BLOZ UP

Try putting a noid light on the injector harness. I bet that's your problem. Make sure injectors get +12v when running AND cranking. MAP should drop a little, but I wouldn't worry about that quite yet.

My parents are in VA, I'll see if they'll give me that to cover my next 30 bdays.

You thought about trying TunerStudio instead of MT? MT is no longer maintained IIRC.

I think you are wrong. What you set sound like activate and deactivate points for the rev limit. In other words, some hysteresis so you don't bounce like crazy off of a strict 7000 RPM limiter. You rev to 7000, it cuts ignition/fuel/whatever till RPMs drop down to 6500. On Megasquirt, there's a similar algorithm. It drops X cylinders at the first soft point, then the hard limit drops all cylinders. The AFRs will be completely inaccurate when you hit a rev limiter.

Does the CAS have power? On my Z31 (which uses a similar CAS, but other things not so similar), the CAS was powered by the stock ECU, and I had to wire it in to +12v IGN source when using MS.

Or longtubes, AFR heads, cam and bam, 550+ HP, with a torque plateau (instead of a curve).

LSx and your done.

Could it be used? Yes, with lots of fabrication. Would it work well? Probably not. Why don't you just get the turbo parts from a Z31 Turbo, and swap them in to yours? It will be a lot easier, it will be BOLT ON, and you'll get more power out of it and have room to grow. http://redz31.net/turbofaq/turbo.faq.htm Another alternative, which only a small few have done, is to get the supercharger off of the Frontier (like someone on here mentioned). Those will "bolt on" but the Frontier's SC is pathetic.

I've noticed a lot of those cars have passed on to other owners now, most of whom seem completely oblivious to the fact that they have non-stock muffler, bumper covers, etc. on them.

The same thing that stops thousands of explosions from melting metal components over time.

So, where do the sharks come in to play?

They usually are. I have a purge setup and all the correct supplies. What do you mean by "dry runs"? Are you talking about making sure I can reach continuously between tacks before starting welding? Should I let the piece cool a lot between the 1/4 circumference welds? I've heard that keeping the heat to a minimum is like #1 or #2 priority. Do I need to purge when tacking? I've heard equal amounts of "Yes" and "No" when I searched. I noticed on a few test pieces that I would get sugar if there were any gaps or if I used any filler. But tacking flush pieces without filler (.5-1.0s of arc) together nothing appeared wrong. It sure makes it a hell of a lot faster to strengthen my mock ups. I have a medium size gas lens and cup, on a 17 air cooled torch. This is not my first stainless project, nor my first manifold project. It is my first stainless manifold though.

I'm making a pair for my VG30, with plans to brace the turbo. I'm using SCH10 304 butt weld fittings. I've been told by everyone, 304 is going to to crack, it won't last long. You should have used 321. My reply is usually: "Yes, it might fail with high heat. But for the price of making ONE manifold out of 321, I can make 3 out of 304." And I'm willing to bet my first complete design could use a few small "revisions" once it's all done.

You should give MS the 6 slot trigger. The CAS should have power (B/W), ground (, and the signal (G/B) connected. MS1 and 2, at least, cannot use the 360 degree part. The signal wire may or may not need to be pulled up to 12v with MS3. I'm not sure where you got your colors from. Are you going off the harness or the sensor?

You'd just have to run a vacuum reference line all the way to the back, and like he said above, it's easier to work with in the engine bay.

But I explained it!

kinda slow.

more like 10%, actually. (1 - percentage)(x) = [price you want] Say you want 15 for shipping, after the 9% fee: (1 - .09)(x) = 15 [where x is the price before the percentage that you will have to charge] (.91)(x) = 15 15/.91 = x = 16.4835 [shipping you charge to get $15 in your pocket] Which is 16.4835/15 = 9.89% So you charge 9.89%. Sorry, I'm doing linear algebra homework and this makes me feel better.

If it's cam spun, try 60.

Pulley CAS? Why's your trigger offset 0?

What car/engine is this? What are you trigger settings?

It's a bay option on mine, an old Dell D510. I don't havenon though. They make USB floppy drives.

What mainboard is that?

I bought TS and MLV a while ago. TS just updated to v1.001, and I noticed a couple added features. (Although, on a side note, it takes forever to inititialize the serial drivers--but I have a feeling my USB to serial adapter is the culprit, not TS). I'd say they are both well made products. Worth getting if you consider how cheap they are for what you get, and since it seems like future MS products will only work with TS. I'd even say that some of the aftermarket EMS have much crapier software, and those aren't exactly cheap...

Fans? What fans? Actually my home server (and router) has a power supply fan now. I went from a fanless power supply, which died, to this one. As luck would have it, one of the cables in my mini-itx case was resting against a blade. Our internet started acting funny and I went to check it out... I managed to see via SSH--right before it locked up--that the CPU was at 105 C. One hard drive was at 80 C (it didn't survive). I don't even know how hot the source of all that heat was, the power supply, but I couldn't touch it for 10 minutes or so. When I managed to see what was wrong and move the wire away, the fan came on at Warp 9. The power supply and my CPU survived (Atom 1.6GHz), which is amazing considering it was past it's critical temperature. But now, even with the PS fan on, it doesn't get very dusty. However, my GF's Core i7 in an Antec 300, on a carpet floor, with cats, gets clogged weekly!