naviathan

That's odd that it gets louder with pressure. Every inline gravity feed pump I've used gets quieter with pressure and screams when it's dry.

Well honestly, with the way that thing flies, who cares whether it sounds perfect! Sweet Z!

Only Nissan L series transmissions will fit it without doing a bunch of modifications. The 240SX trans will fit if you swap the bell housings but that requires a bit of machine work. You end up with a better transmission though. Search the forums for transmission swap or transmission upgrades. You should be able to come up with something worth while.

That sounds and looks awesome! The raspy noise is probably from the crossover being post mufflers. It would probably smooth the exhaust note a lot if it was before the mufflers. Unless your mufflers are the glass pack type and not real mufflers. Then I don't think it'll make much difference. My 77 (granted this is the stock l28) has a resonator (Federal model no cat) where the cat would normally reside and that thing makes the exhaust really raspy no matter what muffler I put on the car. Seems like the popping of the exhaust flame into the resonator will echo down the pipe. But I don't have a lot of experience with V8 exhaust so I'm just giving my opinion, nothing to write a book on.

Yeah it is. It's out in the middle of nowhere too. Some of my counterparts are going down to Pendleton on Monday to pick up some equipment, but I'm not sure that I'll be going on that trip. I'll let you know though.

I'm on my way to Barstow, CA for business and will be in the area until the 19th. Any hybridz members interested in hanging out hit me up. These trips get pretty boring after the first few days.

Typically (if I remember correctly) the injectors will have an indicator on one side for the positive. I think on my 370cc injectors the positive is the pin on the right when looking at the socket on the injector. Which I believe was opposite of the red/black wires in the replacement connectors from DIY Auto Tune.

Ok, sounds like you've got it.

Hmmm...What kind of RTV did you use? RTV and head gaskets make me cringe. There is however a high temp copper RTV that might do well in this situation.

Are you sure it's the gasket. Could be a core plug leaking.

Ok, I'm getting ready to finish some things up on my 81. I'm picking up plugs, wires, oil, battery etc... I have a new MSA Stage 4 cam in it and MS-II. What should I get oil wise for this new cam so I don't tear it up while trying to get the MS to crank and run for a bit? I know newer oils are a bad idea because of the lack of zddp. I've heard someone mention using non detergent oil for a first run with a new cam and I've heard some suggest using diesel oil instead and there's also the STP additive for regular oil that increases the zinc phosphates for better wear protection...I've done a lot of reading, but I want to get it right. Engine setup: MSA Stage 4 cam E88 head F54 block stock flattop bottom end 2mm MLS head gasket 360cc injectors Pallnet fuel rail MS-II ECU

My 81 has the drag link style, but it's power assisted. There is a manual rack and pinion out there, but I've only seen mention of it in manuals.

Now I need to find a manual steering ZX...I don't think I've ever seen one around here.

Compression sounds right for a turbo.

I know nobody has mentioned this, but looking at the settings you're doing one squirt per cycle. I had no luck getting my setup to start on that and had to go to two squirts per cycle. Also I've read some people had trouble with alternating injection. I did notice a difference in idle between simultaneous and alternating. Alternating was rough. Switch to two squirts and try simultaneous injection. Also check your plugs after trying to start it. If they're wet, you have way too much fuel. Look at your tables, cold start enrichment, etc... If the plugs are dry with no deposits, see if your injectors are even firing. I had the two fuses on my injectors leads blow one time without me noticing. I never did figure out why but it never happened again. Get an extra set of plugs and a spark plug cleaner from Harbor Freight. It'll save you a lot of time and money. Plugs tend to foul real easy when trying to get this thing started. Turn off and remove your wideband! At least until you get it running. You wouldn't want to damage the sensor just trying to get it started. You need to get it to at least idle on solid tables and maps then add the wideband back in. Another thing that threw me. I was using a GM idle air control and it wasn't working (seems that happens a lot) I had to remove it and just set the idle screw on the throttle body to hold the plate open enough to get it started and idling. Looks through everything. I think your maps are rich too, but that's just from memory (which is very foggy right now). Oh and I don't know about EDIS, but I know a typical setup would never run 0.0 trigger offset.

Probably because carbs are cheaper and easier to get your hands on. Not to mention, where's the fun in having half the work already done for you??? j/k

I have a type II kit for my 77 that's still in the box. The rigid fiberglass is a problem and I haven't even tried mounting it. Just in shipping it looks like it's chipped in a couple places around the edges.

My thoughts exactly!

Lets see the pistons as well. Can't decide on flow with only half the picture.

Try the test with the fuel cap removed. That will eliminate any vacuum problems with the tank causing the issue. If the issue goes away look at the vapor canister and related lines all the way to the tank. When you remove gas from the tank with the pump, you need to displace that fuel with air in the tank. If the vapor lines are clogged you create a vacuum and the pump can't pull fuel. These pumps don't draw much, they're intended for gravity feed almost like a pressure booster for your plumbing.

Wow, great advice there. Very profound statement, especially the like women part.

$200 - pull the head and shave it a bit. New head gasket set and a good deck shave will make a world of difference.

The filler neck does not vent. If you were to remove the vapor canister you would need to move the vent line someplace where it's away from the passenger cabin, but still out of the elements. Frankly, I'd just leave it alone. The stock system works just fine so long as the vacuum diaphragm on top doesn't break.