jnjdragracing

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Looks good David, I need to get back started on my SS Monte... After SEZ then I will get busy..... John

Words of wisdom..... Always match parts together, Nice cam, then a victor jr. intake along with good heads, and decent compression 10.1, good dizzy, like a msd and lock out your timming etc. If you go roller cam (big) the super victor intake, at least 220 heads, bigger carb, more compression... etc.... If you plan on doing it in stages then, go with good intake for later, good heads for later, then when you are ready, bump up the cam, compression, and bigger carb. You have to ask yoursel what do you want to do? What is your goal? then make a plan. Do not half step if you know what I mean. If we can help let us know... I love my 355 cu Chevy...... Maybe have some parts if you are interested. John

Congrats Garrett, Probably will make some good runs at SEZ. It might surprize you... See you soon... John

I would use the torch also. He is correct the bolts will melt and drip out. After it cools I would run a tap through it to clean up the threads. When installing new bolts put anti-seis on the threads. Next time should not be a problem when you take them out. John Been there done that.

What are you symptons? I had a bad vacuum leak and it was because my intake was not matching up to my heads. At high rpms it actually was sucking oil from my lifter valley. I had to make transition plates to adapt the intake to the heads. Just an Idea.... Not sure about the propane idea......

Well our Machinist went into work at 5:00am this morning just to work on our stuff. Balanced the two replacement pistons, cut the heads to make them level / straight, did valve job anf found a slightly bent / warped valve. Will start cutting rings tonight. Then start putting it back together. John

Well we have the replacement pistons, they are still at the machine shop with the heads. Hope to get them back Wednesday or Thursday. Got the block back today, will get the rings tomorrow and will start filing them tp cylinder's tomorrow night. Then will install the crank and start putting in the pistons. Hopefully will have all parts and engine assembled by Friday night, install and get running over the long weekend. Then can take a breather and get ready for the Dyno on Wednesday for tuning, Oh YES we are going to use the 8% overdriven pulley verses the 2% pulley. Then relax until Friday night next week before we pack up and head to SEZ. Hopefully all will go good with no problems. The Aluminum heads had some warpage and some valves leaking. Hopefully nothing too bad. I will keep you posted. John

We thought about trying the supercharger on the 412, but the block is not o-ringed, do not have a stought enough rods or crank and will have to change the pistons. The 355 was a NOS motor with a fogger and plate system at one time. It has a $1200 callies crank, eagle h-beam rods and I have always liked the 355, it will turn 10,000 rpm's and make power all the way through it. The old rods we used were child and albert 6" rods, but could not get a good deal on the blower pistons for 6" rods. It was cheaper to buy a new set of eagle rods. John The 406 nad 412 are limited to about 6800 rpm, the have a lot of bottom end torque, but the 355 will catch at the other end.

Sorry, I read the post below and I do not think I have what you want. Also I have been busy trying to put my engine back together for SEZ. When I have time I will snap a few photos of what I have. Maybe this weekend.

Well good luck, hope it goes okay. See ya at SEZ. John

Explain to me what you mean by 180 degree headers? I bought a set of Stahl headers to use and cut them up to make headers for my tube chassi car, they might be what you are looking for. One header looks normal, the other looks like it crosses and go under the engine to the other side along with that side header. I think these were made for nascar. John

Looks good, Clean looking Z-car too.... John

We have several backup engines. we have 2 complete 412cu. chevy's and a 406 cu. chevy and then the big block 496 cu. chevy. We were just having so much fun with the 355 supercharged engine. John

The pistons are forged made by speed pro - power forged for superchargers / turbo. I get a special price break on speed pro., the H-Beam rods are made by Eagle. Yes the block is O-ringed, with head studs. John

When I set up our Z-car I set the engine with the #1 spark plug hole to the center of the front tire. We use motor plate along with a mid-plate. We can pull either or with out a problem and have clearence to unbolt the trans from the block. Had to make a cross member, but it was close to the original setup. See attached photo. John Oh good luck with the new converter.

way to go Phil. Impressive stuff.... John

You bet.... How are you doing with your tuning? John

Yep, you are correct. It still ran good. We were just off our 60ft. You can see by the videos last week and then the week before it was still running strong. It will be a little diffrent now with a fresh engine. Watch out Rip, here we come. All in fun, just hope to have a good time at SEZ and maybe run some 8's in the 1/4. John

yep that is the problem. You do know we have to tame the engine down when we leave the line now. The little Z can't take it. But I will build the othe car tube chassis with a Z body and then we will pull all the strings. You are correct on the juice. But we are just using 20% of it. It was just the heat (lean) then the problem with the fuel nozzle for that side. It happens. We will adjust this time and should be okay now. I am just glad we found the problem and bad piston before it all came apart. It would of been nasty........ Wish you were comming but we understand. John

We are not saying we can be beat.... Never have said that. There is always something faster out there. All it takes is money.... It is all in fun. But we will be there and with a fresh motor. Watch out I can see the 8's now... Thanks for your support. John

Oh we are comming to SEZ. if the motor is not back together then we will install my old 412 cu. with lots of jiuce. We should have the 355 back together in time if all goes well. So we have other options. John

I use normal oil havoline 10w30 to break in the engine and the rings to seat, then I run royal purple racing 21 when it is hot and racing 11 when it is cold. They offer so many types with different vicositys. It does not break down ( heat, fuel, nos. ) does not effect it. I have always used it in all my race / toys. I used to use castrol synthetic and then made the switch to royal purple when it came out. I had a sand rail, I was mud bogging and went into a bottomless pit, got stuck and really had to turn it up to get out. There was a stump hidden the mud and it ripped off my oil filter. After getting it out the motor was so hot it siezed up. Towed it back home. The next day I was it off. Replaced the oil filter nad oil. It cranked up with no problems. Ran it I guess a few more months and if I remember correctly had to tear it apart for a cam swap. the bearings looked new. That made a believer out of me. Royal pruple protected the surfaces even with no oil in the motor. go to www.royalpurple.com. When I change my oil, I strain it and use the old oil in my lawn mowers. John

Here are the last ones.