hoov100

the general rule of thumb is 3k CFM, but variables like radiator size/condition, water pump, thermostat, air box, would IMHO determine how big of a fan you need.

wow.

or the way most people do it, is pull the driveline and ship the chassis and engine seperate as "parts" then put it back together in the states, make it conform to DOT safety standards and register it as a kit car. then just buy a salvaged s13/14 and use the title and VIN's off that car to say you built it off that platform, simple as that, ive seen it done alot when i lived in cali.

if those arent light up all the way, then what did the older style look like when lit?

the question is what caused the chip.

What i have seen and I would think would make people stop from asking the simple and overly posted questions, is to make it so that you have to have 5 posts to view off topic sections. 10 posts to view the classifieds. and 15 posts to start a new thread and 20 posts to post a thread or make a post in the classifieds. just throwing it out there....

alright, let me get pics of them first.

how much you looking to spend on the flares?

i have a set, ill get pics of them off the car, but heres a pic of them on, i even have the receipt for them if you want that too. [/img]

i would buy one, but i love 1:1 scale the most!

I'll give 15 cigs and a undetectable shank to whoever closes this thread first..

of course your car is going to accelerate faster with an aluminum flywheel and new clutch without the fan, vs the stock flywheel and fan, have you ever weighed a stock L-series flywheel against the fidanza????? and removing the fan you gain like a whopping .6WHP your ass dyno isnt worth the crap that comes out of it! ontop of EVERYTHING else its a STOCK 280ZX! its gonna be slow regardless of how much useless crap you throw on it! /rant/vent (why hasnt this thread been sent to the shed yet?)

i use the generic kevlar boot covers when my wires started melting, havent had a problem since!

contact "racer986jec" on ebay or racer98 on this site and he should be able to hook you up.

got a pic for reference?

heres a crappy pic of me and a friends auto-x car's power steering setup its on the right side of the block right above the oil filter.

He is, also that car is actually has some nice quality work into it, although $25k is a LONG shot.

If you have firefox i would recommend turning the spell check on, its saved me a couple of times, then just watch your punctuation and you shouldnt have any problems unless you start asking how to convert your l28 to turbo.

you know your taillights, turn signals and grill are completely different right? also: the BRE air dam is probably as close to the 70's as you can get.

woops:redface: thought you where saying no to being able to put a VLSD center in a longnose housing.

this thread says everything bolts up, i have heard of people using them, but havent seen a picture of one mounted inside a longnose housing., also only the TT z32's have the r230, the NA's have the shortnose r200. http://www.zclub.org.nz/viewtopic.php?p=4405&sid=dd03df1b7e4defba979b9158defa98cb

I've got a few (hundred) MRE heaters and i am so setting one off one at the CQ desk early in the morning while they are half asleep.

check your diff mounts, especially the rear ones.

I have heard of people in oz and NZ using the centers and output shafts of the shortnose and shimming it back to factory specs, what is the reason it wont work?

willing to travel to southern cali for a clean and strait roller? http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v353/hoov100/v8%20240z/