naviathan

That was going to be my suggestion was checking the alt output. It would be dropping low at idle due to worn brushes and picking up enough juice when spun up to smooth things out. If you have the money and the tools I would do the GM alt conversion and get a 100A alt from JC Whitney ($89 not sure what shipping is). My alt is taking a crap again and I'm tired of messing with the Nissan alts. They cost too much and you have to wait for it to come in. If you get the cheap ones though they don't last more than 3 months. Gm alts are common, put out more amperage and are cheaper. Does anyone else know of a good place to get the 100A GM alts cheap? JC Whitney is the best I've found so far. Just make sure when you're buying one that you get it with a single groove pulley to match. Unless you want to go with a serpentine system like the ones that Z Race Products offers.

There was a huge thread on this guy at zcar.com as well. The guy he did this too last time was waiting a year before he got anything back on it. Even then it was just his money back I think.

Pull the TTops and apply a heavy coat of parts cleaner. The chemicals in parts cleaner will make the rubber expand. Leave it on there for an hour then wipe it off and apply either baby oil or vaseline to keep it from drying out. EDIT: You may have to this several times depending on how bad the weather stripping is. I did this on my 81ZX. It took three times because the rubber had shrunk so much, but it worked. My seats aren't wet anymore when it rains.

True, but on the same level humans evolved and taught each other communication skills and science and such. Animals haven't made it that far yet. They have some basic reasoning, but no real cognative processes.

Don't ask me. At 135 you turn the steering wheel in either direction without the car moving. Now whether it was completely off the ground or not I don't know, but the front wasn't moving. The factory air dam was broken off on the car. Looked like the PO hit a curb with it.

My 81ZX I had in high school would pick the front tires up off the ground at 135mph. That is really scarey.

The two going through the firewall are for the heater core and must be replaced as a pair. Fortunately they're cheap and you can get them from courtesy nissan. The other lines are simple and can be made from cut to fit pieces at the local parts store. I would suggest replacing all these lines at the same time.

Probably not relevent (I hope) but sumitomo has been sued many times for tire defects. This is a little info from one of the cases. In its case against Sumitomo and Dunlop, the plaintiffs contended that internal defects in the tire ultimately caused the blow out. The wire cord construction of the Dunlop SP4N tire allowed moisture to migrate throughout the tire's steel belts which lead to internal rusting of the tire. Dunlop internal records indicated that they were aware of this design defect for a year and a half prior to the manufacture of this particular tire. Dunlop internal records also revealed claims for blow outs caused by internal rusting of steel belts in similar tires. No consumer warnings were ever issued by Sumitomo or Dunlop to alert potential purchasers or tire owners of the possibility of internal rusting and subsequent rupturing of SP4N tires. "The tire company knew about the internal rust problems associated with this particular tire and made no effort to alert the consumer. Our client and his family have suffered severely and irreparably because of their negligence," stated Don Fountain when the settlement was reached. The tire in question was also warranted for the useful life of the tread irrespective of the chronological age of the tire itself. The tires on the MG were examined following the accident and, while ten years old, were found to have legal and sufficient tread depth to remain under the company warranty. Sumitomo Rubber Industries Limited of Japan and its distributor Dunlop Tire Corporation have agreed to pay $4.5 million with the remainder of the $4.9 million settlement to be paid by the owners of the MG and the owner of the semi tractor/trailer.

Good point about the pads. An old timers trick for this (I'm not saying this is right, but it does work) is to get up to speed on the highway and ride the brakes for a few seconds, let off for a minutes then ride them again and do it until they even out and the shaking should stop unless you warp the rotors.

84 I know was 4 lug and I thought 85 was as well. I'm not big on the 300zx, but I'm pretty sure it was 88 that people were using for the conversion. Maybe 86-88? Sorry I don't have a positive answer, but seeing as no one has replied yet I figured I would put my $.02 in.

Yes a series sequential turbo setup would be easier, but there is a lot less efficiency in it. You loose a lot of flow to the second turbo because of the first turbo. The parrallel turbos would be expensive, but if you're not looking at cost it seems to me it would be the way to go for all out power throughout the RPM range. On side note, I think it's funny we haven't heard from the thread originator since the first post.

Very true. Animals have proven that they are capable of mathematics and construction and problem solving. The thing that sets humans out from the rest though is that we evolved into these abilities and animals have to be trained to progress them. Eventually I'm sure some other species of animal will eveolve the route that humans have, but that's only if we quit destroying their homes and killing them off.

Yes balancing the system would be difficult, but with a standalone engine management it would be possible to balance each cylinder individually. You could account for the difference in back pressures through the AFR. The initial setup would be the hardest part as you would need an oxygen sensor per cylinder, but I think the overall results would be incredible.

That's what I couldn't figure out. The WS6 started in 82, but I couldn't find any info on it in the 4th gens until 97. Interesting.

2JZ=6 Cyl. 2 Manifolds = 3 cylinders per turbo Turbo 1 = Small compressor large turbine wastegate to second manifold Turbo 2 = Large compressor Small turbine single standard wastegate The larger turbine on the smaller turbo allows it spin up fast and reach peak boost quickly. The smaller turbine on the larger turbo spins up slower and is given a quick burst as the first turbos wastegate opens allowing the second turbo to maintain the boost into the upper RPMs. I think you covered this idea in your lists up there, but it was a little confusing the way some of that was worded. I think this would be optimal though.

Agreed, I'd check the joints and also the drums. If it's warped it could be causing a scrape as the warp passed the shoes on each side which could sound like a click if it's barely brushing a tip on the pads or something.

