Nigel

So Lazyeye, you were already warned a month ago, numerous times, by several other people that the throwout bearing sleeve (collar) has to match the pressure plate, and you still haven't checked it?

And so, what would you conclude from that?

First question: Did the hydraulics work before you replaced the clutch? If so, then they should function fine with the new clutch, and adjusting everything will just cause yourself more problems. Second question: Are you sure you have the correct throwout bearing sleeve? They come in different lengths (at least 3), and if your original is too short, the clutch will never fully disengage. Nigel '73 240ZT

That's what I did. Some means of limiting the current going into the charging circuit is required, which can be accomplished with either a light bulb OR a resistor. Both are not required, so you can eliminate the resistor. So is the battery holding a charge now? Nigel

I'm confused. Did the battery discharge overnight with the alternator disconnected? In either case, I don't think a diode is going to solve that problem. The diode is typically to prevent the engine from continuing to run after the ignition is shut off Also Nigel

There are simpler designs out there, but this was the first structural welding I've done, so I made it extra beefy. It looks like it's bent in this picture, but it's just an illusion... Test fit... It turned out to be a handy place to mount the fuel pump and pre-filter. The pump is almost level with the bottom of the tank to help with fuel pick up. Nigel '73 240ZT

Hey! Somebody actually used the search function, found something I wrote, and quoted it. It's nice to know I don't post stuff here for nothing! Badjuju, don't waste your time with the '75 tank. It's not worth it. While it does fit in the space, it's not a "bolt-in" swap, and you'll gain very little in the process. As flatblack280 said, go with a surge tank (probably best idea for your horsepower goals), or some of the other options that have been documented here. I've had good luck with the sump welded on the bottom of my tank, but I've only run it down to 3 gallons so far. At least it's far better than the 280 tank I had before. Nigel '73 240ZT

Yes, and if you have a manual transmission, it senses a sudden rise in RPM to know when the clutch has been push in. Nigel '73 240ZT

How else would you close it if not by hand? Nigel '73 240ZT

Don't bother with trying to retrofit the ZX system. Just get the Audiovox CCS-100 cruise control kit. It's a universal kit that comes with pretty much everything you need for the installation. It's especially simple to install if you have a manual transmission. It'll just run off of the tach signal. I've installed these kits in three cars, the first being my 240Z 6 years ago, and it's worked flawlessly ever since. http://www.amazon.com/Audiovox-CCS100-Universal-Vacuum-Control/dp/B00029WQTW Nigel '73 240ZT

I saw that car under construction back in October when the Ontario Z Car Club toured LMC. I can't believe it's finished already! Of course, when you can afford to have a whole team build a car, things tend to go much faster. I remember some one mentioning the price tag, and while I forget the actual number, I do know it was some ungodly, obscene amount. One look at the car and it was obvious why though. There was also a Mustang Shelby with a fascinating independent rear suspension setup. Before anyone asks, I forgot to bring my camera, so I don't have any pictures. Nigel '73 240ZT

I switched to a 280Z tach with a resistor in-line with the coil signal. I don't remember the exact resistor value, but I believe it was around 2.2K Ohm? That might be easier that trying to figure out the tach adapter. Nigel '73 240ZT

I'd be in for sure if it didn't look so rectangular when viewed from the back. I'd like to see the ends taper in for a more trapezoidal shape. (this kind of shape, but not this extreme) It looks great from the other angles I've seen so far though... Nigel '73 240ZT

Strange, that doesn't look like the shift lever I had in my '82 5 speed. That one looks more like the one that came out of my original 4 speed. Nigel '73 240ZT

Did you look in the Ignition and Electrical sub-forum? http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=135557 Nigel '73 240ZT

I mounted my SDS ECU on the driver's side kick panel, and I've never once hit it with my foot. The old Z ECU's are big and bulky, and they put covers over them on top of that. But with a nice, thin, anodized aluminum case, there's plenty of room, and it looks cool too. Nigel '73 240ZT

