seattlejester

Kudos!

Just an FYI Ms2 also has outputs for IAC, fuel pump, and a fan circuit is easily installed. Full sequential timing and spark won't really net you any gain especially if you swap out injectors to the common 440cc which will have a different spray pattern. It will leave you room to grow into other motors and such, so if you have the money, not a bad buy at all. Just an FYI.

I made my own using the cheaper 10/12 fuse box and associated relays and that really didn't last. I found leash electronics makes pretty nice fuse/relay boxes. Haven't had any trouble with mine and it's running my megasquirt, fuel pump, coils and such.

Yea it is a bit of a toss up. The good part of this kit is if something goes wrong. If an axle breaks then not a big deal, just get a replacement and send it in to have it shortened. Where as with the stock setup you would have to pull the stub axle which in and of itself is quite an ordeal. The benefit of staying stock is that the theory is once you upgrade to billet stub axles you essentially don't have to worry about it, but when you need to replace bearings it still is going to be a pain, where as with the TTT kit you could order a new hub with bearings already pressed in. Another downfall/benefit that just occurred is that this will push you towards a 5 lug setup. You could stay 4 lug with early S13 hubs and brakes, but you could just as easily swap to 5 lugs up front. For me it was a price point. I think I am about $1000 in the rear end, I'll have a VLSD, rebuilt 27 spline stubs with bearings, CV axles. Nowhere near bullet proof, but it kind of stops there. If I went with the TTT kit, I would have $2800 just in the mounting hardware, still need to find an LSD, axles, brakes, hubs, and I probably wouldn't want those parts used, so they would need to be rebuilt or refurbished or new, that still leaves welding for the strut tower tops etc etc.

You could do what you suggest, and you could save about $1000 from a quick glance at their price list, but the parts you wouldn't be replacing could stand to be replaced. The spring style mustache bas been reported to cracking and failing with time and abuse. The front diff mount on the z cars are a pretty poor style and that should definitely be replaced. The hangers are pretty sturdy, but I can't help but imagine they would flex on launch or cornering. Factor those in and the price gap diminishes, then factor in the fact that finding the LSD for an open differential S13 will probably mean you have to pay full retail as most people swap to a differential from another S chassis car, and the savings kind of disappear.

I hate myself. I bought a full gasket set and I didn't use it since I was told the engine was leak free and sitting on a stand it didn't drip any oil. In retrospect that makes sense as long as all the oil is in the pan, it won't leak. I'm finding a lot of oil underneath the car with it jacked up. Currently I probably have a bit more oil then the pan can hold since I'm running a remote oil filter relocator which said to put in oil until it registered on the dip stick while running to compensate for the extra capacity needed to fill the lines with oil. Oil pan is definitely wet, oil dripping from the bolts and the plug. I wiped all of it and found the plug still wet so it is coming from somewhere above, plug is tight. Found the oil pan bolts on the loose side, tightened them all up. Found oil dripping from the flywheel cover on the transmission, pulled that off and see a mist on the fly wheel. So RMS or further up. Found a trail on the driver side, goes to a block off plate that I think is just a cover, like the portion of the block it blocks off actually doesn't have a hole in it. I think I'll take it off and take a look. Unfortunately it is completely unaccessible from above because of the very tight fitting intake manifold. I can't find it and it is bothering me. And I jammed the engine so close to the firewall that I can't check the two covers on the back of the head. Going to have to do a lot of dabbing and drying, maybe a UV kit to trace the source. I absolutely hate tracing oil leaks... In other good/bad news, found that the engine was only being held in on one side. The nut on the mount sitting in the cross member on the driver side was gone along with the washers. The passenger side was very loose. Might explain the vibrating on down hill/decel. Put on new washers and nuts along with locktite. I think the factory setup used two nuts? I don't quite recall. Going to have to go to a specialty fastener seller to find some locknuts in m10x1.25 thread pitch. Can't remember if I ever pulled them when I did the 7m swap. They were new mounts when I put the L28 in, and it had a new nut on the side that still had the nut. If I had the room I think this would be the point where I pull the motor and replace all the fasteners and locktite the poop out of everything. For now I'll just have to do what I can. If I can nip this leak in the bud, then I might have a few things planned for this iteration of the motor.

