seattlejester

With the low compression L28ET, a gtx3067r seems like it would be a pretty good fit for a fast 350-400hp. I'm not sure the compressor map would support a claim of 500hp or more though. Generally for cruising you aren't in boost. If you wanted variability in low to high you are going to have a pretty large wastegate to manage the exhaust and an electronic boost controller to differentiate from cruising to full power. HX35 seems like it may support the power just looking at the size of the compressor exducer wheel, but I believe their hotside choices are designed for large displacement diesels. For spool if we take the fact that diesels run at a higher compression ratio basically and add that to the large displacement, then reduce that by the revs you can get some semblance of an idea for how late the threshold would be. Anecdotally on a 2.5Lish motor people are reporting boost doesn't come on till 4k or more. Depending on your rev limit that could be something as small as 2.5k rpm window of boost. By comparison my turbo a BW S257sxe a 7670 with a small hot side overboosts to over 20lbs before it hits 4k rpm in a 3L motor. It used to be to have a turbo that can support 500+hp while having a low spool meant you had to do some fancier tech like compound turbos, QSV's, or twin scroll. While that definitely helps, with things like hybrids and better tech you can spool a large compressor wheel to a small hotside, you will reach a point where the hotside is too much of an exhaust restriction though.

It might be 7154 by my nomenclature, I looked up an ad for it, if I still remember the formula looks like this turbo will support 400 or so hp at a whopping over 2 bar or 30lbs of boost according to the compressor map while still being pretty efficient at .75. The listing says it supports up to 500hp, while the compressor map shows that it can go to high 40's CFM that would be at the lowest efficiency on the chart of about .6. It reminds me of like the old school hybrid T3/T4 turbos, just with a more modern wheel and ball bearings. Probably a good fit to push about 400hp, in theory with the right hot side it should still ramp up pretty quick, but maybe sacrifice the top end probably being at or under 400hp. If you went with a bigger hotside you might get over 400hp, but would have a later threshold. This is all in theory and looking at charts, no first hand experience of course.

Without looking up any information and looking at just the chart, I would assume it would be a 7654 by my nomenclature? The 76 is kind of a nice sweet spot for pretty darn good power numbers, but the smaller turbine inducer makes me think the hot side would be really really small, most likely to help spool smaller engines I'm think SR20, EJ22, K20. If you are putting this on an L28 with higher compression numbers you might be spinning it quite fast and build a lot of boost early, but have it run out of steam higher up. Granted given the bigger compressor size it would move lots of air very quickly before it ran out of puff.

Trying to fix

Trying to fix

I screwed up, I merged the wrong threads...I'm going to try and see if I can undo it...

I think the threads that are in the FAQ sections are locked either by design to prevent clutter or by accident. If you want to reply to those posts, I can move them to the L-28 engine section. It will break any hyperlinks to them unless I leave a redirect link. Prepost edit: I'm going to move them so you can reply.

Sorry guys, I believe it is the way it is setup, it really should be a locked forum where useful topics are sent to for reading, I believe to be used as a reference not as a place to post questions. I'm trying to move posts as soon as I see them in the correct section. I'll try and move your guys posts into the correct threads and see if there is a way to prevent posts in there.

Welcome to the forums! Please take a moment to familiarize yourself with the rules if you have not already. Please note you have posted in the FAQ section, that section is generally for walk throughs and information posts and thus does not allow replies. I have moved your post to the brake and suspension section where people will be able to reply to your post. I am not exactly familiar with that kit, but I believe it is the same as the maxima calipers and brackets and as a result that is a fairly regularly reported item where the pad grabs the rotor completely but does not utilize the inner portion of the rotor. Similar to the picture found in the FAQ section. It has been shown to be not problematic and I believe you will be fine, but I will let others chime in.

The 240sx throttle body is a pretty common swap so I imagine so. The 3 pins are a pretty good sign. You can find out with a multimeter if you have a power supply, set it to volts and supply power and ground the ground appropriately and see if the third pin outputs at a range (from 0-5v most likely) as you play with the throttle blade. Or you could do the same with the multimeter with the ohm setting I think, resistance is always something I need to review before use, but I believe you should see a varying value with one of the pins when referenced to I think the power pin or the ground pin. Or...that might not matter which pin you reference as long as you read a resistance change as long as it includes the output pin.

