seattlejester

I mean it seems you got into this "mess" because you did not. While you would hope someone who runs a business would be reliable, a healthy dose of skepticism and independent research would not have put you here. Same thing for this place, while we are more technical, and the amount of information and knowledge here is insanity at times, you really don't know who is giving you advice. Your best line of defense is to do your own research at which point you wouldn't ask "what should I use," you would ask, "of these choices X, Y, and Z what would be the easier, simpler, more accurate, easiest to maintain, etc etc etc." People can chime in with their opinion, maybe offer an option you have not even considered, but walking in blind asking for recommendations is another good way to end up here with a post of "ignition help needed" detailing how you followed someone else's recommendation and are screwed again.

Make an effort, do your own research. That is something you have to figure out for yourself. You need something that rotates with the engine. If you want sequential it has to move with the cam, if you don't care then it can move with the crank. Both systems will require a missing tooth to signal the location in rotation. Gut the distributor and weld on a wheel and sensor setup, bolt a trigger wheel and sensor onto the crank. Cut the bell housing and drill holes in the pressure plate/flywheel. Options are as creative or as lazy as you want here. Whatever injector you decide you have to decide. That is what will get you your injector clips and fuel rail spacing which you will need when wiring up your harness, unless you plan on having a plug, then you can wire up the plug and wire up the other end when you figure out what injectors you want. The stock 250cc won't take you very far though. This will also factor in if you need a resistor box or not which will have to wired in inline, best decide that now. If you have the tools to cut and re-bead charge pipes then really it doesn't matter, you can run a 45* coupler off the throttle body then a 135 to the intercooler. Most supra guys that run that setup actually go down as they have room behind the headlight. We don't have as much of a luxury in that regard. Just something to keep in mind, especially given a non-ebay throttle body for that intake is $3-400, with reports of the ebay style not doing well under boost and vacuum on some runs (warping the throttle blade), made me shy away from them. The real mustang throttle body for that one is ridiculous, and that sizing is really overkill.

How are you going to signal for ignition? Trigger wheel? 2jzgte timing gear and sensor? Stock injectors are woefully inadequate. They are like 250cc, figure out your power goals and order accordingly. The ebay throttle body for that intake manifold is massive and will be a bit problematic to clear the radiator, advise adapting to a different pattern or at least sticking a wedge to tilt the throttle body. Other than that, it should be really straight forward to wire up. Order a 10ft harness from DIY for the ECU you have and start laying it out.

With the right setup you can do decently at home, the problem is it is hard to really invest in something you might do for a very limited time. I gave away my whole setup once I was done with it, probably broke even for the amount of blasting I did. If I sold it probably could have come out on top a bit. So there is indeed some merit in having a professional tackle it. It really is a matter of how much you value your time, with the factor of reliability of the shop doing the work. If you can find a place that has a proven track record with a set time frame that would be great, but the unfortunate thing you run into is that those time frames can be moved or changed, and sometimes you will find 90-95% completion, something you don't notice until you get home, then have to spend a ridiculous amount of time fixing or trying to get the last 5-10%. The last item I had blasted still had caked on grease/dirt. I think the guy just missed it as the piece filled up with blasting media an stuck to it. Innocent mistake on his part, but I had to spend 2-3 hours with a pick taking all that stuff out. If you aren't a stranger to welding and such, sand blasted material is really nice to work with as a base. A bit of acetone or ethanol to get rid of the small grits and it welds nicely. Some samples, that is with a harbor frieght blaster, dual air compressor setup. You really can't beat a sandblaster for the odd curvatures and such. The ospho stuff you really want to tackle with a wire brush or something before you coat it. The things like the brake booster with the possibility of the reaction disc having fallen out over the last 40 years was easy to just drop off and exchange for a reman.

You do bring up a good point. I had to run tandem air compressors to keep up with the demand, the energy bill was kind of nuts with a couple days of blasting in. Harborfreight had a better style blaster (not a propane tank looking one) that worked a lot better in my opinion, if you sifted sand you could get through the whole thing. V-fib went all out in there. It was surprisingly gone in his car. He took out all the spot welds and we fabricated a new floor and cabin intake to weld in. Honestly really over kill unless you can really see a lot of rot in that area, I can't imagine how much work it will be to fit the cowl panel again and seal the windshield in. I just ospho'd mine on the sides. They do sell ospho paint/rust converter that works ok on light rust. Aircraft stripper will not only burn you, but the fumes or toxic and a nerve agent, really really bad stuff.