I'm 6'7" tall, 220lbs, with a 38" inseam. There are only two Z's that I can drive, and they are the 240Z, of which I own one, and the Z31. Strangely, even though it's based on the same platform as the 240Z, I run into problems in the 280Z because I can't fit my knee between the door handle and the steering wheel when I try to operate the clutch. As for the rest of the Z line-up... forget it! I've sat in all of them, and most of them I couldn't drive even if you put a gun to my head. I'd need a triple-jointed leg to get my foot on the gas pedal. It was a real let-down when I finally got a chance to sit in a 370Z. It's the first new Z that I could afford, and would actually want to own, but again, I don't think I could drive it to save my life. And yet, if you park a 240Z next to a 370Z, the 370 looks massive by comparison. I'm sure some of it has to do with safety, like TonyD says, but part of it also has to do with the styling department and the fact that they just don't take into account the 5% of the population that are at the far ends of the scale. Nigel '73 240ZT

Mine went in with no problems. I agree. Here's a cut-away shot of the ES mount: I've run mine for two years now with just the ES mount and I've not had any problems. It hardly flexes at all in any direction. Retaining the stock lower mount just needlessly complicates the installation. The driveshaft bolts are the worst, and without that lower mount in the way, it's a snap to get them in and out now. Nigel '73 240ZT

I wondered what you meant when you said you had "the front diff crossmember modified." Nice idea. But why don't you just get an RT Diff Mount? It'll work on a '71 Z, and it has a proven design. You don't need to mount the diff to crossmember at all with it. Nigel '73 240ZT

A friend of mine has a '71 Z and he's using an AZC mustache bar with no problems. The rear mounting bolts for the mustache bar are in the same location regardless of the year of Z. All you should have to do is turn the front diff rubber mount around 180 deg and everything should line up. This is covered in Jon's sticky! http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=116207 Nigel '73 240ZT

What do you mean by "turn on the key?" Do you mean you're turning the key to the ignition on position? Or are you actually cranking the engine? If you're just turning it to the on position, are you expecting it to spray fuel without the engine actually rotating? Nigel '73 240ZT

Here are some pictures of my installation. Great product Jerry! Nigel '73 240ZT

Oh yeah! I forgot about that. Your post is what sent me off to Home Depot in the first place. Great idea. I really like the extruded aluminum version I found at the Home Depot near me. It looks way more expensive than it really is. Maybe I'll get it anodized some day. I'm not sure if all the Home Depot's carry the same ones. How do you like the spacer I had made up? It takes care of that misalignment issue. You need a longer bolt though. I think I used a 90mm M8? Nigel '73 240ZT

I posted the CS144 output in the thread that KTM refers to in the beginning of this one. Here it is again: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=115550 To summarize, the CS144 puts out 95 amps at 2000 alternator RPM. The stock Z alternator and crank pulley ratio works out to close to 2:1, so if you use those parts on the CS144, you can get close to the 2000 alternator RPM at 1000 RPM engine idle. I installed the CS144 in my Z at the beginning of this year, and this was the first time since adding the EFI system, 17 Amp rad fan and other electrical options that I never once noticed the alternator struggling to keep up. Here's some pictures of my install: Mechanical assembly order: Electrical components: Below is the fully assembled alternator waiting for installation. Note the upper adjustable arm. This is a an extruded aluminum turnbuckle that I got from Home Depot for around $3! The eye's have 5/16" thread, and I picked up a reverse thread jam nut at a local fastener supply store so that I could have jam nuts on both ends (probably overkill). I had a buddy make up a 1/4" spacer to correct for the offset where the arm bolts to the timing cover and to make up the difference in diameter between the eye (1/2") and the bolt (8mm). You could just use some washers to correct for the offset. Below is my modified lower bracket as per HizandHerz writeup. Rather than drill it out for a 10mm clearance hole, I drilled and tapped it with a 10mm thread. But I found that it was difficult to hold the alternator and get the bolt started without cross-threading it. So I ended up just drilling it out and using an extra long bolt and a nut. Here's the final install (ignore the wire and terminal colours. They don't relate to 0 and 12V): Nigel '73 240ZT

Unless you're planning on doing some welding, or you have a monster car stereo, a regular 140 amp CS144 will be more than enough. The IDLE output alone of the CS144 is 20+ amps more than the MAXIMUM output of the OEM 280ZX alternator! Nigel '73 240ZT