naviathan

Haha!

Yeah that 7 gallon isn't going to keep up with anything. I have nail guns that will run that dry in no time at all.

Sounds fairly normal to me. I wouldn't worry about it much honestly. So long as it's running good and there's no blue smoke it should be fine. Just keep an eye on it and check the oil every so often to make sure it's not getting run thin from fuel mixing.

If you pull the cluster and remove the speedo look behind the face plate and there's a coil spring you can use to adjust tension on the speedo arm. I used this method to adjust my 130mph speedo using a GPS as reference. got it to within 1-2mph of the GPS at any given speed.

Hopefully I won't have to replace the entire injector output circuit in this thing. Granted the parts are cheap, but I hate replacing those little transistors, I need Asian hands and better eyes for those little pins, lol.

Hey Pete, Normally I would just lightly pry it up from the ends with a screw driver. Unfortunately, this one doesn't want to give at all. Tonight I think I'm going to reflow the solder around the socket pins and hopefully the heat will break the daughter board pins free a bit so I can get it up. I don't think the person that put it together is the problem. I'm starting to think it's the previous owner that didn't know what he was doing and once he realized he did more damage than he could repair, he chucked it off on ebay. Unfortunately our friend junglist was taken by this guy. Fortunately however he didn't pay much for it.

Oh I got all that. I'm just trying to figure out what could have caused all this damage. I've already cut the fried trace back and replaced it with a jumper wire. The only thing stopping me from powering it up with the stim is that I can't get the damned daughter board off. I don't want to find there's more problems and possibly blow that out as well. It's like the board is soldered in place, but the socket is there (albeit the socket is cracked and broken in places). I'm going to see if I can't find a chip puller at work to put some even pressure on it so it doesn't risk cracking. This poor board has been through hell, I think I cna bring it back though.

If you think it's related to the head you put on, it could be the valve stem seals. If the guides haven't been changed they could be worn and despite good seals oil could be leaking from play in the valve stems movement. Did the shop check the head over, or did you have them actually do some machine work on it? Sometimes taking a head to a shop and asking them to look it over doesn't give them much incentive to actually put any effort to it. They may have checked the gasket surfaces and let it go at that. The only way to check the seals would be if they had removed the valve springs at a minimum.

Matt, I have junglist's MS box right now. I've been going over this thing pretty close and here's what I have so far: U4 - Obviously toast. D19 - short closed. It was wide open to ground. My battery died in my DMM after this so I don't trust any of the readings I got from here on. Also, The circuit trace from the negetive side of C16 to the ground leg of U5 was being held together by a giant ball of solder. The trace was pealed off the board. Once I get a 9V to replace the one in my DMM I'll know more, but as it stands it looks like this box took either a heavy voltage spike, or someone crossed a hot and ground lead during their setup. What are your thoughts?

Careful running it with that wideband in there. With the mixtures not being right you can easily destroy the sensor by running for a prolonged period. If you're not tunning I would pull it and put a plug in the hole just to save the sensor.

I haven't updated in a while so I guess now is a good time. The N42 head is toast. I tried porting it myself and cut into the water jackets. Sadly I thought porting an L28 head would be like porting anything else. Well despite the porting guides on the net you do not want to cut into the short side radius of a L series head. Lesson learned, maybe one day I'll find a way to repair it or find another N42 to work with. For now I've pulled the E88 from my 77. Interesting thing that 77. It has a 260 block and head that were both bored to a 2.8L and had new seats and valves installed the same size as the N42. Good thing too because I was able to swap my swirl polished stainless valves right over. So, I made some port measurements this time. Come to find out, the E88 ports are so much larger than the intake runners that the only thing I can think that really needs to be done to them is smooth the walls down. So, maybe one day in the future, but for now I haven't the time. I have all my parts in finally, including the .220 and .260 lash pads I was waiting on. Time is not my friend however. Any time I do have is spent with the many other projects I have going on. So, maybe by summer I'll have my Z back...Maybe.

How much are you looking to pay for one. I have a kit sitting on my desk for a buddy that probably isn't going to be used for a while. It's an MS-II. All I'd have to do is assemble it and ship it, but if you're looking for something cheap and used, sorry, don't have on of those...yet. I also have a universal harness, but again, I'd have to make enough off it to replace it.

That is, but it isn't. That looks like someones fiberglass race body kit with a suedo g-nose look. This is the best pic I could find on google images of a g-nose.

Could be bad valve guide seals allowing a bit of oil in those cylinders.

Go ahead nismopick, try and order one. You'll get an email within 24 hours telling you they're not in stock and they have no ETA on when they will be receiving them again.

I'm going to guess that this is the same random wire that everyone asks about eventually. No clue where it goes, it's just there. Is it black and white? I think? Can't remember, but I know this comes up all the time.

Umm, what parts are you in need of? I have lots of parts lying around and most of what was a parts car outside.

Seperate the wires and turn the ignition on. You should get a good 12V on one wire measured against ground (or batt. neg.) Although on the stock injectors it might not matter, you also might not want to take the risk. If you ever plan on upgrading to decent injectors you'll want the polarity right.

In that case, prepare to be very disappointed in the performance. But as for your problem, it's hard to tell what's wrong without some more indepth trouble shooting. Are you getting spark? Fuel? Fuel Pressure? Injector Power? Timing? What do the plugs look like? Details man details....

The EFI harness doesn't go any further under the dash than the ECU and a single switched power from the ignition switch. The EFI relay is likely suspect as well as the fusible links. Just because they make contact and look ok, doesn't mean they are. I've seen links corrode inside the spade connector around the wire making it hard to see and almost impossible to test as a problem. Having completely removed my EFI harness for MS I know it rather well...sadly.

Welcome! Always good to see new members saving more Datsuns. So how fast can you get up to before hitting the end of the island? (joking)

Yes you can. The aftermarket retainers (aka valve spring "hats") have the same keepers as the the stock Nissan ones.

While it's off you might want to look into some ARP studs just for good measure. What model head are you replacing it with? Yes clean the WD-40 off before reassembly. For proper torque it's good to clean the head bolt holes with a thread chaser and parts cleaner.

That is the reason, but sometimes things get lost in translation I think. You always have people that despite our best efforts use our lovely forums for selfish and unbecoming means.

No worries, it happens to all of us.