naviathan

Hmmmm....Wow....That must have been an airliner for you...WAYYYYY overhead. It was a joke. Do you honestly believe a muffler bearing exists? Check other things on that site...They have Elbow Grease...Come On...

No your problem isn't in the tranny. You need one of these: http://kalecoauto.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=3&products_id=10

18x8 and 18x9? What offset and what are you putting them on? Planning to roll fenders and use spacers?

I dunno...That's a lot of bad comments in the last month in my oppinion. That doesn't include the numerous neutral comments I passed that said the item was wrong, but not worth return, or broken etc.. etc..

The seller has a 96% feedback rating...That's not good.

Pull the plugs and pour Marvel's Mystery Oil in the cylinders. Let sit for 24 hours and then try turning it over. Worked on a VW pancake engine once. Didn't even take it apart, just ran it from there.

From my experience with the Tokico HP shocks and springs on a ZX, they're kinda stiff. I have stock springs and struts on my ZX though and hitting a pothole or railroad tracks is rough, but my buddies 83 with the Tokicos is like hitting a curb when theres anything on the road. I'd like to go that route one day simply because it's nice and stiff for cornering, but for right now, I'll stick with stock and get larger rims to improve my handling some. So long as these stock springs don't start to sag like my olds ones did it's fine.

I would takes some emry clothe and buff down any rust before trying to slide the seal over it. Put a little grease around the outside and inside of the seal before putting it on. Use a small rubber mallet and tap around it carefully to get it in. Or you could do it the right way and get the appropriate install tool listed in the FSM.

NO DON"T DO IT!!!! Hahahaha... My father inlaw told me he didn't want her back...Should have known right then and there...

You wouldn't happen to have a black Z with what looked like a gold lion on the hood would you?

I'd check late 80s Suburbans and trucks.

JSTARS? Get in touch with General Dynamics IT and check out their job listings. We cover the JSTARS system. I assume of course you already have a TS-SCI so getting a job with GD would be easy.

The switch itself has two screws holding it to the back of the locking cylinder. it will require a small stubby phillips to remove them. You don't need to remove the whole assembly that connects to the steering column.

Recreational Phamaceutical Distribution? I don't think I want to know, but what exactly is that?

Haha...You enlarge things for a living and you need a shrink...lol

YES! One of these days I'll get back on my 77 project. I barely got started and have been doing so much other crap I haven't had time to get back to it.

What do you mean what happened to it? He has coilpacks and a crank trigger setup instead.

Nice...Wish I could get into a field like that.

Nice clean setup, but what waws the issue. Embarrasing or not it might help someone else...

If it was something in the hub assembly it would have play all the way around, not just lateraly. Sounds like a ball joint to me. Have you checked that? When I tighten the hub nut down on mine I go until it just starts to drag the hub when it spins and lock it down. Never had any problems aside from the hub that was worn out. The races would drop in and out with any pressure, but that was from the previous owner.

Jokes nothing...In todays world everyone needs a lawyer whether they think they do or not.

I'm a Computer Technician with General Dynamics Information Technology working under a Marine Corps contract. Been at this for 3 years and was a computer hardware tech in the Army for 4.5 years before this. I'm 26 now so I have lots of time to further things.

The previous owner of my 81 disconnected the door chime because it would keep going after the door was shut. All the lights went out properly, but the chime kept going. I readjusted the door strikers and everything works properly.

The muffler shop you went to are idiots. First things first, are you running a header? If not, get one first. If you are running a header than any competent muffler shop can run the pipe at the width you want and stick new hangers in where needed. I you're not running a header then they would have to use your old factory exhaust as a flange because of the oddbal outlet on the stock manifold and then they could step up to the size you want, but it's practically pointless unless all you're doing is changing the pitch. For the muffler, it will fit in the stock location and you can run chrome tips out. Otherwise it will require making space somewhere under the car and a whole lot of fab work to get the dual pipes to fit around the suspension and out where you want it. Stick it in the stock spot and run tips, it's easier.