madkaw

Okay, maybe I am slow to get Tony's humor- I recind my sarcastic remark. Thanks for the update- I thought maybe this thread transcends to another forum or thread

Scored this off of ebay for 100.00$-I think I did well. More details to come, but for now -some pics

Remember this thread John http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/thread44443.html Even a well thought out question on a site that not as "technical" as hybridz seemed to irritate you. You even posed that Hybridz would be the place for his "type" questions after your "yawn " comment on his proposal. I'm a little confused here. You will never be able to rid the sites of stupid questions because hopefully we will aquire new members all the time-so maybe you should just ignore them and maybe have a"spot of tea".

Don't trust your eyes, get a wrench out and start tightening stuff. A diff nut 1 turn loose will give a hell of a clunk. DS nuts loose will cause major vibration. You won't see it, but you will feel it

Anybody has something better than Tony's sarcasim

It's made-has it been used? I didn't see that part in the thread.

Not sure about the WC T-5, but with my zxt t-5 I had to modify the hole a good inch foward . I'm using a pro- tower shifter to keep the shifter out of the heater panel. Also had to modify my 73 console( my car is a 9/71) . I just added clearance for the foward gears.

That little L24 will surprise you done right- even as far as torque!

Well I just read thru this whole thread and it ended here? Did I miss something or did this continue on somewhere else- I feel left hanging:)

I got them on ebay right now, but will pull them if you are interested. they are from a 260z, But I believe they are the same for your 280z.

Frank, i feel that I boxed myself in a little sticking with cast, so it will limit my cam selections if i want to upgrade from my stage 2 Schneider cam. With that said, I might contact the more L-6 engine friendly builders to profile my next cam to take full advantage of the cast limitations. I have a read many posts declaring 7k to be the limit, and I would want a cam that started tapering off right at that limit. You will be pleasantly suprised of the torque of the little ole L24, especially if you take full advantage of it's power-even at the cast limits. I guess it depends on how deep your pockets are and whether you have to have new pistons or not. The only plus for me with having cast is if I decide to pressurize, the cast will probably be a better choice. Don't forget to notch those bores!!

Getting some gas at a station about 2am. I come out of the mart and a young man says-' nice car, Porsche or Ferrari ?' Guy s next to me at stop light and asks who did the work on the car -looks fantastic. I told him I did , I've had the car for 15 years. He said' damn that's nice- must be worth 70 or 80 grand now' I said' SOLD' Lady pulls next me( probably older than my car) and asks me what year. I tell her it's a 1971. She tells me she had a 1972, then smiles in a deviously and raises her eyebrows and says" I have a lot of memories in that car". My son in the passenger seat (16) slouches in his seat and says OMG. It's almost everytime I drive this car- it's great

I guess I understand wanting to keep I easier for the programming, but with the policy of only "donating members" being able to post, I think the edit should be left available to keep posts updated and concise .

Yes, I believe 4.25" is stock head thickness. I would make sure you find out the thickness incase you need to shim. One of the members here makes .030" shims in one piece(he makes the speaker kick panels).

For me -powder coating was cost effective. To get the toughness of powder coating you would need to epoxy primer(etching) to get the good grip on the SS. Then a top coat. Maybe I just get it done cheaper around here, but the cost was so reasonable and not having to deal with paint fumes, clean-up, etc.. If you haven't really priced powder coating, you should. Most powder coating places are shooting black everyday and have the black on hand. It's when you start ordering odd colors is where the costs go up. If you have everything prepped for the powder coater where all he has to do is shoot, it might be cheaper than you think.

I saw some responses to similiar issues, but not sure I understand the policy here. I want to be able to update and or change my classified ad, but looks like the edit feature was lost after one edit. What is the policy here on Hybridz? thanks

L24 with Mikuni triples and a one-off Nissan airbox!

I have a terribly noisy diff in a 71 that is going up for sale. I need a r180 that runs quiet. I'm in Indiana, so I would prefer someone close to save on shipping. I can paypal or I have many items for possible trade. Please email or PM me with what you got. I will be looking locally too and I will update this thread if I find one. Thanks

I started a 'triple mikuni thread' over on classic which might also have some useful stuff. I'll post up my numbers when I have dynoed with my triples on my L24.

Google lemon juice method !

The look of the engine bay with mounted side drafts- especially triples Torque and MPG and The music.

Not good at pasting with my I phone FAQ Drivetrain L6 How to degree your cam Page 3

You definitely want a good size pre-muffler. Another thought is a chambered type muffler instead of a turbo-type. I like the sound of my duals, but wonder what impact a baffled muffler would have had on the sound. I have pre-resonators( glass packs) and wish I could have fit bigger cans in there. My magnaflows do a much better job of mellowing the tone over the previous glasspacks. I vote for good flowing chambered muffler with a large resonator on your 3" system. Or duals.......

I am also having starter issues- I believe that is your issue. I can jump across the selanoid and the starter will work again. I'm getting tired of Fu@€ing around with starters, it's hard to find A good rebuilt or remanned one. I'm about ready to drop 200$ on a remanned Hitachi! I just ordered a remanned AC DELCO, I hope it does better.