon, and claims go beyond 25 TIMES the normal tool life in some applications (Frozen Gears). Cryogenic treatment has also found favorable results in auto racing, sporting goods (golf balls that fly farther!), and firearms manufacturing. In short, there is little doubt about the effectiveness of the process in enhancing wear- and fatigue-resistance. Questions remain however, as to what actual structural changes take place during the cryogenic process. I will contact web cams and see if they actually use this process with their cams.Good subject for debate though!

thanks for the post pyro:-)

Pyro, looked for that article and couldn't find it?

That's what I mean Jon, there is almost too much info on these sites. I read and read and sometimes I am more turned around then when I started. I rather have too much then not enough though. I believ i have a competent machinist helping me on this so I am hoping that getting everything set up correctly the first time will be my best bet in the whole scheme of things and then go from there. Being just an average mechanic doesn't help so i am always looking for good advice but that can be very different on a given day

Dragonfly, good advice,thanks. I will document the break in , incase there is any issues. Glad to hear you are happy with your cam set-up. I agree with you that schneider has been at this for a while so they should know something more then me .(doesn't take much for that) I guess modifying engines invloves an infinite number of "what ifs"

Jon, I value yours and other experienced views on this. I have already purchased the kit so I am in for the long haul so getting another cam would not be good solution for me now. If cryo would improve what I have for 25$ i think it would be worth it although I realize this would be hard to prove. As far as cam profile I have read many of your posts and maybe i will be disappointed by my choice but for a street car, that I will race very little, but will be modified, I think it will be a good comprimise. I guess if the cam is too much of a dud I can have a stock cam reground and kill both issues at once. Maybe I read too much from these sites and always question if i am doing the right thing, I guess should stick with what i have and go from there.

Gav, I have done most of my searching on Zcar.com. The arguement there is that the same springs rates are used on different cams . So basically the springs rates are too high for the cams causing undue wear. Also the cwc billet used is not as tough as original nissan billet, which is definetly believable. Thus my question of cryo treating. I am also looking for peoples experiences to back up this or deny this.

I've been reading the archives on the schneider cams and now I think I should have been reading these earlier -before I ordered my stage 2. My real concern is the supposed softness of the cam. My head is being finished at the shop as I speak, and i have a lot of money in this head. I bought the complete msa kit so all parts should be matched and the wipe pattern will be done correctly. If there is a metallurgy question regarding the schneider billet , has anyone considered or done some cryogenic treating of the cam. For about 25$ you can get the cam treated which would increase hardness of the metal to get the most out of the cam.I thought I read somewhere that the only difference between schneider kits and some of the other CWC grinds that vendors sell is the fact that some vendors have there cams hardened. I would also wonder that after the head was completely set up with the cam, and THEN the cam was sent out to be hardened if this would change the set up in anyway.

100LL has a lot more lead then auto leaded gas ever had. What damage it will do ,I'm not sure. When I use to work at an FBO I would fill up my 240z every once in a while(hope my old boss isn't reading this) and the car ran fantastic.

So what about motorcycles!!! Most are overhead cam to shim valve with way more rpms. Are they concerned or is their valve train weight and pressures not as great. Is the cam wear do to inferior metals being used for the cams.Surely oil advances have helped to make up for the losses of certain additives.Definetly an subject worth investigating

Is the "how to rebuild your Datsun Engine" book much better then a shop manual ;surely better then chiltons for references and illustrations. I have the "how to modify " book but know I think I should have gotten the rebuild book to make sure I get the basics right. Saying all that was basically my advice to do it by the book or atleast have a reference to help guide you so you don't miss anything

Great read! Correct me if I am wrong but our cam sprockets don't allow for degree adjustments, it would take a special sprocket to really "degree" our cams. .So would you be just checking to see if you installed the cam correctly?? I did this procedure on my Kawasaki 1000 when I installed Web cams but they had slotted sprockets. This is not a job you just jump into but much to my surprise though, the folks at Web were very helpful and walked me thru the procedure to check my lobe centers.It came down to simple math and reading the dial indicator.

1fastz, just curious what flow ## you've got out of a early e-88. My head is at the shop now and wonder what a base line would be for a mild port and polish on a e-88. My machinist is in new territory with these heads but willing to learn. Any thing else you want to share about the e-88 would be appreciated. So far he has made custom copper berilium seats,S.S. valves-larger 280 valves,new guides. I'm having him install a stage 2 schneider kit. Not sure about C.R. yet Also, anyone cryogenically treating the so called soft cwc cams? Steve

I don't have my book in front of me but I believe the whole idea of doing this mod was to eliminate the possibility if the original plugs from accidently popping out and losing oil pressure. There should be no reason to take these plugs back out so why not epoxy them in.