jnjdragracing

I have installed several of them in various drag cars. They work well, and do the job. John

A very clean car and install. Looks like the V8 came factory in it. John

We never have said you do not need anything more. Just that so far the R200 has done extremely well for us. I agree with you about the R200 on the street with out a welded rear end. It will give the clutches or spyder gears hell, and more than likely break the rear end ( look at Garrett ). Nothing is bullett proof IMO, it would just make you feel better when you pull up at the starting line. I have learned from trial and error. I will only run 33 spilne and above axles in a straight axle rear end, and only a full spool or welded rear end, prefferebly a full spool, no mini spool, and if it is a 12 bolt chevy rear end then c-clip eliminators are a must. Along with a drive shaft saftey loop. John

I do not know anything about a Power Brute unit. The R200 with CV axles is holding up so far with our car, and believe me we punish it enough. I still cringe when my brother takes off the starting line not knowing what is going to break. To me to be absolute bullet proof with no worries, then I would straight axle it, probably a 9 inch, 4 link it and would run a full spool. Same as being welded, I know you say street use. I have used welded rear ends for about 25 years on the street with out any issues except for some tire chirping around corners. JOhn

Convert to turbo 300 cv joints and weld the rearend if it is a R200. Then it is a done deal, go have some fun. John

Hello Mike, Sorry for the delayed response. With that kind of power you are talking about you are asking a lot IMO. I would weld it up and give it a try. I would worry more about half shafts and other related componets. We are pushing 750rwhp on the NOS, and it is holding for us. But we do not drive it on the street much. If you must spend some money I would back half the car and put a straight axle in with a 4-link, then you will be worried with it. John

They make it sound like my Barry Grant carbs. Same thing, does have a powervalve but it is boot sensitive, I actually have vacumn lines running from them to a boost reference. My AFR's are constant as well. David good luck with the new setup and can't wait to see it run. John

These are the headers we use. No problems with them at all, except they do not like raised exhaust ports with angle plug heads but we still run them. Note: we do use a front motor plate vers. motor mounts, but it looks like they will work also. John

Back half it. Install a rear subframe. I would go with a 4 link setup, but ladder bars would work. John

That is totally awsome. 595rwhp is nothing to joke around with, Especially comming from a 6 cylinder turbo charged with a spray of NOS. We only put out last time at the dyno horsepower at the rear wheels was 566rwhp, on the 20% of NOS we are around 750rwhp. This is at 6500rpm at 16psi boost. When we go to 7500rpm we are at 600rwhp, have not tried it on NOS at that rpm level. 9's should not be a problem for you if you can plant it to the ground. Congrats on the numbers. John

I have heard a lot about these kits jtr. Why do people use the kits, When I built our z car, I used a front motor plate, pretty simple to install, then a mid motor plate for extra strenght and support. Made my own cross member. Used the hooker headers super comp made for a z-car. It is not that bad of a deal to make. Ist note, get the headers 1st, setup a dummy engine (block) with heads. position it with the headers on. This will let you know the rest. Where the crossmember needs to be, motor plate setup and mid-plate setup etc. Maybe I am so used to making stuff, I take it for granted. We are working on the S10 build up now. Installed dummy engine, ordered headers. Have to wait for them to come in and mount them before we procede with making any type of mounts. just my opinion, but you know the saying...... John

Looking good big Phil. Keep us posted. John

Welcome aboard Bobby C. Too me this is the best board. John

Congrats David on firing it up. You can post the video's on streetfire.net. Can't wait to see and hear it. John

That was a good video, did not care to much for the music or street racing but that is me. John

Wayne I have posted some of the videos on www.streetfire.net, just search for jnjdragracing and it should pull up some videos. John

Congrats Wayne, Glad the converter worked for ya, Hopefully we will see you in March. Awsome about winning the race, bet it made you feel good didn't it. Just think when you get all of the Z worked out, its going to be awesome. John

On this set up you are doing it would be easy to plumb alky injection in the runners of the intake, use it when you are really putting the boost to it and it would act as a intercooler. Wish my intake was that style. We use 20% on nos system under the carb for an intercooler effect. Looking forward to seeing more of your project as it progresses. John

That is amazing, congrats on your numbers. I tend to agree with Grumpyvette you will hurt a lot of v8's feeling's with them numbers. John

Welcome aboard. John

I would take the car to a alignment shop and check the four wheel alignment.You could use a plumbob and a concrete floor. I know your rear is non-adjustable but it will tell you if the car is tracking correctly. I know all this changes when the car is accelerating. You could take it to a chassis dyno and see how the a-arms react to acceleration. I would also check the rear tires and make sure they are the same circumference, even if they both are the same size. You could add air pressure to the tire, ( if the car goes left add a 1/2 to 1pound of air to the left tire, if it goes right do the same.) don't laugh it has worked for me. Good Luck Jerry:2thumbs:

Tell Rip he needs a less powerful engine or take off a nos system or better yet get a better driver. Just kidding....... I have always seen anti-rollbars on straight axle cars. I do not think they would work on independent suspension...... It is probably the 8" slicks he is running, just to much power for them or to low of air pressure making them roll. John

Our R200 is holding up suprzinly well. We welded up or unit to make posi. My Monte Carlo has a full spool that I drive on the street with no problems except for tire churp around corners. John

It depends on the bolt material, location etc. Need more info....... John

I use a battery maintainer / conditioner. It is called a Battery Minder. I think it was around $50.00 or so. I use it on my lawn mower, jet ski, race car, and batteries just sitting around. It is the best $50.00 I have spent. I use to have to buy a new jet ski battery every year because lack of use. They were around $115.00 a pop. I have had the same jet ski battery now for 3 years plus. It comes with a pig tail you can by extra pig tails and tie it into your battery and just switch it around from battery to battery. Not only does it charge, but it puts a load on the battery and desulphater. John