BLOZ UP

Ordered a coolant neck off of a WD21 pathfinder. This eliminates the radiator cap, since I have one on the radiator already. May need to bleed car on a slope depending on how I route the pipe from here to the radiator: But this also allows the Maxima intake to work without grinding. I'm working a bit at a time on an alternator mount, no pictures yet. It's really ugly. Basically a long T that extends out from the motor mount. Speaking of which. the motor mounts are more or less done. One needs a little extra metal on the side for the alternator mount, and the other needs a hole drilled, but that's it.

Nooooooooooooooooooooooiiiice! Wish my VG crap could go to 8k...

What are your MS settings for: Battery voltage correction Coil dwell, spark time, etc. And where are you getting MS's power from?

I've modified the passenger side mount again and got rid of the Z31 alternator bracket. The alternator will have to be reverse mounted and I will make an alternator mount that attaches to the motor mount. It's 1/8" thick steel, so I don't see any problems with stress. I think. I'm a computer scientist not a mechanical engineer. I also got the 1-1/4" SCH10 pipe to fit the header flanges that I have. After searching for a place to bore out the holes on the flange, I got the much better idea of just turning some straight pipe down and chopping that down to what I need for each primary. Der. So $10 worth of machining instead of $100. I'd like to get the car to at least start by the end of the summer but I have doubts. I will definitely get somewhere with the exhaust manifolds, however.

The u-joints aren't replaceable according to Nissan, but you can replace them with Spicers.

If your alternator needs extra help around idle, maybe. But that's only if you have A/C, power steering, a large stereo, ... Otherwise, If you need the extra air for cold starts and warmup, just use the thermometer valve. The Z31 has a 12v on-when-car-is-on valve, and I believe the L28's is the same. No need to hook it to MS, just have it powered when the IGN is on. I used just that cold air valve and never had any issues with MSII on my Z31. And it had power steering and A/C. Although now that I think about it it has a separate PS up-idle valve.

Ah, I see. I'm looking even more retarded now. Your center section has a 90 degree oil feed. That explains a lot. All the oil drain flanges I found a while ago were female threaded. Haven't looked in a while.

I'm an idiot. Didn't even bother to check for the drain and assumed that COOLANT line was the oil feed. Disregard my nonsense. To help make this post somewhat useful, where'd you get that nifty oil drain to AN line adapter?

Like someone else said, you seem to know what you are doing, but that oil feed on the turbo should be within 15 degrees of vertical in order to drain properly.

There is an easier way to do this nowadays...

I saw the "F1 JOY" McLaren F1 that was on Jalopnik there. And got up and close to an R90C. Awesome. As well as plenty of other carporn. It was great.

Was anyone here at Spa Francochamps today? Saw an interesting Z owner with a 1JZ swap. Wondering if he's on here.... From GB.

I did my last like Tony said, and had perfect compression. put in dead dyno oil and build pressure with no plugs in. Start car, let it warm up. Turn off, change oil. Put car on dyno and tune it, beating the hell out of it as well. Changed the oil again to my regular synthetic and was done. But I had a decent tune to start with. Hard part is not fumbling around for hours with a bad tune on a brand new engine build.

Miller Diversion 165, w/Pedal I got it new off eBay. Best price I could find. They released the Diversion 180 a couple weeks later. Figures. I am very satisfied with it. Biggest complaint is non-detachable ground and lead. The ground can be made detachable fairly easily. gas and lead, not so much. Actually my biggest complaint is that my car is in the way of my welding table, but that's my fault.

R50 and R51 Pathfinders also have a VQ (3.5 and 4.0).... but it has different compression as well as different cams, IIRC.

You that guy from the Cowtown Z meeting yesterday, that announced Alamo having Haltech?

Finals are over. Did a few things.

Sure the o-rings aren't just fubar?

If it had a leak that big, the engine wouldn't be idling at 800. 8000 more likely. Are you sure Tuner Studio has the correct MAP settings in the config? I know some of the MAPs have points where their voltage outputs intersect.

It idles at 85? Do you have a vacuum gauge? That doesn't sound right. The engine off pressure sounds about right, though. If it won't pass a certain RPM it's usually too lean/rich and/or timing is way off. Check the map and smooth it out.

The weight of the car does. It's normal. Just be sure they are rotated in the perches correctly.

I fixed that for you. The few years I worked at a performance shop, we had a lot more bent American pushrods than broken OHC motors. We also had a lot more domestic vehicles, but even still...

Since you are using resistors, those settings are effectively "high impedance resistor" settings. They won't help if he has low-z injectors without resistors.