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I have a 240SX as my daily driver and am looking into all the SR stuff for that. From what I've read, the SR 6 speed is weaker than the 5 speed. Not sure if thats true or not, but just what I've heard. tooquick260, how did you get around the speed sensor with the S15 6 speed? Because isn't the speed sensor in the differential for those transmissions? Either way, 350Z 6 speed will be awesome. Expensive to buy all the parts though. Good Luck!

I'll have an OEM one on Saturday once I rip into my parts car. No rust other than slight surface rust.

I think it should bolt in as well, but if you happen to need one I have one.

I assume you've already done a radio delete. I don't a picture currently, but I put my A/F gauge in between the 2 main gauges in a small pod mounted to the plastic steering column cover. If you don't have AC anymore, you can mod the AC duct vents (the round ones on the outer edges of the dash. Or the center ones too I suppose) and put one in there as well. Its a little low, but with some creativity I bet you could angle it up towards you.

Picked this up from ebay the other day. Ski Rack made for S30 and S130 2+2's by the MOHN company in California around the 70's-80's offered as a dealer option from what I can find. Can't find too much info on it. But it's going on my coupe to hold my vintage skis for car shows.

I've seen about 5 through the 2 local yards over my 5 years of owning mine. 2 were from some guy who was building a track car and had a parts car and just brought them in. The one was completely stripped, tokico suspension, toyota brakes, euro tails, etc. Needless to say, I took those 240Z euro tails. But they do come through every now and then. Waiting on the next one to roll through my area. They are always way too rusted to save; at least the ones I've seen.

Single turbo is usually more costly than getting upgraded twins that will just bolt right on and use the stock hardware. N1's should be good for that power. The skyline guys run about a max of 500hp through them with all the other needed supporting mods of course. But you can also go to "bigger framed" turbos, like the above mentioned garretts. But if you're only looking for 450, I myself couldn't justify converting to a single unless I wanted to go for max horsepower.

Finally found my coolant leak and made a plan to fix it tomorrow. And finally got around to wiring in my A/F gauge.

And 400hp is easy on either the 25 or 26 on stock internals. Just good tune/engine management, intake (on the 25), turbo, FMIC and injectors and theres your 400hp. Heck, once I drop in my new cams and retune my engine management I should be near 450hp on my RB20. 400 is and easy number with more displacement.

Buy the entire motorset. Will come out cheaper if not the same just because you wont have to track down all the small stuff. Rb25 long blocks I usually see are around $800-$900. Add in $500 for the cheapest rb25 trans and then add ECU, wiring, and all the other miscellaneous items, you're better off getting the entire thing in one go. Saves money (depending on how cheap you got the parts of course if you pieced it) but more importantly saves time and headache.

You could covert to N1's. Conversion kits run about $1700. Nice steel wheels and new seals and all. 450hp isn't hard with a RB26. I'm pushing 400hp with a RB20.

I daily drive an S13 with stock KA-E (soon to be SR or 1J or RB. Can't decide as all the 240 kids have driven the price up on SR's. When I got my first 240 about 3 years after my Z to take over the daily driving they were $1500 complete; now they're bringing around $2000-$2500). I get 25-30 depending on where I'm going. My SR buddies get around 28 staying in the low RPM. I got my first one for $1200, but it had a piece of crap body. It ran and drove fantastic minus an injector going bad one day. But I've traded (because 240 guys will always trade if they like it. ha) 3 times and now I have the near perfect S13 Hatch I have now (minus the paint. Problem with S13's and old cars that are driven really). Although this one has had and ECU go bad (KA-E issues I've been told). So they can be found on the cheap, but it'll be a give and take. But with all that I'd recommend something Honda. Honda's are so reliable and parts are so cheap. They are everywhere in junkyards and so many share the same parts (S13's used to be in every junkyard but now I guess kids have figured out that if they part them out they can ask the same price for the shell as the junkyard would've paid them for the car and sell the engine to double their money). If I'd do it again, I'd try to get a prelude or integra. But even then, prices on those are slowly on the rise. My problem with Audi is the parts cost. Same with BMW and the Euro market really. Unless its a golf. Those are cheap.