I think the type 1 does look nicer, the reason I went with the xenon one is it is poly, it bends. Given how low our cars are even at stock height and how monstrous speed bumps and such have gotten having it flex instead of crack is real nice. I've seen a guy pull up to a parking spot and just run straight into the curb and just back away with his poly lip. On the flip side my friend hit a speed bump a little too hard and his fiberglass bumper spidered, it still is breaking off chunks every now and then.

That's a bummer. Don't think my daily could have pulled you very far even if I could have gotten up there. AAA is pretty fantastic, pretty cheap investment especially if you have a project car. Cheapest place for a xenon front air dam is 4x4 plus or something of that nature, they are a xenon dealer and you can have it shipped to the store and pick it up for I think like 170 vs 200 or so other places want.

That looks like the group order size 17x9 front 17x9.5 rear Tire size would be more of a toss up, I would say 225 up front, maybe 235 out back.

You are probably going to need to flip the hump on the 280z. Reference point will be where it feels comfortable. For maximum height you are going to want to mount the seat further back, depending on where the cage goes the main hoop will be the limiting factor as the seat will most likely hit the hoop. If you are worried about the width, plus you are a bigger guy, plus a cage means no more street use, I would put the side impact bars further out so it occupies where the door was and gut the door. You can cut the seat mounts out, but you really should have a welded in bracket system of some sort, Even with backing plates the floor is 20 gauge, I think it would tear rather easily. During this time figure out the belt mounting points. You may be able to use the inboard factory bolt hole, but the main hoop is going to make the outboard hole difficult to access. If you are indeed going 5 or 6 point, the mounting points are going to be under the seat I think behind the centerline of your body (find reference photos/instructions) for them to be effective. Going back to do this work is a real pain in the butt. Find out where/what you will be racing and find their requirements for mounting the seats/belts/cage. If you need more time, throw in some kitty litter in a big pan and throw a car cover over it while you are researching and go replace the kitty litter as needed.

Msq available? Or even screen shot of the settings? If you make a new post with all your settings and the msq or screen shots it may be helpful to others who can chime in. If it is similar to my problem then it is a configuration error with too many shared inputs. A quick look at the settings to make sure there is no overlap may help.

GTX-2 kit findings: The control arm to front cross member rod end with the spacers is roughly 50mm Each washer provided is roughly 2.5mm In a stock layout, the closest will be with 5 of the washers rearward of the LCA The bolts supplied have to have the allen heads pointing away, i.e. sway bar allen head has to point towards the front of the car, the tension arm allen head has to point towards the bottom of the car. Upon comparison to the stock setup, the second sway bar hole from outboard is comparable to stock Upon comparison to the stock setup, the first tension arm hole from outboard is comparable to stock, however you cannot use this hole as the tension arm nut will bind on the bracket at droop preventing installation. Installing both bolts in the second hole will prevent one from engaging the allen head on the sway bar, thus it must be oriented with the allen head towards the front of the car as previously mentioned. The tension arm to control arm end has ~23 threads The tension arm to chassis rod end has ~20 threads The tension arm bracket must be installed prior to installing the tension arm The tension arm bracket must be clocked to allow the bolt to slide in around the cup, or the cup will need to be bent/trimmed to accommodate The tension arm allen head is 1/2 inch Most of the other hardware is 15/16 inch The sway bar end link has 14mm threads and I think a 6mm allen head.

Sounds like you need a place the deals with rotors. I would suggest an off road shop. They tend to have much bigger machinery on hand and redrill rotors all the time. I think synergy manufacturing does such work, at least based on videos, not sure if it is an actual service.

The serious belts are under the competition header. https://www.schrothracing.com/competition This site might be easier to navigate and to visualize all the differences on one page. http://soloracer.com/schroth.html I have two sets of the Rallye 3 in my daily, and I have two sets of the Profi II ASM waiting to go in my datsun. The datsun has 5 point crow harnesses at the moment. In the daily I retained the stock belts so I only throw the harnesses on when I decide I'm going to be silly. In the datsun I never engage the 5th point of the crow harness, really uncomfortable and I don't have it correctly mounted (5th point should be anchored behind the waste line) so it doesn't do much. I usually roll around with the lap belt, I have run the 4 point during an autocross and the retention is real nice.

