naviathan

Your check engine light is on....lol Nice work!

Hehe, you know with all of you getting pulled over for suspected DUI I kinda have to wonder about your driving skills....

I blew a .11 one time. I guess I wasn't acting drunk enough though because the cop (County Sheriff) took me back to the bar. I picked my car up later.

Congratz! I'll be lucky to make it to 40 I think....lol

The grade 8 bolts should be fine. I think you'll tear out your u-joints before snapping those.

Standard NKG copper cores with stock gap from the FSM should be fine. Your mods aren't going to change the type or gap of the plugs you're going to need unless you're going super extreme racing engine with some off the wall compression ratio.

My Lincoln 175 has a tapped voltage adjustment and that was the only down fall to the whole thing. It really isn't bad though, as the reference chart inside the cover seems very accurate.

Ok Mario might be on the right track with the tach input from the VR sensor. You don't have any pullup on that do you?

I don't know, maybe we should limit access to the group buys from anyone with less than say 20 posts.

Sounds like corrupted firmware to me. Have you tried reloading it?

MIG with CO2/Argon mix tank and solid mild steel wire. I would recommend a Lincoln 175 or 180.

Wow, that exhaust must be completely empty. It reminds me of the muffler a friend of mine made out of a coffee can as a joke.

I remarked the chain so I should be good to go when I put it back together this time around. I have new exhaust valves coming in from SI on Monday so I should have everything back by Wednesday and hopefully get it most of the way back together before the weekend.

I deleted my ad for my SS valves so I can't look it up, but someone had wanted just the exhaust valves. I still have them as I couldn't use them with my head without doing some major mods to the head and cylinders, so if you're still interested let me know!

Wow...That's a lot of money in that car, but well spent. Don't get rid of it. Your best options are either to buy a semi rust free shell and fix that up until you can swap everything in or just hold onto the car until the kid gets a bit older and you have some time to work on it. I don't know how I got into cars, my father is a mechanical moron and somehow I just happened into the Z scene and have since made it my primary hobby. I have a kid on the way and I fully intend to continue working on the Zs until I can't lift a wrench anymore. It's my stress reliever believe it or not.

Sweet, thanks for that info MONZTER, that will come in handy.

Well, I opted instead to have my machinist cut them down to stock size so we won't need buy new valves just to be safe.

So will this not work without eyebrowing the block? The only reason I'm using these valves is because they're all I have at the right length without pulling apart the other heads.

Thanks to my recent adventures in head work and valve train issues I've had to take my SS valves I was saving for my P90 build and use them in my N42 (They are N series valves not P series). I thought all would be well as they were intended for that type of head in the first place and I didn't read any fitment issues on the website. The valves on arizonazcar.com come in stock and oversized. I got the exhaust in the oversized (3mm) and the intake stock thinking that should be sufficient to improve the flow a bit. Apparently the 3mm oversized exhaust valves are larger than the seats entirely and he would have to cut a bit out of the head for clearance which could cause the HG to not seal... What is the deal here? I wouldn't have figured the fit would be so tight that I wouldn't be able to run this head on anything outside of an over bore...? Anyone have any ideas? HELP!!!! I need this head back quickly! What problems am I looking at?

There's two more bolts. One on either side of the dash at the bottom behind the lower dash covers with the floorboard lights. They'll be in the corners.

Hahahaa, I read this and had an image in my head of it sprouting legs and running around the garage yelling "You can't catch me!!!"....HAHAHA

Not Actually a Real Part

Is the tank baffled? Your fuel could be shifting to the back of the tank and your bowl runs out midway up the track.

The guy probably gets parts whole sale. My machinist gets my head gasket sets for $40, but they're felpro and come with more gaskets than I've ever actually needed.

Check the fuseable links.