hoov100

which building!!

Personally, I would have the toe-link machined out of steel and welded on, rather then two tabs, the welds look like a beginner welder, being conservative. Thats just my opinion though, I personally wouldn't run that without re-welding it.

I'm jealous, running the z32 rear brake system would solve all of my problems with the rest of my brake setup.

Will their be emotional support groups and mental health advisers available on call while dealing with this "change"? (thats all Braap needs at 2am , is me calling him and having a nervous break down over the phone, because hybridz is down.)

Found some specific oil pump info on e vs. dett oil pumps including dimensions! http://74.125.155.132/search?q=cache:MFm2EhK28DMJ:www.epracing.net/images/Doc/NISSAN%2520Z31%2520%26%2520Z32%2520OIL%2520PUMP%2520DIFFERENCES.ppt+z32+oil+pump+gear&cd=2&hl=en&ct=clnk&gl=us And you can download the powerpoint WITH PICS! here. http://www.epracing.net/images/Doc/NISSAN%20Z31%20&%20Z32%20OIL%20PUMP%20DIFFERENCES.ppt

How are Braap and Rtz still admins?

which two holes? maybe you can drill and tap the block for them and use studs? PICS MAN! It's killing me!

factory z32 setup.

If you have fuel to the FPR and no fuel after, lets use some common sense here and see if the FPR isnt stuck closed..

Since you already have a vg30 powered s30, why not make a vg33ett powered porsche?

Take one of the nuts and bolts to the hardware store and ask them for grade 8 or better.

After doing some careful research and an hour or so of staring at my rear end, I'm most likely going to do a short nose conversion and get a helical tomei LSD, then I'm going to convert to z31 stub axles, which hopefully will give me enough offset to run regular converted CV axles, instead of ordering custom ones.

If your getting fuel to the fuel rails, then most likely your ECU isn't getting power.

Same here.

I'm just not seeing where things are different, maybe I'm stubborn or something, but I'm just not seeing it, I've heard about their being two extra holes in the dett's oil pump, if thats the case you could most likely just have them welded close or plugged. I'm going to take a look at my z32's oil pump and compare it to a vg30 pump I have on the shelf.

check out the original FATF, no rice here.. http://www.veoh.com/search/videos/q/fast%20and%20the%20furious/sort/run%20length#watch%3Dv19462809RyNSwBc6

I'm going on a hunch here and think the vg30d crank and oil pump will bolt on, but you have to use the 33's lower crank sprocket, or switch them all out with the vg30d's timing sprockets. If anyone has an oil pump from a vg30d laying around, could you pull it apart and get us the dimensions?

