hoov100

depending on what is killing you in 24 hours, its most likelly gonna hurt like hell when it does, i dont know about you, but i dont wanna die a slow and painfull death.

theres also this method, i have no idea who makes/made them, but they use modern power window motors hooked up to a set of gears, which connect to the original regulators, they are surprisingly quick and havent had a single problem yet.

trade all of my belongings for a hotel room, 1911a1 .45, one hallow point bullet, a notepad and a pen, or put calcium phosphate cyanide in my cereal in the morning.

what airfield was that shot at?

I'm sorry man, but that goes more along the lines of inexperienced engine building, to have a new cam wipe out, after propery breaking it in, i have seen it, but he had an oil pump failure at 7500 RPM. those three situations where more bad experiences than somebody going and buying a bunch of different parts from different people which dont work together. It all boil's down to how experienced/ignorant the person building the motor/car is. Do you kinda see where I'm coming from here? maybe I'm just lucky i havent blown an engine yet.

negative, contact zgeezer he should have one and is only down the road from me.

be sure to stop by my house and take a look through my spare parts and see if you want anything.

hey, sign into your yahoo, so we can chat and not cutter up the thread.

in all honesty. If your swapping a v8 into your z with no mechanical experience and don't research it, your just plain ignorant or dumb (or adventurous). the v8 swap has been EXTREMELY well documented since the mid 70's and swap kits have been available since then too. I don't really see where you could run into a "costly dead end" with a carb'd v8 swap, especially a sbc. unless once again you just went on a spending spree in the summit catalog. heres the total amount it costs to have a driveline built for my z. custom spec'd engine, built, assembled and running in the car using new parts (minus the block and heads) $3267.74 my trans and converter where new which totaled $415.68 custom scratch built driveshaft was $160 total for the swap on the road driving was $3842.42 thats including every nut and bolt for the swap.

go through the car with a fine tooth comb, do some poking and prodding in it and make your assumption from there. But if its as clean as it looks in the pics, i dont think you should have to do much body work.

the entire car is for being in that nice of shape for the area your in. alright, the l26 has weber down draft carbs and some sort of red coil, motors probably pushing somewhere around 400 at the wheels and it looks like they un hooked you smog equipment. (just kidding about the HP figures.)

To be honest it looks like you went back in time to the 80's and brought it back.

we should go for a cruise when i get back to cali, assuming you have intentions of driving that car on the street again.

i have heated electric mirrors from a c4 vette on mine, they seem ok and work good.

lol, guy at the junkyard probably told him is was stronger, coming from a truck and going into a car. when I work one someones car where parts are required i use scare tactics, to make sure they buy a new part, or buy the best replacement, but when you go on about the pro's and con's of different parts from different manufactures, most people will just wright a blank check to shut you up.

I'll sell you my sbc driveline out of my 240z for $2800, from the radiator hoses to the driveshaft. (including the shifter and speedo cable, front x-member and trans x-member) (see my ad in the F/S section.) and your rear end and suspension will be fine, dont make me post the r200 wheelie picture.

find a trans shop your local drag or circle track scene uses, as those guys usually have the best price and will rebuild correctly. (and holy crap $500 for seals? theres like 4 of them!)

dont forget about a mid sized crow bar, or large hammer, in case you decide to play bumper cars, or someone else decides to play.

meh' ALOT better then most I've heard. Just not my style i guess.

drop the motor back 3 inches from the JTR location and drop it down 2 inches and have 52/48!! if you do aluminum heads, aluminum intake, aluminum water pump, aluminum radiator, aluminum pulleys, electric fan and a 4 speed with an aftermarket clutch and flywheel, you should be at or less then the stock l24/4spd with better weight distribution a lower CG and you get the set it and forget it feature of running a chevy v8. I personally love the way my scarab mounted sbc handles and drives, plus there's only 6 wires to make it run and drive!

dont make me come up there and do it for you, you dont wanna see my mAd migin' skillz.

i should beat you upside the head for even thinking about it. do you realize what would happen in a crash if those rear seat mounts broke? this isnt a question about what you feel is safe enough to drive, this is a question of what actually is safe enough to drive, dont second chance safety with laziness. get it driving and running good and drive it to someones house who would be willing to help you out with fixing it.

have you lost your damn mind? putting someone else life at risk for the sake of less work? I should beat you upside the head for even thinking about that.

sure, take the fun out of a road trip......... also, pop rivets holding the floors on man? come on, thats almost as dangerous if not mroe then using fiberglass.

nice!