The things I would do if I had time, space and money. I think my ideal design would be: Start at the plane where my harness bar currently is, make a hoop that goes to the top and welds to the roof. Have the sides so it bolts to the factory holes or just go all out and gusset to the side, goes through the wheel well and welds to an out rigger that welds to the frame rail connector. The legs go back and hits the shock tower, then continues back and hits the floor with a cross brace, continues through the floor and comes out through the rear panel where it has a plate so I can do a sacrificial rear bumper/bash bar that has an integrated jacking point tucked under the car that meets up with the bars that went through the floor. Speaking of I forgot I have an inner brace for the rear subframe where my fuel cell mounts, basically a 1x1 box structure that bolts to welded brackets on the sub frame to hold my fuel cell. I guess my rear is even more together than I thought.

If you tie in the suspension towers than a half cage would make a difference, although at that point a triangulated strut brace like PDK or I think even now TTT sells would be pretty effective pretty much similar to the last one you have. I'm not sure there would be an additional benefit, granted I guess you could argue you are tying it to a wider leverage arm in the chassis if it flexes at the bulkhead like rturbo says. I've got some heavy duty subframe connectors and I still feel like the car likes to do the twist, I guess I have never been in the car without them though, so my standard might just be really off or based off of modern unibody structures.

Yea, I make no qualms, my bar is not very good. They mount to a piece of 2x2 welded into the trunk. I should revisit it with some revisions, I've also contemplated just removing it altogether. The bar is sitting on a centered 3x3 plate if I remember so it could move maybe an inch or so back I think, but it is pretty tight, I think as you mention the only way to get tighter is to cut into the rear wheel wells which I have seen, but welding in the bigger tube around it and getting the weld at the bottom would probably be quite the task. I don't think you can lean it back without shortening the height quite a bit, I don't have a map light, but I think this sits right in front of where the roof reinforcement is where the light monuts. At the height it is at, if the seat could recline I could sit under the bar with my helmet on. Any shorter and the bar would have to be leaned back even further if you didn't want to risk helmet contact. I think my bars thickness is SCCA, but it has a bend on the "legs" and is a bolt in, bolt together type cage so pretty sure it doesn't meet any requirement there. Yea my car is not a very good street car and it gets driven pretty infrequently. I will admit it is kind of nice having the harnesses and the roll bar in because it makes it a bit more of an event getting in, visually it looks pretty nice, and if I rolled over I think it would keep the roof up, if I got rear ended though I feel like it would possibly just roll forward given where the rear legs mount.

Hmm I didn't really think of the rear bulkhead area as being a flex point, but I can kind of see that now, the front is really easy to see as a hinge point, I've seen it do its thing with one side rusted out. I've seen some at junkyards folded like a bananna on the side with the battery with how they leave the cars. The black makes it a bit hard to see, but it is pretty tight to the rear wheel well. The stock seat has a pretty thin frame so it can move back and forwards, but with my recaro knock offs and my sparco R100 the hinge for the seat sits right up against the leg of the roll bar so I can recline it one click even though the seat could probably recline 3 or 4 clicks if the hinge wasn't blocked. My point about the ones on the rear wheel well was kind of towards that though, I was thinking it won't do much so making sure it doesn't affect seat choice would be preferable. My bar is pretty bad to start with, but now I'm thinking if it can actually be made somewhat useful. rturbo makes a good point regarding seat belts, the bar definitely covers up the stock mounting point. I've seen brackets that space the seat belt mount back for some cars, alternatively I guess you could weld a mount onto the roll bar? I'm not sure from a safety perspective. Honestly being a bit on the larger side, being able to buckle in the middle versus down in the corner is not a downfall in my case.

The pretty popular harness bar using the safari cage mount points would do the trick pretty well. Also just saw your questions for some reason I missed them the first time. My bars are pretty visible given mine are painted white, my insurance agent and company didn't comment on them, they were more interested in making sure the panels were more or less in good shape. I think the way a roll bar is doesn't add too much stiffness unless you weld it to the roof like JMortenson says. I have subframe connectors, welded in strut bar, and a roll bar and the hatch still doesn't want to close straight if I park off camber

Not sure how much stiffening it is doing unless as Jmortenson says you are welding/gusseting to the car. From a use standpoint I'd seriously consider the ones that mount on the wheel well for a street Z. Unless you keep it real tight you are going to lose backwards travel in your seats if you push it down towards the floor. I've got about 3 inches or so I can't use because of my little box for the main hoop. For harness mounting I think the diagonal with the harness bar might be preferable to mounting it at the rear shock tower just from an angle perspective.

That is funny, that is actually the one I am looking at. I have an ACT Extreme sprung 6 puck that came with the adapter plate, but I think the clamp force is more than I want. I've heard good things about south bend so I was looking at either that kit or the one step above with the endurance disc.

Everything helps, I have some ideas, but seeing some of the angles involved will be useful. It is the one with the adapter plate, so I do have to use the custom flywheel, but it has replaceable friction surfaces which look awfully similar to the JZ ones.