I agree, if one had the money I think having it dry ice blasted would be pretty neat, no moisture involved really, cools as it blasts. All the other bits I couldn't find locally which killed the price in shipping. Financially I don't think you could beat the price of sifted sand. I did find and try baking soda. That is way too soft to really get at surfaces. It would leave things like rubber and gasket intact, probably why it was suggested for things like aluminum. I've heard similar things for walnut, a bit too much on the soft side. I do agree with big thin panels sand might be a bit too abrasive though. Make sure to get a regulator to control pressure and apply at an angle for any spots of that nature, but those might be better suited for a wire brush anyway over blasting. Regardless if you have decided to blast inside the garage, make sure you have a kill room so to say setup with air flow out controlled. I still had sand in the rafters and stuff, that stuff really does get everywhere, you really don't want to think about having to pay for replacement heaters and stuff because you stuff up the intake and stuff.

For sure, I blasted in my garage, spent the rest of the weekend cleaning up. I did find they make special heavy duty vinyl that you can stack weights on, pull them up to the rafters, then you just vent at the top, all the sand is heavy so it stays inside, sweep and re-use. I still wouldn't want to do it indoors though. Also just a word of advice fine silicate particles are extremely hazardous to your health. Use a quality respirator under the blasting hood if you value your lungs in any way. A needle scaler is also quite nice if you have room to get it on the surfaces. Much less of a mess. The panels do take a beating so maybe on floors and unseen spots, I wouldn't use one on the outside panels.

Damn you and your single teaser pic. Can't wait to see how it turns out. I think that will be a very cool take. Looks like a flared cool z car, then open up the bonnet and find the insanity.

Dipping is quite the challenge if you don't have a high volume shop and a transport method. It is one of the most sure fire ways for sure. You could have someone blast the hard to reach places, I think the local rate is about a dollar a minute for spot jobs. Blasting will definitely test the metal, if it is corroded it will have holes blown in it. Dipping would be more telling as the weak panels would no longer be there and any rust would be neutralized for the most part. You could alternatively either get a sand blaster for the harder to reach areas and spot blast them (sandblasting is super messy, I would suggest doing this outside/in the backyard/ a neighbors dirt lot etc), or cut to give yourself better access and replace the panels down the road. A little blasting setup is not too bad. You can get a setup for about $200 compressor and blaster from harbor freight. Trying to get a flex brush all the way in there would be quite a challenge without good access.

Hard to tell, but some of those spots look awfully pitted, some look like just discolored/surface rust. Downfalls to blasting are the expense and the chance of warping, but blasting definitely will tell you if the panel or area is able to withstand regular use. For me it would be a mindset kind of thing, just encapsulating rust is a bandaid, something that I will have to remember and always plan on addressing sometime in the future. If you lived by the ocean and it was going to rust anyway, then it might be fighting a losing battle, but having pictures and being able to show receipts may be useful in the future when or if you even sell the car or have a claim on it.

Question for those that are running the timer based setup. Do you have problems with the running lights/headlights on? I accidentally only ordered one of these so I figured I would install it under the steering column. The flashers work great now with no other lights on. When I turn on the running lights though, one side just grows a bit brighter and stays on. Am I missing something here? Or do I need to replace the second one on the passenger side before it will work with the running lights on?

Appreciate the comments guys. Good looking out. Still stalking craigslist for sure. I'm honestly pretty sold on the Everlast for very similar points you make above. The size is a big plus, and the simplicity in some regards is nice as well. Second would be the Alpha, but at the same time I feel like I will most likely just set and forget some of the dials, and the size makes it a bit more daunting to carry around to friend's houses when they need help. I do have my eye on I think it is called the dynasty line from the big blue down the road if I really get into it, but I think this will mostly be for a bit of intercooler fabrication realistically so probably overkill . Although I would like to try a manifold or two for some adventurous friends. Just some other local thoughts I have gotten: A local garage has two everlast units that they have used to build a couple cars and they seem pretty happy with them. Asking around at the welding shop, I was surprised to hear that their opinions are kind of changing. Of course they all had a red or a blue, but at the same time the feeling was that they have gotten almost disturbingly competitive, they had no problems recommending it for a first machine for a hobby welder with the caveat of warranty and parts.

I may be misreading this, but if you mean a liquid nitrogen bath would hold temp better then dry ice and acetone, they would both hold their temperatures respectively well. We do dry ice and 200 proof ethanol to flash freeze. Use half crushed dry ice and half of the bigger pieces, the smaller pieces will super cool the ethanol as it evaporates and the bigger chunks will maintain the temperature. Until the big pieces fully evaporate you won't have any problem with maintaining a low temp. If you mean either liquid nitrogen or dry ice and acetone, then disregard. Although I will say if you have access to liquid nitrogen it might be cheaper, granted you would have to probably borrow a doer and container if you wanted to keep it around a while, whereas with dry ice and acetone we use a variety of containers.