Front suspension is off. Had to run off for some anti seize for the coilovers. Those should be going in this weekend on both sides. I measured the ES bushing for the FLCA to be 62mm. The TTT arm rod end was about 50mm with the hole sizer. The included 6 washers were about 2.5mm each. So with 4 shims there was enough gap that an audible thunk was apparent. 5 shims required some very precise chiseling to get the shim into position. Honestly wish they would have included one or two thinner shims. The arms look really good, just wish there was some instruction. It is pretty self explanatory, but some instructions off the bat would have been nice for locating which pin to start with for the sway bar and which one to start with for the tension arm. The passenger side tie rod boot tore a perfect circle. Replaced it with an energy suspension cap. Highly suggest purchasing a set if you replace your outer tie rod with the one piece setup, the boots aren't replaceable so having the replacement boots to just slip over after cutting out the old boot is a nice piece of mind. I've got both of mine using the ES caps now so hopefully no more problems there. The G-machine tension arm ball/socket setup really is good. I remember when I took my original rubber tension arm off, the moment I loosened the bolts on the LCA it popped up violently even with deteriorated bushings. I did the same this time around and found no spring tension, just a nice pivoting motion. Unfortunately found that the ball had cracked in several places. I fear the plastic they use is not quality enough for the task at hand. My car had less then 1200 miles on it since they were installed and I think the ball could be pried apart into 5 pieces now. I think it is a case of good idea, executed poorly. Maybe if someone remakes it in a much harder delrin or something it would be nice, but I'm happy I'm going with a rod end now.

Hmm, I would be worried about DMSO, we use it for cell permeability, it has a tendency to permeate membranes, great for elongating viability of frozen tissue/cell stock, but quite bad if as you say it is contaminated as it will bring the contaminant into your body. DMSO has a really interesting history, it used to be recommended as a cure-all type of thing and available at all drug/grocery stores pedaled by "health guru's" etc. It backpedaled really fast due to some very serious health concerns.

Simple question of what caused it to die. Car needs a few things to run, fuel, spark, air, compression. You are getting air, some spark, some gas, and compression if the car is running for bits. That leaves two remaining. Spark and gas. Since the car is running you are getting both of those for at least a little while. Gas is pretty simple to check, pull off the return line and see if the fuel is coming back strong. Unfortunately this can only be done with the car on as it is a mechanical pump on the 240z, I suspect as the others that you are running out of fuel pressure. A small electric pump may help to push fuel up to a tired mechanical pump, but it will not be much help if you have a bunch of junk in the filters clogging fuel flow. You could use starting fluid when it stalls to see if it is the fuel. If the car starts and runs on starting fluid then spark is fine and it is more or less a fuel delivery problem. Alternatively there is spark, if the coil cannot build up enough charge, the rotor is burnt, the spark plugs are fouled etc, it could be loosing charge. Quite a few ways to check, my favorite being an inline spark tester. Even if you have all the other perfect things, a discharging coil will slowly stall the car out. Oil pressure is finicky. It could be a sender or something more worrisome like a pump that is worn down and not pushing any oil. The pumps on the L-series are pretty well known for being hardy, so I don't think it is the latter. Still making sure you are getting oil pressure would be a good idea, a mechanical gauge could be threaded in to check and see how accurate the sender is sending. Making sure you have oil is also a good idea, no oil pressure = no oil circulation = seized engine = engine stalling and not starting up again, so it could be related, but hopefully not.