I've seen mint ZX turbos go for less than a third of that price.

I'll probably be ordering a set of 15x9 -15 in the next few days! Sold my other wheels to my buddy who decided he wanted them really bad.

Speaking of difficulty turning, it's definitely more expensive than the Subaru rack I'd think (never really looked into it) but anyone ever seen one of these? http://www.zccjdm.com/catalog.php/azcarbum/dt93255/pd2134757/CUSTOM__DATSUN__ELECTRIC_POWER_STEERING_KIT_

I had 245/45/16 on my Z for a while and like everyone said, moving slow is difficult. At a stop good luck. But when you're moving its not that bad. Autocrossing and racing like BluDestiny said may leave you with sore arms though.

As you are not buying a turbo kit and just interested in a manifold you may be okay. But give this a look: http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/113832-do-not-buy-from-cxracing/ Technically it still is an Ebay place in my mind because they started on Ebay and I would bet got popular because Hot Rod magazine used their stuff on a junkyard engine build (may have seen it in the bookstore. 4.8 Vortec engine pulled from a junkyard. CX racing stuff and it made like 1100hp or something. They're turbos are iffy at best. Avoid "unbranded" turbos; stick to trusted names for those). I still think you may run into the problem of the welds cracking; seen it on a lot of "unbranded" manifolds (manifolds that aren't from companies like HKS, Full-Race, 6Boost ect.). That being said I've seen some never crack. Seems to be the luck of the draw. It's nothing that can't be rewelded if it does crack, it's just annoying to have to do it. If you do decide to go with the CX racing one, check down the runners before installing it. I had a good buddy install one and it had like stalactites in it from where they welded it and one broke off and basically ruined his turbo. So just use caution. But you can use your stock one and weld a wastegate flange on it. I know they do it to L28ET manifolds all the time and I have a few buddies who have done it to their RB ones. Because unless your going for mega power, the stock manifold actually doesn't flow all that bad. And you can fit quite sizable turbos down there (will need a spacer in between the manifold and the turbo so the compressor housings will clear the manifold though. But that's the easy and cheap part).

Needs some love. Can't say I've seen a dash with a crack ever like that one has near the tach. And I like how stuff is "not cheep".

Do you have the stock downpipe? If you are set on making a better flowing one, why not cut the flange off the stock one and go from there?

Avoid ebay manifolds. They like to crack and I've seen plenty of pics where the turbo flange is angled so hard it makes the turbo hit the valve cover. Ive seen one so bad it barely cleared the cam.

Big Phil used some that are sold out of the summit catalog, the procar ones or whatever. Here you can see them: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MbPQ_dgG3o8 He said he had to cut them to make them fit properly though. Other thing is the mounts. I've heard from a lot of different Z owners that the aftermarket brackets sit the seats up really high so they end up fabing their own. I'm a "builder" so I decided to just go that route with mine. I don't have Ebay ones though, I found some Corbeaus. I'd try to stick to name brands just because they are known to hold up a little better than the off-brands.

No knockoffs for the 20 as far as I know, besides the stick welded ones on ebay from Thailand that I've seen blow the welds on boost above 18lbs. Usually knockoffs are for the 25 and 26. Only "really good" (in terms of flow and quality) one for the 20 in the aftermarket is the RIPS one, but those run a cool 1k+.

Compression on the RB20DE neo was 9.5:1 I believe, same as normal DE; the DET's were 8.5:1. The stock bore is 78mm. Stock headgasket is around. 04" which is about 1.016mm. Ive seen the headgaskets though youre talking about; theyre aftermarket usually mls stuff right? As for the rods they should be the same in length and such, but being a neo they may be stronger material? That I am unsure of.

Should try to sell those RHD dash replicas. Ha. I want to go RHD but the dash is the issue.

One of my buddies in Cali sent me that ad and all I had to say was wow...... He said it was a legit one though.