Heres a thread with some usefull pics. http://images.google.com/imgres?imgurl=http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v652/rhdrift12345/DSC00395.jpg&imgrefurl=http://www.nissanoffroad.net/messageboard/index.php%3Ftopic%3D6539.msg81637&usg=__nv3g0R3dELAzNL7G9IiULPjA17E=&h=600&w=800&sz=89&hl=en&start=11&sig2=jPVMldOlhu4RDoYDJnpTyQ&um=1&itbs=1&tbnid=z-44yoRj6vCYtM:&tbnh=107&tbnw=143&prev=/images%3Fq%3Dvg33%2Boil%2Bpump%26hl%3Den%26safe%3Doff%26um%3D1&ei=YN5vS_ClC5-ktgOsoeCxDQ Another one I found. http://nissannut.com/maintenance/vg33e_upgrade/ According to the last link: Oil pump drive is 34 mm on VG30 and 41mm on VG33 [/b] I left performance aspects out of this for the sole purpose of spurring discussion. If you're considering a 3.3 please read the following before you ask questions' date=' you may find your answer! [b']The official unofficial VG33E information. This was created to solve the problem of little information and many myths regarding the SOHC VG33E. As many are still unaware of all the differences this motor has compared to other variations in the VG engine line up, this thread and following post will build on the growing knowledge of understanding differences and modifying the VG33E. The following is to my current knowledge, over time I hope the forum members and moderators can both add to, and help keep this in order while simple to read. To start lets cover the models and years this engine was avaliable in. In some vehicles the 3.3L was an option. In the USDM vehicles: '96-'00 Nissan Pathfinder '97-'00 infinity QX4 '99-'04 Nissan Frontier, '01-'04 supercharged avaliable '99-'02 Nissan Quest & Mercury villager '00-'04 Nissan Xterra, '01-'04 supercharged avaliable Visually the VG33E besides a few components is idential to a VG30E. There are mostly minor location differences of components, routing of lines, and electronic components that visually set the VG33E apart, though these minor differences can be worked around by using parts from other VG's. Basic information, intake manifold down to the heads: Getting a little more in depth lets talk about the intake and fuel related pieces, the VG33E uses the upper intake manifold found on earlier pathfinders and quest that used the VG30E. The lower intake manifold is similar to the VG30E's as well being able to use most of the 3.0's upper intake manifolds, the coolant neck found on the 3.3's lower intake houses two sensors though it is similar to some of the 3.0's does not function as a filling location like some 3.0 designs, but it shares the same flange design and bolt pattern so it is able to use many variations. The fuel system is similar to the later +'87 3.0's using side feed injectors, though the seals are of larger diameter and different design. The locations to bolt the fuel injectors down is much lower on the 3.3's lower intake manifold, other differences are the 3.3's intake manifold lacks a sensor and coolant tube on the rear passenger side some of the 3.0's used, the rear coolant tube has different routing than most 3.0's, again the flange and bolt pattern is similar to the 3.0's so swapping tubes is simple. Port diameters (~36mm) are similar as well as head to manifold coolant passages, and will line up with any VG30 head casting. The heads specific to the 3.3 are known by casting reference "OWO". Visually they are very similar to the 3.0's head using 13 head bolts, the main difference being the 10mm exhaust studs. The exhaust studs can easily be rearranged to suit your header choice using a TORX socket. Internally they share parts with the 3.0 specifically the rockers, lifters, lifter guide, valve and valve spring locks, retainers, valve stem diameter, height, and ultimately - layout. The 3.3's valves can be identified by their casting "EF-3" I have yet to find a source that list valve seat angles. Both the intake and exhaust ports have a much smoother casting than the 3.0's V52, 21V, and 85E heads. Head bolt locations, water passages, and oil galleys are similar though there are slight differences in the water passages they will not interfere with swapping 3.3/3.0 heads to ether block though I would advise against 85E or 21V heads onto a 3.3 block due to the water passage being close to the combustion chamber more so than the V52. A major difference is in the camshaft found in the 3.3, the 240/244 .354"/.354" cam is good for low end grunt but not that great for high RPM power. The 3.3's camshaft is commonly swapped out for 3.0's camshafts for better high RPM performance, aftermarket 3.0 cams will also work. Another difference that is very important to note is the camshaft sprockets, the 3.3's sprockets use a round tooth style compared to the 3.0's more squared tooth style, the matching crank gear must be used. Basic information, bottom end and rotating assembly: Lets start with the engine block. Again the 3.3's block can be identified by an "OWO" casting on the front driver side. Many of the locations to bolt up engine brackets, and accessory brackets are predrilled and tapped making the use of other 3.0 pieces an easy affair. The block to bell housing pattern is also the same as 3.0's making many transmissions available. What makes the 3.3 a 3.3 is the bore of 91.5mm, the stroke length is shared with the 3.0 at 83mm. The pistons are cast like other VG's having a compression ratio of 9:1 they also have the OWO imprint along with valve reliefs and a slight bowl to the center. The connecting rods, again stamped with "OWO" are similar to a 3.0's the difference being the notches at the bottom. The crankshaft is cast sharing the same main and connecting rod journal sizing system as the 3.0's, it also shares the six bolt flywheel pattern found on 3.0's. The major difference between the 3.3's and 3.0's crankshaft is the snout, the 3.3's has a larger diameter and must be used with the matching 3.3 oil pump and pulley. The 3.3's oil pump also is the mounting location for the oil filter and oil pressure sensor, the pumps pickup is also closer to the center line and has a taller mounting location than 3.0's pick up location this may require modifying the oil pan per-application. A common discussion is drilling the block for an oil feed location when adding a turbo, the motor I picked up from a '96 Pathfinder did not require any drilling as it only has a plug. Accessories: The 3.3's crankshaft pulley is delicate, and prone to chipping/cracking use caution when removing and handling. The 3.3's pulley is special, it has a 32mm center bore, and has variations in belt style and routing per-model. The easiest way to over come this issue is to get the associated brackets and accessories, though this may interfere with simple intake and intercooler pipe routing on those who choose to use turbochargers. There is also the option to swap in a 3.0 crank and use the 3.0 pulley and accessories this also involves using the 3.0 oil pump and using the Quest style 3.0's oil pump that side mounts the oil filter like the 3.3's, or simply using the 3.0's oil filter stud from other variations to relocate the filter. That's the most of my knowledge concerning this topic, personally I'm still unfamiliar with mix matching brackets and pulleys, as I'm still in process of locating the pieces. There is much more information and examples yet to be shared, the basic information posted is a start in the right direction to document the knowledge in an effort to centralize it. If you would like to add information your self please keep it organized and easy to read. If you're planning to swap a VG33E in place of a VG30E the swap is pretty straight forward as long as you keep an eye on the subtle differences and an open mind to solve simple problems. There are many others out there that know much more about this engine than myself, I am looking forward to any additional information, corrections, or pictures.[/b] I will be back to edit this I'm sure! :nanan?re

Yeah, I'm buying a complete running long block with 20k miles from a 2001 xterra, but finding an aftermarket flywheel for a standard vg30e is hard, If the crank from a vg30de is the same as the TT crank, I might as well do it, as I have a good vg30de shortblock sitting in my parts car.

If the crank has any scoring or needs truing, wouldn't you need to have the crank turned?

Thanks man!

yeah, then I have to have the crank machined, then I would have to to get new bearings.etc trying to get the motor in as cheap as possible as fast as possible, doing the work myself.

If he gets in a roll over or bad enough wreck with that roll bar, he's going to need more then padding to protect him, your over exaggerating the probabilities of what might happen in a wreck, yes the body stretches, yes the belts stretch, yes the seat mounts flex, nit the way you are making it sound, is like the car is specifically trying to kill him, that roll bar is most likely going to kill him in any serious wreck regardless. I have wrecked enough cars to know that a real roll bar positioned correctly is not going to be anywhere near your head in a wreck, unless the chassis itself starts collapsing.

check this bad boy out.. http://page10.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/m69248732