naviathan

What effect would having my input trigger set to rising trigger have on the MS? I must have forgotten to change that to Rising as Matt pointed out to me in an email today.

The connector for the fuel pump is behind the seats under the carpet and padding in the deck. Check out http://carfiche.com for the 82 FSM. It has the wiring diagrams and information you need to figure it out.

I agree. Even at the end when the truck goes skidding back into traffic the other cars don't even so much as tap their brakes. Lots of smoke around the base of the truck and the video gets really crappy (as though it could get worse) at the time of the hit. And where'd the car go?

That's just messed up. It looked to me like the guy was out of the road, just not completely off into the grass. Isn't that what wide shoulders are for?

They really look like those cheap American Racing rims I see all the time on little Ford and Chevy pick-ups.

Believe it or not it does. The shaft is a tight fight anyway and screw just locks it down even more. I haven't had it slip yet. Every time I check my TDC the rotor is in the same place it was before.

Ok, here's my locked out distributor setup. Not having the mechanical unit in place enables me to be able to adjust the rotor alignment by simply loosening the top screw and turning it to where ever I need it aligned to. Still figuring that part out though. Just though everyone would be interested in seeing this.

Hehe, not to side track or anything, but I thought it was Miss Snuk? It's about time you started checking out the forums.

Will do. I completely removed the mechanical advance on mine and welded the advance plate for the vacuum to the base plate. This way if I need to re phase my rotor button all I do is loosen the screw in the top of the shaft and turn it then tighten it back down. I think I need to turn my rotor button again. Tonight I'll probably pull out the distributor and start tearing it back down again. I'll probably swap out the pick ups and leave the reluctor coil in as it ohms out good and provides a good signal. Not to mention I already extended the wires on it. They're soldered and heat shrink wrapped with and extra 3" of wire to bring it out of the dizzy a bit more. The thing that is killing me right now is that when I try to physically adjust my dist it pushes the timing really far ATDC. Just to get it to start I had to set the trigger to -10 (10 ATDC) so something is way out. I realized the irony of my whole situation last night. I've built several of these MS-II ECus for other people and so far I haven't had a complaint. They load the configs and go, but when I go to install one myself, I can't get things going for nothing.

Yeah I did a search on your screen name and figured out you were running an HEI module. I've been working with Matt Cramer and hopefully I'll have this going shortly.

What year Z do you have? The mirrors you'll want to use will be different depending on the year of the Z. The ZX Fairlady had electric mirrors very similar to the ones on the doors with a different angle at the base. The Z Fairlady had non electric very basic mirrors and you'd be able to use some of the universal roadster mirrors you find on eBay. They look similar and should be easy enough to mount. I'm considering this one myself. Here's the mounting for the Z mirrors:

The flashing on the MS just means you're getting a tach signal. You can try two things: 1. Pull the coil wire off the dist. and put a plug on it and see if it sparks there. 2. Try swapping the signal wires out of the CAS. If I'm not mistaken it should be a VR type sensor and could be reversed. I'm still playing with my VR sensor, but I'm using the one in the stock N/A dist. Your problem sounds similar to mine and I'm about where you are as far as frustration goes.

I'm curious. How did you setup your ignition timing?

Ok I think I'm getting there. I got the car started with a slightly modded spark table. I'm going to fiddle with it some more, but suffice it to say I had to hold it around 2kRPM and hit it with the gun to check. Seems I'm really close if not on at around -10 Trigger Offset. So either my eyes or crooked or there's a variable I didn't take into consideration when lining everything up. Either way I think I'm down to fuel. I found one person running a setup really close to mine and it seems he's using 17.4 as his required fuel. Sounds a bit rich, but I suppose I need to keep in mind the stock injectors are only 188cc. Surprisingly that's about what the generate req fuel comes up with. So hopefully my next post will be a successful start up and idle at least.

The more and more I think about this the more I keep thinkg my trigger offset should be somewhere around 0. At TDC with my timing mark on 0 and all things right, my rotor points directly at the number one plug position on the cap. If the Advance table is changing the timing accordingly then I should have to do nothing more than set it at 0 and make all adjustments in the advance table. Why is it not like this? Can someone please explain this concept so I have a better understanding of it?

You know it's really weird, I can build these ECUs all day long and not have a problem, but trying to get one working in a car is just insane.

Ok I apparently need some serious help here. The ignition settings are killing me. I have an adjustable timing light so it helps to see where things are at. The only way I can get the thing to start and stay running is to open the throttle plate as much as I can with the adjustment screw and set the Trigger Advance at 40*. It's a very high idle and the car warms up quick, but the plugs are black and sooty. When I put the adjustable on and MS is saying to set at ~23* I can get my timing mark back to 0 by turning the adjustable to 57*. Ok so the way I see it, it wants 23*, roughly, so if I set the trigger advance from 40* to 74* {(57* - 23*) + 40* = 74*} It should work right? Negative. Nada zip zilch. As soon as I change my Trigger Advance it stumbles and dies. Ideas? Is my thinking accurate? I'm no mathematician, but I'm not horrible at math. Maybe I'm just looking at this wrong.

I replaced my FP Relay driver (ZTX450) with a 2N2222 from Radio Shack. I'm now getting a fuel pump LED on the stim again so hopefully this will be the last screw up I make. Seems I'm slowly rebuilding my MS-II one blown component at a time.

I do it too. When I see a Z around here I'm going to check it out just for fun.

Use a stim. That's how I knew my VB was bad. Well that and the smell. It wasn't until I pulled it off that I saw the cracks in it.

Got it, that sounds more like what I'm getting. Does it matter that the tach wire is putting 12V to the negative side of the coil?

I tried disconnecting all my sensors, injectors and relays except the EFI relay and still, nothing on pin 37. I'm utterly confused.

Ok I just Ohmed out my harness. I'm getting good grounds where there's suppose to be grounds and I'm getting my hot on pin 28 as I'm suppose to, but I'm getting bleed over on the fuel pump relay and the injectors. When I key on I'm getting 12V at all the injector leads and at the fuel pump lead on pin 37. Should I be using diodes in here? I know the nature of a coil is to read 12V until the ground is switched and it activates so I assume these readings are accurate. Am I correct in this thought?

Ok I connected it to the car and I'm getting nothing on pin 36 when it's detached from the coil. It seems the tach wire is putting out 12V however. Pin 36 just seems to bounce around while connected. I ohmed out the wire to the DB37 and it's fine. I ohmed it to all the other wires and I'm not getting anything. Nothing to ground either, but with the MS connected and key on I'm not getting anything. Thoughts?

So does ~3.3V count as a positive voltage that's not too low? I checked it on the stim (which is fed by a 12V power supply) and that's what I got.