Zeroyon translates to 0-4 which is usually an abbreviation from 0-400 which is short for 400m aka a quarter mile. At least that is what it means when you talk to most people about zero-yon cars in japan basically translates to drag cars. But it might be a postal code for them for all I know. Regarding the looping, that is frowned upon for the reasons listed. There are several references as to why, and I agree with new zed that if you find the references and rationalize you never will have to wonder who is ace venturaing. Make sure when you cap that you use a solid caping mechanism, not a rubber hose cap as those will blow out. The red hose in your first picture and the black hose that is running along the engine in your second picture are the ones that get blocked. However if you are only planning on bypassing because you cannot find an affordable heater core and if in fact you wanted a heater core I believe you can pull the ones from a kia something or other. It pretty much is a bolt in swap. A heater is nice to have to defog/warmup/bleed off excess heat. Regarding the connection, that doesn't look like a block heater, more like a knock sensor? I don't recall my zx engine having it though so I'm not sure.

Glad I retained some of my chemistry, I was thinking Methyl Ethyl Ketone before clicking. It is a pretty powerful solvent. Organic compound, C4H8O. It does contain a ketone which can react to certain compounds and loose the double bond, potentially why it makes such a good solvent. Chemically it is flammable so keep away from open flames and be careful scraping an item covered in the stuff with a steel or spark inducing brush. It is also a minor irritant so make sure to wear chemically resistant gloves and make sure to be in an open space, a respirator may be overkill, but wouldn't hurt. It is present in a lot of everyday items, so it shouldn't be as harmful, but granted it is organic and reactive so it can turn into something more harmful etc so take modest precaution. In chemistry like dissolves like. So given that it is organic it will readily dissolve things of organic nature like hydrocarbon residues and such found on parts like carburetors. Keep it away from plastics as it will also dissolve certain plastics and can even fuse them. Keep it in a clean metal or glass container with a tight lid as it is also volatile and can escape and can potentially cause a hazardous situation with sparks or flames.

I think on the schroth page it said it was one of the seats not recommended. That and the fact I saw a screen there, which apparently isn't a problem lol. Prepost edit: The link you got the picture from http://www.s2ki.com/s2000/topic/783842-harness-with-our-stock-seats/ Seems they don't like it either, although they don't list a reason. Just an FYI a 5 point is really uncomfortable. If the crotch strap comes into play for any reason (hard breaking) it can get real uncomfortable. A 6 point is better as it more or less holds your inseam, but at that point you really are strapped in, very very little mobility. I'm replacing my 5 point with a 4 point schroth antisub setup. Might be worth looking into.

Hmm, something to look out for, how many miles in the 7 years? Along the same lines, there were a couple members posting about DC2 coilovers welded onto our cars, I think around the same time if not a little before or after. They also reported similar results, shock shafts bending, blowing shocks etc. I saw a recent conversation between them on another forum, they both agreed it is not the way to go at all. McKinney has said time and time again, that their shocks are not from the S13, they are made for their application. Would be interesting to see if they have had any reports.

Exposed: If the ECU pinouts are confusing you are going to have real trouble building your own harness. It is a matter of getting either a blank ECU plug or adding a mid point connector partway down the harness. Then decoding the pinout, separating the harness, measuring the distance to the correct locations, crimping on new plugs, tidying up the harness, wrapping it and mounting it. Spend some time looking at the pin out and at the wires, once you can read the color coding separate the wires that you will be using vs the ones you will not and then bundle them by group. Add intermediary termination and run new wiring from the intermediary to the end location. It is time consuming, but in the end there is a finite number of wires and once you work your way thorough them with good quality tools and crimps and head shrink you will be fine. If you have to chase down shorts in your own wiring it will be a never ending game of cat and mouse so work on identifying and making bullet proof connections first. Geno: I'm curious what features the infinity has that can't be found in megasquirt. I only took a quick glance, but I didn't see anything that seemed out of the ordinary. If one is comparing apples to apples, the more advanced megasquirt units have the same if not more features (anti-lag etc), once you start dropping to the cheaper basic setups like the MS2 then some differences really appear, but at that point you are comparing a $200-400 part to a $1400 part which isn't really a comparison. Would be interesting what features are available at the higher price points. Ron: If you want to run a 2jz and you get the factory harness and ECU along with it you need to supply power, an ignition signal, and obviously a couple grounds. I think you can find a video on youtube of how simple it is to get a standard wiring harness to work in a swapped car. A running 2jz engine will come with... Oil pressure sensor Coolant temp sensor Knock sensor Any decent ECU will be able to accommodate a calibration curve to make use of those sensors Things that will need to be addressed will be... Map sensor (that price you listed is really high) Fuel pressure sensor (not sure why you would need this, a gauge would do the same job and cost substantially less, the only time I can see this helping is if you are running out of fuel and the pressure is dipping then the computer can control the injector timing to open it longer, but any smart ECU would do the same as it tries to target the AFR target) IAT Boost control solenoid Flex fuel (not really needed unless you plan on mixing your fuel, most ECU's can store multiple maps) Cam/Crank angle sensor (if you run an NA 2jz it will be running a distributor which is going to limit your timing control, this means you need to change it out to COPS and get a way to monitor the angle of the crank and or the cam) Some of the things you are looking for hints at big boost, not sure the automatic is going to happy for that long when you hit it with those kinds of numbers.