Loose ball joints, tie rods and worn steering knuckles are often culprit as well. Check it all and check it right.

Although Pop could be right, this is also a 280ZX and the heater core and bypass lines are on that side of the engine. I'd be willing to bet it's a pinhole leak from one of the. Get it hot and pull the lines around. If it's a hole it will get worse when stretched. I've had to replace all these lines on my 81ZX in the last year.

He probably could have stuck that corner had he not slammed on the damned brakes. He was probably looking at his lead in the rearview and wasn't paying attention. I think that race would have been garbage results anyhow. It really wouldn't have said anything about the cars, just the drivers.

According to the TEC3 manual the display readout on the TEC software is giving output at a multiple of 5. This means that the actual sensor reading is between 0V-1V. The software inturn boosts that signal reading to make adjustments easier showing an output of 0V-5V. It also says that a 0V is lean and 1V is rich. Maybe this was redesigned from the TEC2, but I couldn't imagine it being that much different given that they use the same tuning software. I would be worried that you're pushing to hot a signal back to the ECU and blowing something. If it's expecting an input of 0V-1V and getting something near 3v-5v then it could be screwing up the ECU. Just food for thought.

The did that with a 2.3L QUAD Four that was bored out through the water jackets and sleeved down to a 2.0L then twin turbo charged. It was a monster of an engine. I had Grand Am with a 2.3L QUAD in it and it was awesome. That engine in stock form would walk on everything I raced outside of a V8. The only thing I hated was working on it. It's huge with dual overhead cams and the water pump and timing is really wierd. Great car though. Man I miss that one.

Well, I don't know. If your carbs and intake are new then I can see your price as being reasonable, but if they're used then I would bring it down a bit. Anyone with the money for that setup will have the head opened up to breath better before hand. Unfortunately I think 50mm is way to big for anything on the street. It would work, but it would be overkill. I have the tripple side draft throttle bodies with the electromotive engine management package from TEP. Still haven't had time to get it all together. One of these days....

Just incase anyone is unsure, basically what i'm saying is the WS6 has always been an option and started as just a suspension and braking upgrade, but has advanced to the body kit and slight performance improvements due to a beefier exhaust.

1982 In 1982, the 3rd Generation Firebirds were introduced: Firebird, Firebird S/E, and Firebird Trans Am. The Firebird was the base model, equivalent to the Camaro Sport Coupe, the Firebird S/E was a higher option level which could be loaded with more options than the Trans Am. The Trans Am was the highest performance level for the Firebird. The Firebird and Camaro got a new front end, with two pop-up headlights for the Firebird, and four exposed units for the Camaro. In addition to being 500 lb lighter, the new Firebird was the most aerodynamic production Firebird to date. Wind tunnels were used to form the body shape. The aerodynamic developments extended to the finned aluminum wheels with smooth caps and a functional spoiler. The Trans Am received a turbo bulge hood styled loosely off the earlier turbo Trans Am. Plans had originally been made to use the Pontiac 4.9 turbo, but it was scrapped at the last minute. The hood remained and was made fuctional for the Cross-fire injected 305. The S/E could be had with every option the Trans Am could, but didn't use the bulged hood. Leather seating was also available on all models. Firebirds were available with several engines. The standard fuel injected 90 hp 2.5L 4 cylinder Pontiac Iron Duke, a 102 hp 2.8L V6, and two 5.0L V8's. The first and most common was the LG4, a basic carburetor equipped 305 producing 145 hp. The other was a new fuel injected 305 using a fuel injection system similar to the 82 Corvette's 5.7L and producing 165 hp. The base Firebird came standard with 14" steel wheels. 14" aluminum and 15" aluminum wheels were available on the SE and Trans Am. Pontiac had also hoped to drop all the "Trans Am" badges from the new cars to save royalties paid to the SCCA for use of the name. Early promotional cars were marked "T/A" as an alternative, however the production cars came marked as Trans Am regardless. The WS6 option, available on the SE's and Trans Am's included 4 wheel disc brakes, P215/65R15 Goodyear Eagle GT radials with 15" cast aluminum wheels, stiffer springs, thicker front and rear sway bars, a high ratio 12.7:1 steering box, and limited slip rear differential. The Trans Am came with the two 305 Chevy V8s as Pontiac V8s were no longer being produced. The four-speed manual transmission came with the four-barrel carbureted version that put out a milquetoast 145 horsepower, while the Cross-Fire injected 305 rated at 165 horses came with the automatic transmission. With either drivetrain, the newest Trans Am was no match for the 5.0 Mustang GT that took the performance car revival by storm that year thanks to its High Output 302, which started out with a two-barrel carb, 157 horses and a Top-Loader four-speed transmission to move the muscle, but the Mustang was much lighter than the Camaro or Firebird and the 302 engine had a much better assortment of high performance parts than the Chevy small block forced on Pontiac. Its dimesions were reduced, wheel base was shortened, and weight reduced. It was also the closest in size to the 67 yet. Road & Track selected the 82 Firebird Trans Am as 1 of the 12 best cars in the world along with the Camaro. It won Best Sports GT category in the $11,000 to $14,000 range with the Camaro. It was also the 1st time a 4 cylinder was available in a Firebird. The windshield slope was 60 degrees, about 3 degrees steeper than anything GM ever tried before.

It's really not that difficult if you have the tools and such to make it. You'd have to build a stand to support the motor mounts with the engine. I was considering a U shape cross member supported by two triangles of either pipe or angle iron. You could bolt the starter in place without a transmission using nuts and washers then make support to hold the radiator up. Everything else is simple, but make sure you have some kind of fan to circulate the air and keep the engine cool.