Linkage bind would also be my guess off the bat. It might move freely, but keep in mind the torque source is going to apply an odd load as it twists as well as rotates so it may bind, my old motor kept blowing fuses when I switched to a single blade because the added load was just too much. You can look at the fuse and see if it glows as the wiper runs then you know it is near the amperage limit. If it is not the linkage, then the assumption would be the motor. A DC motor will catch intermittently as the carbon brushes wear on it, so if you start on a good spot it will go if not it can be intermittent. If the motor is good, then it will be the control "board" or wiring. There is a stop signal to signal the motor to come down to park the blades at the bottom if you turn it off up top. If that signal is being sent incorrectly then it could cause intermitent problems, alternatively it could be a fault in the harness, lord knows that can cause any number of unforeseen issues.

That is pretty pricey for just a mig, never even heard of the brand. Also I'm looking for a tig, so getting another mig would not be very helpful given I already have one.

I think the later is300 2jz don't have distributors, early sc300 and gs300 I believe did. You can get a trigger wheel on the crank pretty easily and making a mount for the HES isn't too bad if you want to open up your choices for timing control. The denso injectors are fairly interchangeable. The 2jzge rail and intake manifold will fit 7mgte or rx7 injectors with little to no modification. If you want to swap to bosch though now would be a good time to do so as injector conversion harnesses can be expensive if you have painstakenly wired in all the stock injector clips. Coolant temp can definitely be piped into megasquirt. TPS can be re-used, or you can run pretty much any throttle body with an appropriate range. I have a 7mgte, dexter has a 1uzfe, and many others are running the vh45de throttle bodies. I'm not sure about the knock sensor. I'd honestly really like to get mine up and running as a safety precaution.

Guidelines really. Unless you have access to a good tuner with experience or a dyno to really dial it in. You could ask a local performance shop that has experience what they like to see, although some do treat that stuff as trade secrets.

Really not much benefit to sequential if you don't need the advantage of the longer pulse duration you can get away with. I am running semi sequential or multi squirt so I am already kind of taking advantage of it as is. We had a whole long discussion on the semantics of it. Basically though the repeating theme was that there was little to no benefit in the power category. Only some efficiency down low to gain. CPS sensor is really quite pricey. I had two to play with and they both had fairly discolored wires. I had to chop quite a bit before I could get some wire that wasn't all green and corroded. CPS sensor also didn't play nice with my MS board, the signal it output was really low. I couldn't get it to read reliably until 400rpm with a drill. The car cranking I think maxed out at like 150-200rpm so the CPS wouldn't even recognize the starter trying to start. I did mess around with pots and such, but that was the best I could get it to go.

Before you bug someone else, make sure you look into getting them all the info they need. Injectors you are going to use, your ignition method, your sensors etc. Would be a real shame if you had to cut up a new harness. Would be understandable as well if you wanted to forgo outside services, granted I've heard nothing but good things. I've seen some bad radio jobs, and we have probably seen our fair share of botched swap harnesses. Just take a step back or ask a friend to evaluate your wiring, see if they would be comfortable running it. If not, get to a point you feel real comfortable with. I don't proceed anymore until I can do a full tug, and afterwards I throw on the multimeter to check for a continuity drop as I twist the connection to make sure no break occurs. Other than that a modern radio is probably just as complicated in some regards. Just keep track and make it easy for someone to double check your work.

That is very clean, you definitely won't have any problems with that mustache bar.

