Snailed

Power

I like that idea. Do you ever glance down and blind yourself?

Good to hear! Glad you like the multilink. I'm doing something like that too. So you are using a PWM out from the Link to step the pump voltage to they are quieter when less fuel is needed? I have used pump controlers before, but never for noise!

It says they just came out this month, so probably not. You would have to run a pretty large spacer to make these work with stock suspension since they have a 6.3" backspace.

I vote for a bright metallic orange cover.

A bead roller is quick and ea$y, but it's not that hard to just tap out beads with a hammer and punch and save yourself a bunch of money. Clamping two pieces of wood on the back to form a gap will help make it faster and straighter. Also consider pressing a round rod into the metal to make the bead and just shrinking the wrinkles out from around it with a tuck and hammer or heat.

Swap the calipers and see if the problem is them or the lines. Should be easy to tell with an IR thermometer.

It's best to strip the area and bring it a shop that can braze it and leak test their work for you. I would try a radiator shop first. Leave a hose running in it for a while to flush out any left over fuel, then run air into it for a few hours to dry it all up before you bring it.

You don't have to use those locking ones if you don't want to. I would if they are in good shape though.

Don't bother with the dremel. Those are for making models and stuff. If your endtanks are cast you might be surprised how thick it is where you need to cut it. Some of the ones I have cut up were nearly 3/8" in spots. I agree with everyones suggestions. It's less than a 5min job with a bandsaw, portaband, sawz-all and even a proper cut off wheel in a grinder. Whoever is welding it will have the tools to cut it also. Make friends with them now.

Cast steel welds really nice. What do you think all those fabricated pipe manifolds are made out of? Cast steel weld els. You can get very good boost control buy welding a large tube right where an internal WG would have a hole into the volute of the turbine housing. Give it a little angle for better flow and it will flow enough for even the lowest boost levels.

This is old but I found it interesting to read. I have a couple tech things to add too. First, I think someone tried to correct maichor earlier, in that the Q45 uprights are aluminum, not cast steel. I have a complete subframe from a '92 Q45 and they are made of aluminum. Also, someone asked about the subframe/suspension weight. Mine is complete (vlsd R200) except for rotors, calipers and struts and weights exactly 250lbs. Granted it is much wider than the S30 track in stock form but it still seems about 100-120lbs heavier than the stock setups with an R200. How much to the hubs, mustache bar, diff mount, controlarms, axles/shafts weigh? shortnose r200 is 86lbs? I'm going to try and take off about 50lbs (narrowing (10"?), removing harmonic weights, shortening front arms slightly, replacing cast steel arms with aluminum etc.) I will weigh what I cut out and unbolt from the car when I do it and post what I get.

I used one on my old turbo honda setup too. One of the advantages is if you have a slow reacting IAT sensor and it's mounted in the intake manifold it will help prevent the sensor from getting heatsoaked and forcing the engine to run in an area of the IAT compensation tables that don't actually represnt the air temperature. Air doesn't conduct heat very well and considering how fast it goes through an intake manifold, I really don't think the spacers do too much in the way of lowering intake temps but I'm sure they do help a little.

Nice, I was planning on doing something like that on mine but just welding the plate in and painting over it when I finish the body work. I like my feet too!

You get get GM/Delphi/weatherpack connectors as you need them from NAPA if you don't feel like ordering a whole box. I use them all the time and they are one of my favorite types of electrical plug.

Nothing wrong with overbuilding it. From what I hear they are one of the innovators in that industry. I work with a guy that builds circle track chassis and he likes their racks a lot. I guess the customers prefer sweet and a some other one I can't seem to remember, for cost reasons though.

They let you MIG weld 4130?

I have read about people swapping over entire systems from newer cars. I'm assuming the factory ones have a better feel since they have so much more time into the programming and materials r&d. I think the AP1 s2000 is a non CANBUS system so you could wire it up just by feeding the right signals or voltage to each pin on the steering module. I have no idea is if the honda rack is even usable on a Z but it's an interesting idea...plus the modules are going for about $90 on ebay so the price is right. I saw a few of the column munted motors for under $200 on ebay too.

They are around $2-2500. Didn't mean to derail your thread JM I like the part in the woodward tech about the baffle in the PS resevior. I build them sometimes at work and reading that makes me want to improve my baffle designs. Most of the ones provided by the aftermarket have none or poor (accoring to woodward) baffling. I'm curious what the woodward one looks like. I usually position a piece of aluminum at a slight (15-20 degree) angle and maybe 5/8"-3/4" away from the inlet. Or I have made a V shape the dispered the stream to either side, below the fluid level when running.

It's always interesting to see how different people work sheetmetal. Post up pics if you're inclined to take some for us.

Oh, autocad is such a specific format. If you're making one by hand then you could really use any type of a print to go by. I find it hard to believe your original one it so bad it can't be measured off though. I build panels and parts from barely existing parts all the time. You just need to be a good detective.

I like the tank you had made. The craftsmanship looks good. Does the stock level sending unit account for the bulk of the fuel volume being in the bottom of the tank? I know the autometer one does not. It's a bit of a blessing to have it read a little lower than the actual level but I think it's a bit extreme on this tank with that sender. Seems like nearly half the volume is in the bottom 1/4 of the tank...

What exactly are you going to do with an autocad file of this part? If you can make one, you can just use the original as a pattern, right?

Interesting project. I read a lot of the woodward tech and learned quite a bit. I wonder how an electric rack would be for an application like this. It sure feels great in an S2000. Being able to have less assist with road speed is pretty attractive but obviously hydraulic racks are getting the job done already...amperage draw on small racecar charging systems might be an issue too...