madkaw

How does one check that output bearing? I have the DS off. It seemed that with the DS installed I could get movement at the tailshaft. When I take the DS off, I can wiggle the output spline easily with two fingers-but I thought that was okay without the DS yoke on there. Like I said though, I can wiggle the DS yoke with the DS in the tranny How much is it to change that bearing?

If your that close to being to stock geometry, why don't you use the stock diffy mount and use the Techno version to sandwhich it with the urethane cone they supply?

I guess I didn't read the ad closely enough- still great for my application which does use the energy mount. Hope this works out for you and me both!!!!

How do you know the techno version lowers the pinion? Just curious because I ordered one today . I played with driveline angles until my back hurt and I need to lower my pinion about that much and that would make my job so easy!!!!!! I thought the techno version was supposed to put the diff in the original position

So the pinion needs to go up? How much? Can you lower the tranny mount? What diff mount do you have?

What made you want to try larger pilots - not sure what you meant? As was stated to me, the cam has a lot to do with your pilot size and all your jets obviously. But from what I have read the larger the cam, the smaller the pilots- probably because of larger overlap affecting low rpms. This would hold true in my case with a small cam wanting bigger pilots, plus my valve timing being slightly advance . Making my power in the lower rpm band. So what was your issue?

Your dizzy cap should have a mark next to number 1 cylinder so you know where to set up rotor . Your almost 180 degrees out by that pic. Sure you were on compression stroke of number 1?

Are you sure #1 plug wire is lined up with the dizzy cap number 1? Does the rotor line up with number 1 at tdc? It almost sounds like you are one tooth off, but compensated by having your wires one plug off! Weird all the same! Looking at your picture- if that rotor is sitting where it is at 1 TDC, then it is wrong. The rotor should between the 9&10 oclock

Yep, that's where I stay.

Well my employment takes me into Collinsville all the time, where I mostly sit in hotels wishing I was wrenching on my Z. If you ever need help with your Z , I'm just sitting around hotels bored.

Excellent tutorial, very well laid out. Time to revisit this also. I love the idea of the socket sitting on the U joint!

They look good-need to get mine on order!!

Work is always getting in the way of the fun!

Glad you posted this. I have been e-mailing them myself and wasn't sure I got the answer I was looking for. So the link is what you ordered? And they are standard size ZG's, not extra wide or anything? So they follow the body lines tightly? Some pics showing them against the fender would be great!!

In chasing my vibration issues, the only thing I did that seemed to make a direct impact on the issue was moving my diff foward. It made my subtle vibration in the 3300rpm range(3rd gear most pronounced) much more prevelant. So the only thing I see that I changed was the angle.So I'm going to start shimming both sides of the angle(under tranny or diff) to prove that it did make the change.

Ask for lots of pics! Ask for delivery that can be tracked. Be skeptical of sellers with just 1 post.

You have reminded me to update my signature. I am running the STI r180, so that's not issue. My car is only lowered 1 inch . I would be more worried about running out of travel on my main driveshaft. Not sure what the minimum amount of play should be on the yoke at the tranny.

Well, I am back to this issue that hasn't been resolved. Latest updates is that I DID have a bad halfshaft on the passenger side. There was excessive play between the casing and the spline. I replaced the shaft with another one and had the universals changed out. I believe it mostly eliminated the high speed vibration that was there at constant speed, but I obviously have more then one issue. It's still amazing to me that the DS shop can balance a bad halfshaft. I still have a rhythmic vibration around the 3k rpm range. It is most noticeable during deceleration. It has been very subtle until recently. Recently I had shoved my diff foward about 3/8" . The reason I did this was that my previous install of the diff I shoved it too far back and the moustache bar was about riding against my downlinks to the rear control arms. My RT mount does allow for some foward aft adjustment. Being shoved too far back caused contact with any flexing of the moustache bar and I was getting a clunk in the rear. Anyway, after moving the diff FOWARD, the vibration has gotten more intense. So can someone help me picture what is going on as far as driveline forces during decel? What changes occured in my driveline moving the diff like this.

Not sure if the sound quality has anything to do with the engine size. I think it's a challenge to get the L6 to sound good with duals. I was told on this site that duals would sound funny because of exhaust pulses -blah blah blah The drone will always be an issue, but manageable . Chambered mufflers are better for quieting the beast, but I went with 10inch magnaflows- turbo type. I also have 12 inch resonators in there, not sure if they do much at all. Your set up doesn't allow the room for the larger mufflers so it will be louder. I posted a video called " music to my ears", that barely does the sound justice, but listen with headphones. I will be making another video now I have my triples on, because the sound got even better. The biggest thing to avoid for me is the cackle sound, but I think you need bigger mufflers to avoid that.

Duals are a total pain in the a$$, and it is really tight under there. Then there's the extra cost, noise, weight--so my recommendation is hook them babies back up to your duals and run it The sound of my exhaust is in the top things I love about this car. As far as worrying about matching up the primary lengths, not sure if it's going to cost you much HP in the end. The arguments could go on forever as far as what's better, single ,dual, but I vote duals- IMHO

What about under load going up a hill or something- does it sputter or anything even in the lower rpms? Almost sounds ignition related- like a weak coil

So have you checked the TPS, isn't it just a simple ohms test? So have you checked your timing, isn't it just a timing light check? Not much info here for us to help- at least I'm in the dark here! This knd of rant doesn't do you any good- just makes you sound bad

On a fresh rebuild I would want to see oil before lighting a fire. It might take a little bit to see oil pressure, or you could rig a drive spindle to prime the pump before starting. I think I used an old chevy dizzy drive and a drill to prime the motor

You ve gone thru 3 bearings ? I'm running the bw trans and always wondered if it could be an issue. So you can hear the problem turning the shaft by hand or does it have to spin faster? Did you ever put a dial guage on to measure run out on the shaft or just went by ear