Cody 82 ZXT

I love this!!! Did I just now notice it?

I built a encolsure for 1 8" sub a year or so ago. What I did was to put it behind the rear wheel well on the driver side. Use some fiberglass and some MDF or particle board for the shape and strength of the enclosuer. If you go with 2 15's and all the material for the encolsuers you will have one crazy handling Z unless you do some magor suspension mods. All that weight behind the rear tires will screw it all up. Try some smaller drivers with more power.

Well Said

Hey Tim, did they tell you what the normal price is?

Do the DP you'll love it. There are many sources for pipe but, I found JC Whitney to be the least expensive and they have everytthing but, the O2 sensor bung. I just did mine in 3" manderal bends and I know I picked up some major torque and some HP aswell. I haven't gone to the track yet with it but, It sure feels faster to the Butt Dyno.

If you did this it would be compressing to much air which would lead to a air intake charge that would be to hot. Not a great idea. It wuld work but, is not a performance option. I would find out why you are making to much boost with a VNT turbo. Aren't they supposed to have an internal regulator to control the vanes in the turbine housing? Also is this on a L-28? I thought they didn't make a VNT that was big enough for the Z engines?

New bolts are something like 45 bucks or so and a set of ARP studs are 125 or so. In the ARP instructions it says to use less torque on the nuts then you would use on the bolts. Seems like it said 15% or so less torque. I thought it was odd but, did what it said. THe setup felt like it could take a ton of torque conpared to the bolts that felt like they might be having trouble when I was torqueing them down. The bolts are certainly easier to work with though.

I wraped a stock manifold one time and it's just gets to hot. Each time I would look at it after a driving around town (normal driving) it would be red hot. I think the cast manifold just hold to much heat on thier own to use it on them. I think the instuctions on the box say not to use header wrap on a cast maniold.

Can you just order a new shaft? I've never gotten into the insides of a turbo before do I don't know but, it seems like the only real fix to me is to replace the turbo or the shaft. What about balancing the turbo after the fix. Wouldn't that be a proublem?

Tim, are you saying that the car blew the HG while on the road but, on the Dyno it was just fine? Are we talking about that same shop again? If so then come by I'm living in Mesquite now but, we can build and play with the car for much cheaper than they are charging you. One thing you might think about would be a J&S knock sensor thingy. I think they are called a failsafe. Basically it will pulltiming when you are getting near pining or are already there. It all depnends on the sensitivity level you set it at. I've used on before and they really will help you to tune the car when you don't have all the time, knowlegde, and money in the world. Now that I think about it does your DFI have a knock sensor?

Does it run any better?

What a piece of crap. I'm sure he'll sell a few though.

That was cool. I hadn't hooked my speakers up yet but, after looking at it I had to.

I fianlly finished my 3" maderal bent downpipe. Let me tell you it makes a huge difference in the torque and HP output. Not only that it sounds awesome. I looked at the back half of the exhaust and it's total crap. I'm going to order more pipe and do the back half aswell to replace the 3" crush bent system that has been on there for years.

You know the thing that has to go into the manifold to measure the temp. Tempature probe. Thats what they are called right? Also you might adjust the timing a little. The rule of thumb is that more timing will equal less EGT temp. Less timing will have more EGT temp.

The trouble is finding one. I've been calling Jerry for years now. Evertime I find one on the net I'm either to late or just don't have the money to spend on it at the moment. I'd love to get a quaffie but, really it's not the most practiall thing to put on the car at the moment. I took my wife out in the car last night after finishing up the new 3" DP. After some fun in a long corner where I was able to spin the tires in first and all the way through second even after getting off the gas and then back into it. The car of course moved around alot durning the corner and she asked how do we stop that from happening? I got the response I wanted. I need brakes and a LSD.......Always good to have support.

You'll want to look for no ore than 1550* withthe probe located before the turbo. I put mine in the collector right before the turbo. I run 24* of timing. The cra seems to run best and like that setting the most with the current setup.

LJ, if you drive the car at all around town I don't think you'll like the disc type around town. I had once and it was really tough to get the thing going without some sort of major take off or alot of chatter. Ofcourse I did wreak the car before I got the clutch totally broken in. It was way more clutch then I needed at the time so I went with a different one in the next car. I still have the disc somewhere around here if you want to try it. 6 puck metalic.

I think he's serious about that!! J/K LJ, I think I have diragram at work if you need it. Let me know...It would be Friday before I'm back at the store though.

Hey Yo, I did the same thing several years ago. Only I waited about 3 days before going into the Dr. WOW that hurt. I usally think I have a realitivly high pain tolerance but, after awhile it was almost more than I could bear. I even missed the first day of work in 5 years or something. Wear eyewear...... It's actually there for a purpase.

I must admitt now that I think about it some more I did have ZX that one rear brake leaked on. It was a 79 with about 3 Zillion miles on it. Ofcourse the 79's do have differnt brakes than the later ZX's. About compareing the Z to the ZX I think everyone needs to consider what the cars were designed for. The Z a lightweight racer basically. The ZX a heavier more comfortable and power highway car. I've had both and for me driving the car everyday the ZX is the way to go. If I were racing the car I would choose the earliest 240 I could find. Also I really don't feel like the ZX is a wallowing pig if the suspension is atleast up to stock specs. If the bushings and struts etc... are worn out then yes the car is a pig. If it's all tight and done right then the car handles great and runs like a scalled dog. My last outing to the track took me to a 13.4 @ 108. Not to bad for such heavy Z.

Mine was the same way. I spent somme time and money on porting it and the the exhaust manifold. All I can say is that I think it was time and money well spent. It a hassle but, once you get started it's kinda fun. One thing I might suggest is to buy the electric porting tool from Sears or something. They work much better than the air powered die grinders. Not only that they don't seem to wear you out like the light weight air powered kind. Hopefully today I'll get off my butt, and start on my exhaust system.

The main thing that I would check is for a vacuum leak. Like Scotty said try the carb cleaner or what works even better for me is starting fluid. Don't forget to check the weird areas like the dip stick tube and oil cap seal. It's places like this that have driven me crazy over the years but, have given good results when they were found. Also it seems to me like zip tieing your vacuum connections also help sto prevent them from blowing off and to seal them up better. I've even heard of some one who had a rear main seal leak and that was causeing the car to run rough.

Does everyone have this proublem? I've been driving a couple different ZX's over the last 11 years and have never had a proublem. Mine don't get much time to sit though so maybe that's the difference.

I tried to call the # on thier web site but, it always says to leave a message and they will call you back. After several attempts I left a message but, have not recieved a phone call yet. Anyone have any other ideas? Or sources for their product. I'm hoping to get down into the low 13's or maybe even the 12's by the end of summer and it's seems like this should be one of my next steps in getting there. I'm ready to buy just looking for a seller that is ready to sell.