madkaw

About found everything-thanks guys-still wouldn't mind finding a oem valve cover hose.

Electronic Fuel Injectors 101- Being a carb guy most of my life I know very little about FI components, but I am schooling myself everyday. Can someone give me a good link to page that lays out the whole- domestic/import -11mm-14mm injector stuff. I have been searching for hours for anything to do with a parts break-down of a modern fuel injector and the differences between injector sizes(physical size, O-ring types) . Trying to lay out my stradegy for the fuel rail and injector selection as well as machining the intake runners and can't get past the fact I don't even know if 11mm or 14mm is regarding just the feed side of the injector or what. I can find tons of info on properly sizing the injector based on HP needs, low impedance vs. high impedance, duty cycle, ect..... but not much about machining and about the mechanical connections and sizes.

hose from valve cover to airbox 240z -servicable condition 240z fender emblems-not worried about attaching points- as I am appearance early fuel door latch assembly "datsun" door sill plates-looking for one that will clean up nicely-will need decent pics early seat reclining mechanism-covers-need at least two good mounting holes on each cover send pics to s_finnerty1018@comcast.net

I have recently aquired a project off of flee bay from someone who was making their own turbo intake/plenum. It seems to be a good start to me and I would like to finsh and use it. INTAKE: As you can see from the pics the intake is a Cannon manifold which has been welded to the start of a plenum. The welding seems to be sound and air horns were incorporated into the entry of the runners. its seems to be nicely blended with a taper from 45mm to 37mm at the head side. I will have to decide where to install the injectors. I was supplied 14mm bungs with the manifold that are cut at 45 degrees. I'd like to place them close up against the intake flange so the bungs are drilled to enter the port as high as possible. This will be installed on a early e-88 head that's NOT notched for injection. PLENUM: the plan was to make a "shoe" shaped type plenum that is used on some RB manifolds. This design looks to be the easiest to finish from it's present state. The plenum area is 22"X 4.25". The tough fabbing will be incorporating the TB mounting to the plenum. On the other hand, the dual plenum idea is also being considered. This plenum is not so far along that I could change directions and go with a dual plenum like; http://www.racerxfabrication.com/page1/page5/page22/page22.html It's obvious from Monzter's work and others that this plenum has significant merits. I can purchase the larger plenum extrusion from Ross Machine(mailbox extrusuion). The cone extrusion is a little more difficult to aquire-unless Tony's idea of a Louisville Slugger will work, then it's a piece of cake. Find a bat that will blend in with a 60mm TB and connect to the mailbox! I know I am simplifying things here, but I think you see the direction. I'm posting up to get help from the members here. Please let me hear your input.

Search rota RBs 17x8.5 +4 and find my thread Pictures of what exactly

I'm running the same wheel size with +4 offset on a 240. You will have to have spacers up front - guessing 10mm You might just clear the rear - not sure if the 280 strut is different

Tony, Isn't one of the issues when coverting NA to turbo engine is that builders throw a mega thick HG on there to lower CR and only ruin the anti- detonation characteristics of the OEM squish? I know your not a big Corky Bell fan, but I remember reading that he said the wrong thing to do with a high CR. Build is to alter the stock squish. When I do my turbo conversion on my L24, it will be staying at 9.5 But I will be running MS

I put this thread in members projects because it will be a project that I hope I will get some help on from the knowledgable folks here on this site. As you can see from the pics this intake/plenum is far from done-but it is a nice start. I am currently running triple Mikuni's, but someday I was wanting to proceed on to FI and hopefully Turbo FI. I had some momentary thoughts of pressurizing my Mikuni's, but have decided-(by reading all the negatives) that it would be more of a cool factor than a good running set-up. I will post this disclaimer-I am a novice to FI and have a lot to learn. I have had plans, and still do, to run a megasquirt on my car. I was planning on learning about MS by installing it to run my spark on my current Mikuni set-up. Instead of doing a complete change over at once, I could get familiar with MS by running spark control and not take my car completely out of commission. I set-up my flywheel to run a Hall effect sensor and hopefully it will work. I will run COP. Not sure if this custom intake came from a member here or not, maybe they will chime in. It looks to be thought out by using the Cannon intake. The tig welding looks great and air horns are welded in on the plenum side to provide the proper radius. All that was blended in with some port work to make everything seamless. What you see is what I got, still have to close it in and set-up FI bungs and throttle body. I will be looking for input on injector placement and plenum shape. From what I have read it seems that injectors should be as close to head as possible for best idling and running characteristics-though it seems I have read that it's not critical to be right at the head. Agree? I am running an early e-88 head that is NOT notched for injectors. The bungs that were provided look to be for 14mm injectors. Still need to do research on what type,size injector to run. Love to run something common that I can steal from a wreck!! As far as plenum finishing, I will be taking into consideartion size and shape of the finished product. pretty sure that the TB will be 60mm. I haven't measured volume of this plenum yet, but sizing looks good. Trying to picture in my head what the original owner was going with the shape or location of entry. Please feel free to comment or give advice on this project. I am looking for some guidance and the proper do's and don'ts on this. I will be doing a lot of research on this and post my thoughts before proceeding.If anyone knows of similiar projects using the carby intake please send me a link.

