BLOZ UP

I like the color.... for some strange reason. Looks awesome. In light of everyone else's replies... I picked up another block for my s30 today... and I dyno'd a bunch of cars for the z meet today too... hmm... the planets are in alignment, apparently.

very nice looking.

Wait, are you confusing a neutral switch with a clutch switch?

Cool, but I can't see myself owning one.

Awesome thread, and I do doubt Dynojet's dyno's, there are at the low end of the group. However, even with Dynojet's horribly progammed visual basic software in mind, surely that isn't a DOS mode software interface to the dyno... or is it? I used to work at a Dyno shop, and after it went under and leased out to two other shops, I quit since (long story short) my new boss pretended to know a lot more than he really did, and constantly made me look like a fool in front of customers, when in the end I turned out to be right. I wish I could work for a shop like yours. I'd also like to add the letting your car cool off between runs is worthless, if not harmful to your car. Keep it at the nominal temp, most likely when the thermostat opens or right before that for EVERY run. I hate people who want their car to cool off between each run to try and squeeze every hp possible. And amen, AVERAGE HP is far more valuable than PEAK HP.

I just had to touch my t3/t04's compressor wheel when it was spinning at idle... blood lubrication for the win!

wow, that's hot. I can't wait to do suspension on my car....

I still don't think there's been a decent car made since 1999, and this just proves it to me over again. 300hp... but how much does it weigh? 3200... 3500... 3800? and FWD only for the SRT model... uhhhh

I cannot see anyone who could possibly be serious when they do things like that to their car. Maybe I'm getting old... but really... it's getting rediculous...

I see what you mean, I'll take one apart this weekend and see what's what.

Unless you cut it in half and modify to work.

I have this tendency to bash my head and arms on the chrome window frame on the doors on my '72, or any other car that has them. I loved my z31 with the doors without the frame/slides on them (except for the leaks, but that's another story). So, has anyone modified their body to allow this? I imagine it wouldn't be too hard to get it to work, just hard to make it look good.

I cracked a head, of all things on my VG30E. From front to back, a nice big crack. Don't ask how...

Well, no standalone is "plug and play", but I see your point, MS requires a bit more ... DIY. I'm going VG, yes. I'm familiar with Jason's site. I've "built" a VG before, to nearly 400hp. That was on stock internals (well, stock z32tt rods and pistons in it). Yes, his car is fast, his new tuning with the romulator is fantastic: 420whp at, I believe, 16psi on whatever turbo. That's insane. I managed 390hp at 18psi.... Well, anyway, I have a long way to go before I can even put my motor in the car. Good luck with your project! Oh, and have fun with that trailing arm suspension, heheheh.

Do you have the MT ECU? Driveshaft?

Well, the turbo isn't necessary for your car to be driveable. My friend had the same problem, the wastegate actuator rod lost its clip. I kept telling him his z31 wasn't making any boost but he wouldn't believe me for the longest time. Heh, then when he hooked it back up...

That should qualify. If it's not through the same company that you are getting your collector's insurance, then you'll probably have to prove it. No big deal.

MMm, whataburger! Those end tanks don't look too efficient... but I see they clear your rails.

Rising rate regulators are nearly impossible to tune. They are a band-aid fix and are not healthy for your injectors. If you have megasquirt and bigger injectors you shouldn't "need" a rising rate. I used a AEM adjustable FPR on my Z31. The only thing you could change was the base pressure, which I set to 45psi (about the standard rate that injetor sizes are measured at). I used DSM 450cc (440?) injectors. Then you just tune away.

Hm... my impulse says yes, but my gut says no...

Nice. I would recommend and aftermarket programmable computer, I don't trust JWT to tune my ECU without my car. And then try adding more timing (EDIT: as in more advance), especially down low, before you lean it out. With a little fine-tuning, you can get a lot out of these motors. Ehhh, what motor are you running, by the way? For example, here's my VG30ET at 18 psi intercooled, t3/t04e (shameless self-tuning boast):

30 seconds? when after you're at idle? Still, there's enough oil in the bearings to allow this.

Well, you don't really need only 89, you need 87-89 "Kouki" parts. But as far as I know, everything bolts up in the front.