383 240z

I have a 78 2+2 Brake booster on my 72z I'm planning on using Moderen motorsports caliper setup in front, disks in the rear (not sure what setup yet) I have some money saved up and was planning on buying a new MC this weekend. so I can start plumbing the system. I searched all day Sat and I think I need the 80zx MC but would feel MUCH better if I could get some reassurance! Keith

Try turning the motor over with the cap pulled, Make sure the rotor is turning. It is a long shot but I had a broken roll pin in the dizzy gear once. Make sure you have a GOOD ground between the chassis and motor. If you painted the heads there may not be a good ground path. just a few quick thoughts. Keith

It look like there will be only one show next year they cancled the sport compact jam for next year. They had around 3300 cars and about 40000 people thery were complaining about the action of a chosen few. there must of been one HELL of a problem to cancle that show! That was a TON of money to walk away from. You can read about it at http://WWW.customcompact.com Keith

No hurry I just wanted to make sure you got it. I had sombody drop it of at the post office for me. Keith

I pulled a head and did that last night the piston is so far down in the bore and is a dished w/ 4 valve relief design I felt pretty good but I put play-do on the piston and cranked it over by hand I'm good to go!! Keith PS Mike did you get that book I sent you?

I did some searching in my garage and found a set of 1.6:1 rollers and a set of valve covers I mocked them up and there is no interference with the pushrod slot I hope this fixes my problem. Keith

I'm late to jump on the wagon here but those flairs look like an outragous production part. Like the ones you see in the artist rendering of a pre-production car but you know that will NEVER make it to the street. I really like they way the car sits with them. Just wondering if the flames are going on to the car when it is done? Keith

I'm betting that it was just a parts failure I lubed the hell out of everything when I installed the cam (I wiped a lobe once can't afford to do it again) I figure that if it lasted 200 miles it was just a parts failure. If it was an interference problem it would have failed very soon right?? Keith

I was driving my "other Hybrid" Yesterday and heard a loud clacking sound. I pulled it over and towed it home, pulled a valve cover and found a rocker arm with a blown out ball seat. The push rod looks ok but the othe rod on the same cyl. was broken. I'm guessing that the rocker broke and turned into the other rod and wedged it and it broke?? Sound feisable?? the rods are hardened with guide plates the rockers are stock 1.5:1 the cam is a Crane 113942 484"/.480" with a duration of 272*/284*. This is not a brand new motor I have been driving this car for about 250 miles after a head swap. Keith

I'm renting the local dyno for a few hours and was wondering if this is the right way to use my time. 1st Set timing to a base number 2nd set rpm to lowest stable RPM 3rd set Idle for max vacuume and highest idle rpm. This will all be done before hand 4th advance timing until highest HP reading 5th go lighter with dizzy springs until pinging is noted 6th change jets primary until max HP reading 7th change jets secondary for max HP reading 8th if you have a stumble over 2000 rpm your 2ndy spring is to light (how do I tell if they are to heavy??) 9th a stumble off idle adjust accelorater pump cam and squirter until smooth curve is noted. Keith

I like the idea I'm putting a DANA 44 chunk into my 73 z. I was planning on keeping the axle design the same(plunge joint) but my driveshaft shop said that will be the weak link. I would be very interested to see how this works out for you. Keith

I like the idea I'm putting a DANA 44 chunk into my 73 z. I was planning on keeping the axle design the same(plunge joint) but my driveshaft shop said that will be the weak link. I would be very interested to see how this works out for you. Keith

Here is another one to add to it Haynes: A puller is not required. Translation: Try to pull the part off (hahahaha). Use a half a can of WD-40 and bang on it with a hammer. When that doesn't work, bang on it with a bigger hammer. When that doesn't work, go into town and buy a puller. Keith

That has got to be one of the funniest things I've read in a very long time!! I loved it Keith

That has got to be one of the funniest things I've read in a very long time!! I loved it Keith

Same here "What up wid dat?" Keith

I'm not positive but it sorta looks like a first or second gen rx-7 tranny. Keith

sounds like you found a check ball. swing by your local tranny shop and ask to see a checkball sheet for your transmission. you then have to drop your pan, valve body and seperater plate fide the missing ball and put it back! you can use vasaline to "glue" the balls in place while you re-assemble the parts. if you allready have the valve body down now is the perfect time to install a shift kit!!! (they will have the locations of the check balls in the instruction sheet (some kits tell you to leave certain ones out FOLLOW THE INSTRUCTIONS)) Keith

Some FC's have posi most 5 lug cars have it. the first series of cars (86-90) were plate style (Eaton) the second run (90-92) were cone style (Auburn) the gears are 4.10:1 in the 5 speeds and 3.90:1 in the automatics a few cars GTUs had 4.30:1 but they are pretty rare. Here are a few pix of what I did with my FC with a blown motor http://photos.yahoo.com/bc/rx7260z/lst?.dir=/V-8+RX-7&.view=t it has a 300 hp 350 CID chevy with a TH-700R4. I hope you like my other hybrid!! Keith

You may want to try searching on this site http://www.thirdgen.org it is a camaro board but a TBI is a TBI i've seen quite a bit of talk about 454 TB's on 350's there. Keith

Spiirit you should meet my wife. She can drive your ass off. I wish I could cut a light as well as she can. She used to run my RX-7 at the local auto-X and embarresed many a male driver. She has just given me the go ahead to build the 383 I have sitting here. And as for her getting a side job to "fill in the gaps" she makes considerably more money than I do. Keith

So Ihis is a good package? I'm ordering the rest of the parts today. thankyou for the info on the head gasket. Keith

Forgot one more question How do you think this set-up will take to a 100 shot of N2O? Keith

First off the car. 2900lbs 4.11:1 rear with 245/45/16 and 7004r w/2000 stall. Mostly street use some track driven about 60 miles a day to and from work. The heads are 64cc iron 461 heads 1.94"/1.50" with 1.6:1 roller rockers, some blending done. Block is a .030 over 350 with cast 400 crank. Forged SpeedPro L2491's on rebuilt 5.7" rods. Total Seal 1/16" moly rings piston is .019" below the deck at TDC. SCR should be about 9.77:1. Intake is a Edelbrock RPM with a 650 Holley 4150 w/Vac 2ndry. The exhaust is a set of small tube headers 1 1/2" with 2 1/2" collectors to a pretty open muffler. I THINK a Crane Cam #113942 will fit this package well. I decided to go with a smaller carb to increase the velocity of the intake charge at low speed. This should help my MPG and throttle responce. Now there is the question on the quench height. A link that grumpy sent me says to run a .035" quench if the piston is .019" down the bore at TDC then my head gasket should be about .016" thick, right? Do they come that thin or do I get the block decked and run a thicker gasket? Any ideas what octane this motor will need? Also how does one figure DCR? I wish to thank everybody who has been helping me with this so far. Keith

does it sound like my goals will be atainable with the parts I have? I can change the 4.11's to a set of 3.90's after a trip to the JY I really hope this will work as I NEED to have this car running by the 1st of May and broken in and tuned by the 17 of May. That is when the tracks start opening up around here. Keith