BLOZ UP

I'm just saying that Blaked Outs car is more worth his asking price than this car is worth its. It's better done, I guess is what I'm saying.

Horrible from a corporate standpoint, maybe bearable from a individual standpoint. Here are the main reasons for a backup: 1) Malware 2) Hardware failure I haven't looked into online, "cloud", backups, but do they offer any kind of versioning, or multiple backups? If you get (1), how do you know when the last clean backup was? If 2 happens, do you have a means to download an entire backup and image it to disk? Or the original CDs to restore the operating system and then restore your personal files from the online backup? I don't like them because they are slow, depend on your internet connection and the connection all the way to the company, and they depend on whatever company staying in business, not changing their TOS, etc. Here's my backup setup on my computers with critical files: 1) Mirrored HDs (two hard disks with exactly the same contents) 2) An NFS (network file server) on my LAN for personal and work files, system settings, etc. Sync'd to latest revision daily. 3) Weekly full backups of those file for versioning to the same server, but seperate drive. 4) Drivers and OS images are also on this server. For my laptops, I make system images whenever I feel like it (before traveling, etc.). 5) Server and all important computers are on UPSs. And I'm covered. But this is a somewhat more technical approach. You can get nearly the same safety just by making weekly full backups to an external drive. It will be much faster and Windows 7 has a decent backup service, finally. There's also Cobian backup which I like as well. The only online service I've had experience with is Carbonite. Overpriced, if you ask me. For the price of one year of that, $60, you can get a 250GB external drive, backup everything a few times over, and it will last a couple years on average. I'd rather take my chances with a single external hard disk, and just replace it when it fails.

Sure, but he used the probably exaggerated claim of "100k invested". I suppose that's not incorrect, Zuckerburg invested a lot more than that and isn't exactly happy with the outcome. But for a light restomod with a body kit, no thanks. "Blacked out" or whatever his username was had that completely redone and SR20'd restomod, that was a lot closer to his 75k or 100k that he was asking.

Cars are rarely investments. Old Japanese cars are just entering that type of classification but have a long way to go.

Cool. Is that just a 3.0L intake and plate on it, or is the engine a 3.0? What did you do about alternator placement? I also would like to see the exhaust manifolds.

What prompted the steering shaft removal?

Just "misplace" the title and file for a lost one. At another DMV preferably. $200 bonded title fee + registration/taxes should be less than $600.

I don't think users would want that. Why don't we just have a on-off switch?

I left it in the garage when we gave the house to our friends to rent. Maybe she hasn't thrown it away? Go pick it up...

Going to check out the Z club here this weekend. They don't have meetings during the winter....

It was 80 today. Nice.

Lower heat causes less warping. You still need to heat up the metal to 1500 degrees C to melt it... There's always going to be some warpage. You just have to minimize it, but reducing the amount of heat that spreads around.

I wouldn't make it BT only. If you ever need to flash firmware or tune startups (BT negotiation takes a couple seconds). That and it's slower.

I made a 8.8 1/8 mile after only one or two mods. I kind of wanted to go yesterday but I decided filling out job applications would be time better spent. Next weekend though, maybe. My last weekend here!

I see. Any plans to go to Kennedale or a dyno? Sounds like it should be making some power...

Shouldn't your compression go up with a thinner gasket?

Didn't think of that possibility....

Just discovered and read through this thread. You run 25 degrees at what boost? Better yet, can you post your timing map? What's your compression ratio? If true, I need to up my timing. Then, WE SHALL GO TO RACE WARS. Come to think of it, I popped a fail-pro sitting in traffic once in my 84 Z31t. Car was fine one minute, and then a constant plume of white smoke appeared behind me until I got home. That was like the 2nd time in a couple months. I switched to OEM gaskets after that. The OE gaskets were good for head splitting. Ask me how I know.

Electronic sending units have made external gauges obsolete, unless you are just in it for the "i have gauges on the outside" factor.

lol wrong tab.

I also have casters, however I'm an idiot and I welded some HF ones on to it. This resulted in very stiff casters. So THAT'S why they have bolt holes....

I have a 4'x2' table, using square stock, just like that. The legs are square as well though. I have 4 12"x24" aluminum plates, I think 1/8" thick or so as the top. I like the Aluminium because it is light, easy to remove and move around in case I need to make part of the part I'm welding drop through. That, and it doesn't rust (or at least, the oxidation is more conductive then iron oxide). If part of the weldment works better hanging off the edge I can accommodate.

Ditto with the lawyer. As for the car, next time have agreed upon value insurance. I feel much better driving my Z around knowing that if something totals it, I'm not completely SOL. I doubt Progressive will be willing to give you much for the car, the other party's insurance is who you should be talking to. Or who Progressive should be talking to, anyway.

Here he is, in his typical passive aggressive fashion. First things first: So, the parroting that a car "needs" backpressure is incorrect? Or the parroting that backpressure is a myth is incorrect?

Backpressure is a myth: http://www.uucmotorwerks.com/html_product/sue462/backpressuretorquemyth.htm You can tune exhausts, but that's for optimizing velocity, not backpressure. The motor makes 145HP at the motor. I'm not sure if 1970s HP rating standards are the same as they are now (like allowing race pipes, lack of accessories, etc.). Assuming 15% loss that's 123 HP. The rest is probably a tired engine. Going to a drag strip and get a few trap speeds. You can estimate your HP much better that way--especially if the track has a weigh station.