Okay, maybe I am slow to get Tony's humor- I recind my sarcastic remark. Thanks for the update- I thought maybe this thread transcends to another forum or thread

Scored this off of ebay for 100.00$-I think I did well. More details to come, but for now -some pics

Remember this thread John http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/thread44443.html Even a well thought out question on a site that not as "technical" as hybridz seemed to irritate you. You even posed that Hybridz would be the place for his "type" questions after your "yawn " comment on his proposal. I'm a little confused here. You will never be able to rid the sites of stupid questions because hopefully we will aquire new members all the time-so maybe you should just ignore them and maybe have a"spot of tea".

Don't trust your eyes, get a wrench out and start tightening stuff. A diff nut 1 turn loose will give a hell of a clunk. DS nuts loose will cause major vibration. You won't see it, but you will feel it

Anybody has something better than Tony's sarcasim

It's made-has it been used? I didn't see that part in the thread.

Not sure about the WC T-5, but with my zxt t-5 I had to modify the hole a good inch foward . I'm using a pro- tower shifter to keep the shifter out of the heater panel. Also had to modify my 73 console( my car is a 9/71) . I just added clearance for the foward gears.

That little L24 will surprise you done right- even as far as torque!

Well I just read thru this whole thread and it ended here? Did I miss something or did this continue on somewhere else- I feel left hanging:)

I got them on ebay right now, but will pull them if you are interested. they are from a 260z, But I believe they are the same for your 280z.

Frank, i feel that I boxed myself in a little sticking with cast, so it will limit my cam selections if i want to upgrade from my stage 2 Schneider cam. With that said, I might contact the more L-6 engine friendly builders to profile my next cam to take full advantage of the cast limitations. I have a read many posts declaring 7k to be the limit, and I would want a cam that started tapering off right at that limit. You will be pleasantly suprised of the torque of the little ole L24, especially if you take full advantage of it's power-even at the cast limits. I guess it depends on how deep your pockets are and whether you have to have new pistons or not. The only plus for me with having cast is if I decide to pressurize, the cast will probably be a better choice. Don't forget to notch those bores!!

Getting some gas at a station about 2am. I come out of the mart and a young man says-' nice car, Porsche or Ferrari ?' Guy s next to me at stop light and asks who did the work on the car -looks fantastic. I told him I did , I've had the car for 15 years. He said' damn that's nice- must be worth 70 or 80 grand now' I said' SOLD' Lady pulls next me( probably older than my car) and asks me what year. I tell her it's a 1971. She tells me she had a 1972, then smiles in a deviously and raises her eyebrows and says" I have a lot of memories in that car". My son in the passenger seat (16) slouches in his seat and says OMG. It's almost everytime I drive this car- it's great

I guess I understand wanting to keep I easier for the programming, but with the policy of only "donating members" being able to post, I think the edit should be left available to keep posts updated and concise .

Yes, I believe 4.25" is stock head thickness. I would make sure you find out the thickness incase you need to shim. One of the members here makes .030" shims in one piece(he makes the speaker kick panels).

For me -powder coating was cost effective. To get the toughness of powder coating you would need to epoxy primer(etching) to get the good grip on the SS. Then a top coat. Maybe I just get it done cheaper around here, but the cost was so reasonable and not having to deal with paint fumes, clean-up, etc.. If you haven't really priced powder coating, you should. Most powder coating places are shooting black everyday and have the black on hand. It's when you start ordering odd colors is where the costs go up. If you have everything prepped for the powder coater where all he has to do is shoot, it might be cheaper than you think.

I saw some responses to similiar issues, but not sure I understand the policy here. I want to be able to update and or change my classified ad, but looks like the edit feature was lost after one edit. What is the policy here on Hybridz? thanks