Goodness. 1st shop is lame. 2nd shop is wrong. DIY is right. I have a MS2 running my 2jz on batch fire. 3rd I honestly don't know. Well they do have plug and play units for the 2jzgte, the na group kind of gets left out since we have a distributor. Depending on what ignition setup you are going with will determine kind of what megasquirt you can choose assuming you want megasquirt to control ignition and you aren't going with a stand alone ignition control mechanism. Megasquirt is a DIY kind of thing. If you aren't willing to DIY then it would be better to go with one of the bigger brand names as more run of the mill shops are familiar with installing those systems (by installing I mean ordering the kit and the wiring harness and plugging them in). With that said, it is completely possible. Dexter and I both have 2jz NA-T's running off megasquirt, I think he is running off of MS1, I have MS2. Here is a really crummy video I made trying to go over it. The engine is a 7mgte, but I am using the exact same setup on the 2jz. I don't think I actually changed anything on the harness at all from that motor. Frist things first. If you are going to attempt this you need some wiring bits. Parts that are close to the engine, generally shouldn't be soldered according to many. I have some connections soldered that have been holding fine, but alas. That means investing in some tools to get you really proper reliable connections. The best would be to get like a weatherpack kit and wire everything fresh with new pins and complete lengths of wire. That is pricey, so you can go with generic crimps. Your connections should be solid so that they have little to no resistance and that you feel comfortable pulling on as if it was one length of wire. If you can pull your connection apart, either find a way that makes the connection more reliable (ratcheting crimper) or use another method (non insulated crimps with a long leverage crimper and heat shrink over the connection). Once you can reliably make connections (I cannot stress this enough, one bad connection and you might be chasing shadows or worse fry your ecu), then look at the wiring diagram and sort it by what you actually have and what you plan to run. A simple word document like in the video is fine. Pin 1 = X color = X function = connects to x color on stock harness etc etc Once you have your pinout go out and buy quality automotive wire of various colors, most likely 18-14 gauge, with maybe a couple in the 12-10 gauge for heavier power usage items (full copper stranded, not coated aluminum), wires that you plan on running near hot sources you should really consider getting SXL or GXL I believe. These wires have a higher heat insulation. Or plan ahead and route your harness away from hot sources or pickup heat proof shielding for them. Now you have your map, your connection method that you fully trust, and your supplies. It is all about going down your list and making each connection. There are two schools of thought. Some say to make each wire exactly the length you want. Other say to leave a loop in case you need to pull the harness to move it out of the way of something down the road. Your choice, I did the loop, plus lots of disconnect points, makes pulling the engine a lot easier. Once you get everything wired you want to find a base map and input all the base settings. Once you think you are close, double check all the wires or have someone else check them before you think of hooking up the power. Remember one wrong connection you can short something. From then on it is a matter of enabling test mode and testing all your connections to make sure they are functioning correctly. Once you have determined everything is working (fuel pump, injectors, spark outputs) then you can begin to crank and time the motor with the fuel pump disabled. Adjust the timing offset to match what is on the car. Once you have established you have proper timing, good fuel pressure, and oil pressure then start the motor. At that point you are in the realm of working out the base settings and tune.

Ran into this myself. Anyone find one that works pretty easily? It seems it is a hit or miss with parts store guys.

Thank you for the feedback! 440cc* injectors, I am not sure if that changes the math. I wish I had my laptop with me so I can adjust things real time. Could I bother you for how you arrived at 4.8ms? Is that just a bit of an arbitrary decision compared to halfing it? The hp and tq number seems to be quite low compared to even modest estimations. Would it be worthwhile to overestimate in the generator then have auto tune pull fuel? My friend with the older less efficient, slightly smaller model (56 vs 57mm) turbo on his single cam 2.7L at 10lbs of boost is making an estimated 320hp to the wheels on virtual dyno. My slightly bigger more efficient turbo on my twin cam, 3L is making 13-15lbs at the moment, so I estimate about 350hp with similar torque. Currently my tune is set to 3.8ms with the VE tables doubled from previous. I will change it tonight to 4.8ms req fuel, and generate a new VE table with an estimate of hp and tq. Then richen it up in boost (above 100kPa) by adding 20% via the scalar Spark table I will pull 3 degrees, so retard timing by lowering the numerical value under boost from (19 down to 16 for example), under 100kPa. Threshold was at 20 on one of my accel graphs I wonder if it got bumped while I was playing with multiple files, but I will verify.

Just to make sure I am delivering values. I didn't realize I had to buy a megalog viewer thing to view the logs, I'll have to look into it a bit more, but I can at least see the beginning of my logs. Idle is about 1200-1300rpm, I need a stronger spring to close it a bit more, but that is what it reliably returns to. AFR is 13.6 at this value. My previous AE curve found from a restore point: MS added 1 5 10 11.5 TPS DOT 20 400 800 1600 With it running that AE curve, the car was running rich down to 10.X on tip in with an aggressive throttle stab. On a slow roll in the car would lean out to about 15-16AFR. That would mean I should probably up the first value and lower the second value no? That would flatten my curve a bit, probably indicating that as is I probably have too much fuel in my tune. That post above makes a lot of sense really. So it might indeed be worth while to turn the required fuel down and up the VE since my values are from 16-90 essentially. What would be a good starting point, halfing like stated? With my settings it is saying a required fuel of 7.6 if I reduced it to say 3.8, would I then double the VE table values? On the upper end it seems like a generated VE table has double the values and an actually decent value of 75-204, would it be worth while tuning off of that? Right now I have done exactly as it says, lowering the req fuel and scaling the VE table and saved that. I will have to play with the AE curve as well with the new info. I am a bit lost on figuring out the timing curve, I think I will have to leave that alone until I get the fuel more sorted or in the hands of someone who knows a bit better.

Really didn't see that one coming, but I would like to keep my options open for some small aluminum work.