Decided to try filming a bit on top of working on the car. Definitely gained a new found appreciation, really hard to remember the right words and remember to keep the items clear and in view of the work area. Also it takes a lot longer to film as you work. Spent about 2 hours, only managed to remove the hub and the strut housing from one side. Still nice to work on the car again, our cars really are simple compared to modern cars. The one tool that made it really nice to work on the car was a ball joint separator for the tie rod. I forgot to get mine out, but once I got there it was real easy. I have several impact guns, but just working with ratchets was nice. Finally got around to really looking at the TTT GTX2 arms. I went to my specialty hardware supplier, but it seems like they closed down. I'd like to replace the threaded bolt for the tension arm with a shouldered bolt, but I may have to install it if I don't find time to replace it before I get there. The bummer was that I realized all the nuts and bolts are really large SAE. I've pretty much maintained a full metric tool kit, so this meant having to go out and buy a set of sockets and wrenches in SAE, the sizes are also large and not a typical size so that meant I couldn't just grab the 8$ wrench set or a single socket or two. Total ended up at $68. Going to try and get more work done. I really think I can get the front end finished up in another couple hours. Then I can look at wherever the oil leak is coming from, maybe remount my oil relocator and button up some wiring before dropping it down and flipping it around.

Went to the store in question. Forgot my ruler, but had a piece of string and measured all the seats they had available. My most important measurement was the shoulder bolster as that tends to hit the glass if it is too wide. There really wasn't any seat that was compatible to the R100's shoulder bolster wise. I sat in it, felt pretty decent, I plan on getting some lumbar pads just for comfort. There were other seats, but they really got up in price. Some recaro's seemed to fit, but the price tag was around 900+ for the ones that may have worked. Buckets are basically out of the question other then the special XL listed buckets which provide a bulge for the hip, but they still squish down so I imagine the legs would be compressed which is not comfortable (drove in ST buckets for 4 hours, nuts were screaming). I would say a look at RSX seats with custom mounts or floor mounts, my bigger friends seems to really like the bolster and it is a comfortable seat, in the same line s2000 seats are similar but preclude the option to run a harness if that is a factor.

Eastside, I work near downtown though. Thanks for the kind words. Dropped off parts at powder coaters, was hit with a bit of sticker shock of $270 for my bin of parts. Turns out they blast everything that comes in the door unless it is squeaky clean, so factoring that into it, plus the masking after blasting, it really isn't too bad now that I think about it. Really hard to justify though when you have it blasted pretty clean and can just throw a coat of paint on it for the cost of a can. Still a lot of these parts are going underneath the car and will be difficult to access, nice to know they will be coated real well. Note to self and others, if you don't plan on working with the part in question before powder coating, do not get it blasted, a good coater will most likely have a blasting setup in house. Most parts will just be whatever black they plan on running, control arms will be gold. Guy was pretty good at his job, asked which parts were sealing or machined surfaces that needed to stay powder free and such. They should be ready for pickup next week. Plan to get the front end work started tomorrow. Got additional lighting for underneath the car and cleaned up the work space for really good access and have all the parts needed. Pretty sure I can get everything off, not sure how far I will get into the install though. Hope to get it done and start the rear end tear down, I can then go and drop off the drive shaft to get lengthened and hopefully pick up all the parts by next weekend to finish that up.