naviathan

I don't know about the quality, but I'm not seeing a video at all.

Pontiacs are well known for bad MAP sensors and throttle sensors. I had a grand am that had both go bad. Different times of course, but I believe it was the map that caused the stuttering problems.

Hmmm, have you checked the oil pressure sending unit? If it's bad or if the plug isn't making a good connection etc... it won't start. One of the kill switches for the later ECUs is the oil sender.

Check your injectors with a multimeter. They are negetive switched so you should have a constant hot on one side and a pulsed ground on the other. You don't always hear the injectors and if the engine isn't starting then you won't here them. Make sure you have that hot side. If the hot side isn't there then you could have a bad efi fusible link or a bad efi relay.

Could be the tensioner sticking. If all they did was clean up the head then it's probably the original timing chain, guides and tensioners. The sound could just be the chainloading up against the guides, which are probably very worn out by now. Pull that cover and give it a good run down.

Starters are fairly cheap and easy to come by. Good luck.

It probably would work, but where are you going to find a Typhoon or Cyclone? If I ever came across one I'd buy it and fix it up. Those things are worth a lot of money because they were such limited production.

Sounds like you have lots of ideas there.

I'll trade you my 77 280Z for that 240Z. Anything to save another series one from getting trashed. Not saying I'm against a hybridz, but a 240 can be worth something and should be saved as much as possible.

Probably need a new starter. Also clean the battery connections and use some dielectric grease on them.

One of these days maybe I'll get one. Until then I'll make do with the internet and books.

What can I say, there were a few hotties in south TX. Wait that wasn't right? Ummmm....Nevermind...lol I think I just got baited into that one.

I've thought about this one as well. IIRC the turbo tranny is higher geared so you might feel a little more sluggish off the line. On the upside though it's a much stronger tranny than the NA and will last much much longer. Wish I had one. You'll need the driveshaft out of the turbo as well. I believe it's shorter.

Haha, recreating that feeling you get after eating mexican.

Ok, Tony, I see where you're saying there could be a pulse during the overlap from exhaust to intake. I don't see that happening however because the piston dropping as the intake opens would neutralize any pressure difference before pulling from the intake and closing the exhaust. I'd really rather not start a huge debate on this subject, but as I've said before Tony is extremely intelligent in these areas. On this particular point though I think I'd have to disagree. An exhaust gets a huge burst of pressure being released where as an intake is a smooth flow drawing in and a slight push out. The pressure in the intake neutralizes before changing direction therefore stopping any sort of pulse from being created. Anti-reversion efforts are used in intakes to help balance the tranistions from cylinder to cylinder and keep from creating a huge positive pressure pocket within the intake that could cause things like pre-fire which can seriously damage seals, sensors, injectors, jets, valves, etc... When you start doing some serious fine tuning for things like that you're looking at a high race engine with a heavy cam and lots of overlap. Anyhow, I digress. Again, I need a white board.

Shopping cart - Free (stolen from shopping center) Ramp - Free (scrap wood) flaming arch - $2.05 a gallon of gas Picture of one of your friends pushing you through a flaming arch while you try to jump out - Priceless. "LOOK MA, I'M AN IDIOT!!!!" And the progression of human evolution stops here.... Shopping cart kidnapper... Hey, what are the pads for? OH SH!T!!! Boy this helmet is dark...Where are we going?

Have we checked the points? Unless someone upgrade the distributer you should have a set of points that probably need to be cleaned and adjusted or replaced. If it has been upgraded then it could be the ignition module. Now this is assuming it's a spark problem. You need to have three things to run: Spark, Fuel and Air. Make sure you have all three and we can go from there. I'm bettering on spark though. Unless....you didn't mention doing anything to the carbs. They've been sitting and probably need to be rebuilt. Check it out and see what's up.

It helps a little with sealing, but the main reason is that it's tacky and will hold the gasket in place while putting the head on.

The pulses created in a header are caused by positive pressure bursts into the runner. An intake has a negetive pressure therefor doesn't suffer the same pulses as a header. Even in a forced induction, the pressure being pushed into the intake is steady and doesn't have pulses or they are negligible. The principles to keep in mind with an intake is air speed, fuel atomization, and air fuel metering. When an intake valve closes the air obviously comes to halt. Thanks to valve overlap the flow isn't just stopped instantly, which would cause a sudden pulse, but it is slowed by the the piston pushing up before the valve closes. It's really hard to explain with out a whiteboard and some representative drawings.

Who said anything about professional? MS is paying us a percentage to tout their product... j/k

I've seen very few early z cars around here in eastern NC. When I do see one I give a honk and a wave and they usually look at me like I'm insane. So the ones that do have them here are driving them because they're cheap and reliable for the most part. I've only seen one person with a nice restored Fairlady Z. And that car rarely makes it out of the garage.

knowing the guys at zraceproducts from the forum interactions I've had they seem like great guys and they stand behind their products. Stop by the forum and give a shout. I'm moderator there so I'll definetely respond.

Well, it's a step up. I'm already currently working a general hardware support contract for several Marine Corps projects, but it's a simple tech position that involves more admin work than I'd like and A LOT less tech work. So this is definetely more the route I want to go.

It's a senior tech position working a Marine Corps project called COC (Command Operations Center). Currently we call them cocks, but if I get the job at least it will be true...lol

My welding teacher in HS said, "Just because it looks like ♥♥♥♥ doesn't mean it won't hold and if it holds, grinders can do wonders with appearance."