Cody 82 ZXT

All looks good. I like the ZX on the top piece. How about a pic of the rear brace. I've made some myself and would like to see what other people have done.

Friday night I went to the track with a couple other Z guys from the Dallas area. My best time of the night was: R/t ... -.088 opps 60' ... 2.072 330... 5.610 1/8 ... 8.456 MPH... 88.36 1000... 10.926 1/4... 12.987 MPH.. 107.84 This was ofcourse the best of the night and I just ran the one 12 but, ran several low 13's earlier in the evening. The tempature was hot and most of the guys were saying the track was slippery.

That was certainly differnt. Like the "Dubs" on the tank idea.

17x7.5's on all four corners

Did you find the link with the program in it? If so will you post it. I couldn't find it.

If I remember correctly you can make almost 400 hp with 2" without to much drag. Tony F. had a excellent Excell program that had all the hard work done for us. Do a search and see if you can find it.

Wow, at rates like that Hybrid Z would be rich!!!!! Thats just crazy.

"it just seems that every time i ride out everyone wants to run me from chick in c5 to some other chick in some kia 4 door sedan lol. yeah it sure is nice driving z and not working on it for change." Man, I never get anything like that. I've got to really egg someone on to get them to run me most of the time. After the A** kicking I give them they all have the Slack Jaw look and the thumbs up. It's not like my car looks like a beater or something. I just don't get it. By the way Phantom, Did you see the post in announcement section about going to the Motorplex this Friday. I think I may actually get to go! I'd love to have another Zer out there.

A friend of mine is using one on his WRX. He says it works fine.

Thats cool. My son has a Eastern collard lizard in a tank setup very much like that. Some time he sits on top screen for days at a time. Looks funny but, I guess he likes it.

If you can cut it like LJ said and then weld it back together like Tim said. The cost of the hose's and the trouble of the clamps loosening over time will be a pain in the rear. Welding pipes is so much better in the long run. You'll be glad you took the time and effort to do it right.

What FP are you running now?

You might try some taller rear tires. This would give you a better contact patch and keep your gear ratio where your car needs it. Also what type os boost controller do you have?

I have to say that much more than I expected. Really makes me want to hit the dyno now. Nice #'s keep it coming.

Well, I stayed out of your last post so I could see what would happen. The weight and the suspension setup make it tuff to get off the line. I haven't had much luck in the traction dept. Thats a nice mph and your right 12's shouldn't have been a proublem. I'm in the same boat you're in. Decent mph but, no starting line traction. I've installed a LSD and I'm hoping that will help atleast but, haven't had a chance to get back to the track yet. Keep at it and it will improve.

They did that so they could see who was best at catching their shirt sleeve on the fan blade. Nice looking swap though. I know those motors can produce some good power.

Save as worked for me..

I agree with you about the hardparts of the motors being the most focused on here as well as with many set-ups. I've certainly been guilty of that myself many times. Seems like if you ask what a good combination for a turbo car is for "this" much money then you'll get 10 differnt replys that all are good answers. As for the tuning I think that the lack of adjustablitlity with the stock setup is one reason for only a few answers. Really there are not all that many guys that have aftermarket computers or experience in a shop to provide real answers. I recently changed computers in my car and still can't believe the total differnce of the before and after aspects of the car. So much more power and so much better drivablity. The computer really brought all the hardparts together just as I had hoped it would. I'm sure that another system that is user tunable could be even better optimsed if I had the time, money and knowledge to do so.

I don't know about you guys but, I don't get all that many races from cars that are actual competion. Most of them think they are to fast to use thier gas on me. I do have several ricers that rev at me when at the light.

I have to say I've always admired your outlook on things. Yet another good move.

I don't think that you can make a direct coralation between an exact A/F ratio and a degree of tempature. The temp would be different for every car. Some cars will better at regecting more heat and some will absorb more heat. The information that I gave should only be used as a guide. I tried to state that in my post but, maybe I was not clear enough about it. An EGT is a tuning tool not the absolute answer to tuning your car. If you do not have a Dyno with a wide band or can't afford to sit on the dyno and have the work done it is a good tool to use when making changes. I'm not trying to say that an EGT gauge is a replacement for a wideband O2 only that the $50 A/F ratio gauges are not very accurate when used with a simple O2 sensor and that a EGT is a better guide as to what is going on with a setup. Another good thing is still the tried and true method of reading your plugs after a hard run. I agree with you that we have members of the board that have spent the time and money on Dyno time but, I never seem to get to much of an exact answer when I see this question posted. I think that is because there is no exact answer for this situation. I'm sure someone here can post better or more accurate temps then what I have givin but, these are what has worked well for me and some others that I know.

I use the Autometer brand EGT that you can get from Summit, Jegs or wherever. As far as tuning you would want to shoot for about 900* when around town, 1200* to 1300* on the highway cruising. Max power is developed at about 1500* to 1550*. The longer your in boost and on the gas the higher the temps will get. I shoot for about 1550* at the end of 4th gear on a full run. I've been told that hitting 1600* is ok but, don't go over that. These temps are with the probe installed before the turbo in the collector. Something to consider is that timing will effect your temps as well A/F ratio. Retarded timing will be increased temps and advance timing will lower temps. Since every car is different then you just need to get as close to stock as possible and then start playing with it from there. Document as much as possible if you have the ability to make several changes like with a aftermarket F.I. Ofcourse a session on a dyno with a wideband O2 and the EGT would be a good way to know for sure where your at with your A/F ratios and power levels. Small changes in boost levels can bring big changes in temps when using a large tubo or one that is out of it's effency range. It's always tempting to increase the boost some but, that can lead to bad things if your not careful.

They are about 130.00 for the gauge and the sending unit. Much more costly then the A/F ratio gauge but, this one actually give you real information.

Get an EGT gauge and use it to tune with. Autometer makes it in Phantom aswell.

The motor itself is very basic just a J/Y motor with new bearings, timing gear, valve job, and a clean up pass on the head, lightened stock Fywheel. The new stuff is the JWT computer and the 3" manderal downpipe. Lests just say those two mods really transformed the car. The car is so much stronger than it ever was before. I can't wait to get to the track again this summer since I installed a LSD and have a better feel for what I can do with the car.