BLOZ UP

Backpressure is a myth: http://www.uucmotorwerks.com/html_product/sue462/backpressuretorquemyth.htm You can tune exhausts, but that's for optimizing velocity, not backpressure. The motor makes 145HP at the motor. I'm not sure if 1970s HP rating standards are the same as they are now (like allowing race pipes, lack of accessories, etc.). Assuming 15% loss that's 123 HP. The rest is probably a tired engine. Going to a drag strip and get a few trap speeds. You can estimate your HP much better that way--especially if the track has a weigh station.

Kennedale.

No real changes. Added fuel cooler on the return line. Doesn't really do anything. Made a fuel pump speed controller, blew it up from lack of flyback circuit. Did some tuning. Went to the track...

110MPH, I think. GPS speedo decided to record a max of 500 MPH (the default, for some reason). Looking at the logs, apparently I hit 110 MPH. Didn't feel that fast. Ignition breaks up at around 5k though. Was just trying to tune my car. That laptop steering wheel mount really comes in handy.

Did you end up cutting the radiator support at all?

Man 4k for a nice low miles vq37.... why am i using this VG nonsense... EDIT: wait... vq40de is cheaper... lower compression, squarer bore and stroke. mmm turbo time...

Well, I can't speak from experience. But I'm leaning toward no, it's the other way around. If the engine has VVT or any special stuff, the stock ECU will be better. They have UpRev or whatever other tuning solutions for almost all modern PCMs these days, and they aren't crappy like LS1Edit anymore.

My Aeromotive pump just flows so much that it's causing vapor issues on my EFI system. After about 30 minutes of driving in the Texas heat, I'm hearing the pump get louder and louder, due to (I'm guessing) vapor forming near the inlet. I installed a cheap "Fuel Cooler" out of a $20 tube and fin transmission cooler from O'Reilly's. This allowed me 45 minutes or so of driving. As an intermediate solution, I made and installed a PWM fuel pump speed controller. It worked awesome for about an hour, then the 555 timer decided to crap out (I'm guessing from massive flyback voltage, which I had just finished adding a diode to try and fix). What I need to do is install a sump. Uh, I guess my point is that, depending on what pump you have, you should see if your tank is just heating up a lot. I don't have vapor issues at the rail, that I can tell. It never drops pressure or coughs, just sounds like my pump is destroying itself.

Also, keep in mind that better springs are needed for more than 6500, so the word is.

6500 from the factory. People have run them to 7000. A significant amount of those people also spun rod bearings. I set mine to 6000 and don't plan on increasing it. The VGE dies off after 5500 anyway.

I've got a lot of spare Al 2.25" and 2.5" bends. Some 3" as well. Need to clean out the garage.

Because now I don't have to worry about speedo cable/wires from the transmission, diff gear ratios, tire sizes, etc. It just works. It's getting a signal in less than a minute, which is faster than I can pull out of my driveway. They are Speedhut gauges. A google search would lead you straight to their website. I purchased the Revolution gauges.

I used the stock 280Z sender. I just switched the wires from the stock gauge to this one. They are pretty easy and logical to calibrate.

Good question... I removed it to test fit but didn't like the lip that was left over. I tried to make it look stockish. But really, it's kind of a pain to push the buttons. Have to have a screwdriver in the car. But I have a bunch of spare ones since they always have that free screwdriver set deal at HF. They hand those things out like they're french fries in a combo meal. The stock fuel gauge apparently has filtering in it. My new one bounces a little during braking/accelerating from the slosh in the tank. Not a big deal.

I also routed the parking brake light to the otherwise unused floor temp light.

I finished the wiring. Besides the high-beam indicator, it went smoothly. The high beam indicator is on a switched ground, and receives +12v all the time (or at least, IGN). So I hooked up a relay to activate upon being grounded, providing +12V to the new Speedhut indicator. However, it doesn't work but I believe a fault in my headlight wiring--my high-beams don't work. Other than that you can group all the gauge power, ground, and light connections (for both gauges and gauge lighting inverters), to the same 3 wires. The gauges take a fraction of the power the original ones consume. Also pictured is part of my new 240Z wheel. It's nice to not have a wheel wrapped with electrical tape anymore. Full writeup: http://www.blozup.com/node/38

I haven't yet got any replacements for the 3 gauges. I have some Greddy 2-1/16" gauges just ziptied where the radio goes at the moment. I want some 2-5/8" ones for the 3 gauges in the dash. Will probably be boost, oil pressure, fuel pressure, which is the same as the Greddy ones I have now. I'm wiring it up right now--I believe my high beams to be shorted. I can't get the LED to light properly, and I'm using a relay. Man they didn't think this through when they designed it. Either that or relays were really expensive back in the 70s...

I agree with this. Maybe a single limit, like weight, or 1 driver, 4 wheels, whatever--but otherwise unrestricted. I think there's been more than one turbine powered car in LeMans, but I couldn't say since I don't follow it that well.

I got some Speedhut gauges a while back and decided to install them now. I got: 4" Revolution GPS speedometer, with fuel gauge, turn signal indicators, and high-beam indicator 4" Revolution 8,000 RPM tachometer I installed them in the housings of the 280Z gauges. I put the new speedometer in the 280Z's tachometer housing and dash location. I used the 280Z speedometer's location and housing for the new tachometer. I heard about other people using a small 4" section of PVC pipe. I just used the old tachometer housing's screw retainers for the speedometer. For the new tachometer, I had to cut out the back of the old speedometer, and then I used some laptop screws so that they would extend further in the housing for the threaded ring to catch. So far, so good, but I haven't wired it up and tested it yet. The full writeup is here: http://www.blozup.com/node/37

I don't think the wiring is the problem. The current draw will increase as the wires heat up and increase their resistance, but this shouldn't effect the pump unless it's really not getting enough voltage. I believe I am having the same problem. My new Aeromotive pump got mighty loud after a 30 minute tuning session. My previous pump was also loud (all the time though), and then it died. I had a pre-pump filter on the previous one, and I have a nice Jeg's filter on this one. However, I think my problem is that the fuel tank feed--the portion in the tank is getting clogged. I cleaned this tank before I put it in but I think I'm going to run it real low and then take a look through the fuel sending unit's opening. I don't know if there's a screen on the fuel outlet (that is, the feed to the pump) in the tank, hopefully someone else can chime in? I have a 77 tank, I imagine it's different throughout the years.

I've had this car on the dyno just once, and the CAI was installed. The before is from a drive around, the after is on the dyno during the first pull.

MAT is the white line on the bottom graph of each picture. Before: After: Note that the car was a bit hotter in the before, but still...

The tach output from Megasquirt?

Leakdown?

I find it hard to believe that the L28 can idle over 22:1. It must be reading wrong.