madkaw

...or, you use a pump drive shaft without a drive gear and prime the motor with a drill. I was just trying to prove to myself about the cam oil reduntancy, the side effect was my engine was fully primed before I ever started it. It was always a worry for me to start a fresh engine and be able to satisfy the cam manufactuer with the 20 minute/2000 rule. Lets face it, a brand new motor with all kinds of parts that have never worked together before and now i expect to turn the key and MAGIC happens on the first revolution. I don't think so. Then there's the Schneider Cam issue-or at least the one that has been alluded too many times on this site. It doesn't have the proper metallurgy because it's not a nissan core and they will fail. And any failure reported by someone on this site has been because of poor metallurgy of these cams(schneider) I have 10k miles atleast on my cam now(Schneider) and the lobes look perfectly poilshed. What I know I have done right is primed the motor, have proper valve lash, and used ZDDP. The one thing I DIDN'T do right was the 20/2000 rule. I had issues and the motor probably ran 5 minutes the first time before I had to shut it down-can't remember why. But I do remember thinking that I fu@ked up and I have ruined the cam.

To answer Clarkspeed; to the best of my knowledge -YES. When I took my engine to the builder, I also handed him the "how to Modify' book , which i believe mentioned that little trick of enlarging the orifice. I will also add that i bought the so called "turbo oil pump' when i did that experiment. Everything I tried( pump springs), failed to get oil to reach the lash pads from the spray bar.

I don't know if this has anything to do with this situation or not, but I did an extensive experiment with the "dual" lubrication method for the cam. I was driving my oil pump with a heavy duty drill and actually watched the results of the internally oiled cam and the spray bar combo. The oil from the spray bar didn't even reach the cam followers, and this was with a heavy duty pump with heavier pump spring. There was still decent pressure coming out of the cam holes, I believe enough to lubricate the cam, but the spray bar was doing no good. To me, it was just more things to go wrong and i eliminated the spray bar. I think the internally oiled cam is WAY more than enough lubrication for the cam-especiallly if you see how it sprays out those holes. There is a thread on Classic Z somewhere that i started, but I'm to lazy to look it up. Hope you find your issue, I have enjoyed watching your build

Flow issues??

Throwing this out there knowing my chance are slim. I have 8.5 X17 +4 offset Hyper Black Rotas. I'd like to go staggered, so I'm hoping someone else wants the same and we can trade out a set of 8.5's for 9.5's. Or will buy a set of 17x9.5 Rota's e-mail me s_finnerty1018@comcast.net

You might try Classic Z also. I think there is members there from your area. I work in ST.Louis sometimes and could help you out, but it will be a few weeks before I am in that area. I usually stay in Collinsville when I am there.

It seems that a hard pull in 5th would be asking a lot from your Mikuni's with a big cam. You are pretty low in the rpm band at 65 in 5th. Adding size to the pumps would make it worse I believe. If anything , maybe a change in the position of the acc. rod to bring things in sooner to get rid of the dead spot, but not sure if it will help you with the 5th gear issue. It seems that your build is to bring in power way above 3000rpm and you are dumping a lot of fuel for the engine to handle below that threshhold. I have read of other builds similiar to yours and 47 pumps seem big for most. I see the same action with the AFRs when hard tip-in at lower rpm. The AFRs dip quite low waiting for the engine to get in the range to burn off all that fuel. I do have more tuning to do, so I might be talking out my a$$, but this is what I have experienced. I wouldn't get hung up trying to tune out a hard tip-in issue in 5th-will you really need that?I would be more concerned with wide open AFR's through the power band.

Juan, When I get back from spring break I will see what my friend has. He has to 78's sitting in the back yard that he can cut up. That will a hard part to fabricate.

The view is outstanding- especially the drivers side. The rectanglular shape makes for a wide angle on stuff behind you. They stick out almost 2" further than the Californias.

Appreciate the opinion. I know they aren't as 'graceful' as the california's. I might still try a pair of the baby turbos. For now, i'm going to let them grow on me.

Sorry, I meant to add a link and I can't edit my own post. I can put larger pics over there http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/body-paint-s30/48901-new-look-flares-mirrors.html

Installed some Vitalonies today-see what you think. The mirrors are bigger and more "in your face" attitude, but I like them. They are very useful as mirrors, not like my californias I had they before. Better quality then anything I have had before. lot's of adjustement, and I believe they will stay in adjustment all the time. Mirrors are taller , so line of sight is eye level with the driver.

It's hard to picture what you are saying-wish i could see how it fits together. I might still want the aluminum ring, but unpolished-but I will wait to see your offerings!!

A couple of questions; will we beable to purchase the rings(bucks) unfinished- for those of use that would want to paint them? I have never seen a real set in person but always wondered if there was any sealing aspect to the covers. Another words is there a way the covers seal to the headlight bucket to keep moisture out?

I'll add that the pipe ( mild steel) should be degreased before welding. It took me a while to figure out that the small amount of oil residue on the inside of the pipe was messing with my welds

I used a hose clamp as a guide for marking my pipe for a cut. And like John I cut the pipe a bit long so I could clean up the edge and perfect the angle with my 12" circular table sander. The sander was the best investment and I bought a cheap HF version. At 75lbs it is very stable and hasnt given me any issues. The mock up for my duals was done with PVC pipe from Lowes. It gave me an idea of how things would fit

Like said above, a well tuned set of SU's will make for a good running car.

Have you watched the BBC Top Gear covering these cars-it's funny! Jeremy drifts the BRZ while reading a book-it's that easy.

Oh yeah-im interested. Like i said before, you are tapping a small market here, those will sell everywhere!

Let's face it- most of the Z guys are cheap bastards- please don't let me offend anyone, but it seems true. I am always reading of complaints of cost for aftermarket items or used items. Maybe because the perception - even from Z enthusiast - that this is an economy grade classic, so why should I have to pay lots of money for one - regardless of the investment in the car. I am amazed that when selling oem parts- used- no matter how unique or rare- people don't want to spend more than junk rate. Never taking into consideration that a part will be delivered to their door saving time and fuel and frustration of having to find te part. Maybe the Z community is it's own worst enemy. Then there's the stigma of imports. When is the last time you saw a car show advertised and there was no category for imports? The funny thing is that everyone that sees my car thinks it is a more expensive classic - like a Porsche or other. My 2 cents

Man I wanted raised letter tires for my car and couldn't find any in my size-great look!

Why would you want to change a thing-that car is beautiful. Damn, I want the gold Rotas too-LOL Again, that's one of my favorite Z's I've ever seen.

I have 2 out of the three. I will PM you later

The instructions I had were very specific about grounds- like not sharing a ground. Sounds good!

Run the deadhead but try to eliminate the fuel rail that rides right along the hot valve cover. I routed my fuel line along the firewall then straight to the carbs