Cody 82 ZXT

Thats a a good one. LOL

Hey Phantom, I'm gonna have to get to a meeting some time to get a ride in your Machine. utvolman99, those Hemi's are nice. My 8 yr. old son doesn't think it's a real truck unless it's got a Hemi.

Only 12 seconds and I didn't think about the crazy picture with the scary dude poping out.

. I agree about the MAF being so much better. I now run the JWT setup and let me tell you it's night and day between the two set ups. I don't know how to explain it but, you can just tell the flapper door is gone. I also built a 3" manderal pipe that connects the MAF tot he turbo and I think also helps to reduce restriction over the crazy wire and rubber stock pipe.

Please see new topic about this.

[qutoe]Sorry to continue the post hijack, but maybe you are confusing synthetic with silicone? Silicone is bad news, and is just designed to be more tolerant of moisture, which is only a problem if you never bleed your brakes, like 99% of car owners. My brakes are not spongy, and the stuff is DOT4. Just like synthetic motor oil, the fluid is more stable at a molecular level, and it's made of generally the same stuff as dino-derived minerals. If I had the same issues with it as LJ, I'm sure I'd say it sucked too, but I don't those issues at all. It works great for me. Nathan, I'm just going off what I've been told from other guys who have used the synthic fluid and been unhappy with it. I'm typically unwary of claims like this since it just doesn't make since but, the guys I got my info from have been very relieable in the past and I see no reason why they would be wrong here. They are very familar with bleeding procedures and all that so I don't know what to tell you. I went ahead and started a new thread for this since it seems to be a good topic for discusion. I know it should have gone in the brake section but, my outlook in it is like this. Since the basic topic got started here and I'm mostly familar with the names of the members who frequent this section I thought it should stay here. Admin. If it needs to be move then Please do so. It's no big deal to me.[/b]

Your boost setting has nothing to do with emisions testing. You could be running 50 psi at WOT and that would have nothing to do with any of the current test that I know of.

What caused it to do that? Did you only loose part of the fiction material? I gotta say that's a nice back drop for a race track.

I've heard before that Synthic Brake fluid sucked. It comes to know surprise that LJ doesn't like it. I think if a brake or what ever system was designed to use it then it would be fine but, since our systems were not then it gives a spongy feel to it.

Looks like you ont he right track so far. I know what ya mean about so much work and so little time.

Seems, like I've been though several of the local autoparts store rebuilt or new Slave C. I think that if you don't get a good one then the increased pressure of the aftermarket PP kills them not to long after the install. I had forgot about it earlier that I had to change mine out also not long after the clutch install. The car had sat for about 6 months and I guess the new PP killed it. Also for what ever reason the alignment of the old one was less than perfect and That caused the piston to rub on the side of the cyclinder hole wearing it out prematurely also. You can get a rebuild kit and use a brake hone to clean up the cylinder walls if need be. The rebuild kit is 6 bucks or so and a new one from Autozone is soemthing like 14 bucks or so and I think has some sort of warrenty.

I had to adjust my clutch pedal also when I put in this latest clutch. I bet if you look into it that will be your proublem.

Also make sure you get the right blades. It makes a huge differnce no matter which saw you have.

The Saws-All is the best tool for doing exactly what the name says. I love mine. As for the Harbor Feight model. I'll put it this way; I used one for about 2 years to do intercooler pipes and some exhaust work. A month ago I got fed up and went and bought a Dewalt. I think I stipped the gears. Yes is was more than double the price but, its double the tool. If money is an issue then go with the Harbor Freight model unitl it's used up then upgrade.

Now I see what your doing. Thats some intreasting gearing on the tranny. Are you running an Auto trans? Or is out of the Skyline or something like that?

Thats some serious stuff! 4.88's? I take it you only Drag race the car?

Thanks Scottie, you've got some good points about the wastegate hole not being centered perfectly. I'm not real sure about this one but, I remember some of the turbos that I've had in the past the puck was very off center. Honestly I really dread taking the turbo off and doing all this since right now my backup car is down. That makes major surgery on the Z alittle more difficult to do all in one day or afternoon. I'm going to look at the hoses for the Profec and make sure they are routed in as straight of path as possible. After that I'll have to get in touch with Alex for a larger puck. By the way how do you reattach a puck anyway?Is it welded on? I don't remember. Len, I really like the Profec B it's the simpler model of the line. I had a Profec A but, it kinda went crazy and started to do weird things. Also if you make any changes to the system you have to go out and let the Profec relearn your setup. The learning process is simple but, not the most practicle thing to do any place other than a dyno or race track. If your like me you change this relativley often. I did like the Profec A while it was working correclty. It has several features that are nice like programable over boost protection. Ofcourse the only time you really need this is if the unit is acting crazy.

I thought that you guys would say I needed to port the wastegate hole. While I'm at it the housing could be ported as well. I almost did before I put everything together but, ran out of time. Looks like I should have made the time. Now, I'll be able to port the outlet of the turbine as well. Anyone have a recomemdation for how big not to go? MY DP has a 2 1/4 hole for the first 1/2 or so. Should I cut this off and make it 2 1/2?

Ever since I have upgraded my fuel injection system and installed a 3" manderal bent DP I'm having a proublem controlling boost. It only does it when I'm first getting into boost. Running 15psi it will spike to 16 or 17 then back down to 15. Ocaasionally it will creep up and stay there. I've tried to adjust the settings on my Profec B but, it doesn't seem to help. Any ideas of what is causing this other than more power and freer flow. Do I need to port the wastegate hole? My turbo is a hybrid with a t04B unknown compressor wheel and stage two or three exhaust wheel.

I read about it being done to a VW engine one time and for some reason that idea has always stuck in my head. Just imagine the compressor tank you could fill up with it.

Adam, thats been the proublem with the ZX brakes set-up's So far I know of two set-ups Mike's http://www.fonebooth.com/brakes_zcar.html and Ross's http://www.modern-motorsports.com/catalog/default.php I have bought items from both and would do so again. They are both about 1000 bucks give or take 100. What I'm hoping is that Juan will be able to provide a similar setup for the 280 ZX as he has for the Z cars. I personally wouldn't mind buying my own other parts as long as the adapters and the rotor hats fit what is out there to buy and fits the ZX perfectly. It doesn't seem all that hard but, what do I know about this type of thing. I'm sure like everything there is more to it than there seems like when you first get into a project. Anything done right takes time. Count me in for the vote for ZX brake kits or parts.