The R154 with the short shifter is pretty interesting. Everyone always comments on it. Super short, pretty stiff. I imagine the CD009 is quite a bit smoother. I forget where, but I've seen people just cut and move the shifter bucket and the shifter clevis forward the same distance. Doesn't look pretty, but costs nothing, so that is my plan, if you can find some pictures that would be useful. Would you happen to have any pictures of your engine mounts? Any leg up I can get on planning will help me out. I looked and my transmission right now sits behind or at the firewall, you need to use the angled side of the wrench to tighten the bolts. Moving it forward 4 inches seems almost daunting.

I mean with the collins adapter kit, I can use any single plate 350z kit, so my options are pretty good and hopefully with the shifter set I won't need to investigate more options. The R154 has its fair share of clutch options as well, but it does need a shifter relocator to be perfect.

Welcome to the forums. Of the two choices, I'd make the guy a stipulation on buying the car at that price, if it doesn't run with a new battery, then you have some negotiating room. I agree with turbo 930. I would honestly put thoughts of a swap out of your head for the moment. Spend it on getting things nice and reliable. Have you talked to your dad about insurance? A 16 year old with a 40+ year old 2 door sports car is going to cost an arm and a leg. Make sure you have some money saved up for things like insurance, gas, and basic maintenance. Once you know the car won't be troubling you any more, then you can start looking into making a mod fund. Keep in mind an engine swap is quite a bit more than just an engine and a transmission.

Sooooooooo... Of the things that I'm solving which include rerouting the wastegate, making a jig for shortened knuckles, redoing much of the wiring, and buttoning up some small annoyances, something new has come into the picture -- a CD009 transmission. A friend and I were talking about grabbing some, and two popped up, so we ended up road tripping down to portland and grabbing them. I figured for a couple hundred, I could buy it and leave it as an option down the road. Oddly enough, a couple days after I paid for them, a local decided to part out his never finished drift build, which happened to have a very well priced stage 4 collins adapter 2jz to CD009 adapter kit. Now picking both of those up was a bit more than I wanted to have just invested in parts, which leads me to the uncomfortable road where I have to make a choice. The CD009 is in many aspects a better transmission. Holds more power, better syncros, 6 gears etc. On the other hand looking at Exposed's build thread his trans ends about 4 inches in front of the fire wall, add a 1/2 inch adapter and you are sitting at about 5 inches in front of the firewall. My current R154 has not given me too many problems. It has fought me a handful of times getting into gear, but can hold my current power level, and will be able to hold whatever I throw at it with a drift motion rebuild. The thing it has going for it is it brings the engine almost in line with the firewall, and the fact it is already in the car. Price wise I need to spend a couple hundred more to fit the CD009 (input shaft, new drive shaft made up, shifter relocator kit, shifter) and a bit of time (new trans mount, new engine mount, extend exhaust). I could probably sell my R154, clutch kit, lightened fly wheel, bell housing adapter, short shifter etc for close to if not more than what I have into the CD009. On the other hand, if I kept the R154, I could profit quite a bit due to how much of a deal I got on both the CD009 and the adapter kit. I wouldn't have to fabricate anything, and if I needed to I could get it upgraded in the future. I just need some other opinions here.

It is rotational and it is only in reverse correct? It doesn't seem like it is the axle or the axle input into the diff as the movement seems smooth, at least on this side. If we think about it, when you are in reverse short of your revers gear engaging and the drive shaft and wheels spinning the opposite way, the only thing that changes is the load. When you accelerate the rear squats and the front lifts. When you put it in reverse the rear would pickup a little bit. It is rotational so it can only be in a couple of places. I would check your axles or your drive shaft or areas around it for witness marks. You might be lifting the rear up and in reverse and at that angle your axle is rubbing your sway bar or the front of your diff mount might be pushing down and your drive shaft or flange might be contacting your exhaust. A helpful test would be to go up a hill, make sure it is clear and let the car roll backwards with the car in neutral and the car in reverse and see if the noise is only there under one condition or the other. That would help determine if it is load based. Additionally a picture would help here quite a bit an SR20 swap usually entails a transmission swap, means conversion drive shaft, trans mount, lots of things change and it could be something obvious like poor drive shaft engagement or driveshaft angle or something of that nature which would be difficult to guess. It sounds too distinct to be like a wheel bearing grumble or like skipping teeth. Sounds like the axle is hitting bolts or loose control arm mounts skipping with traction, hard to tell.

Goodness your patience. Looks really clean though!

Restoring post from symbol breakage