Doug71zt

The felpro gasket will hold 10psi no problem, I've got one in my car (with head studs) that has been over 25 psi a number of times (oops) with no troubles. I think that one of the stock turbo pistons isn't liking it though. Leakdown is a little high on #6, probably due to a pinched ring. If you only plan on 10psi, the threaded rod will do you fine. No need to spend the big dollars at that level. If you want a little harder hit, try an inexpensive ball-valve MBC. I am still running a Dawesdevices one, even with my external gate. It is rock-solid and the boost comes on nicely. Eventually, I will go EBC, probably with the next round of updates. It never ends.... Doug

A twin-turbo big-block Mopar I'm working on will use one (big) greddy BOV. It's almost on the road, we'll see how it works. Doug

Make sure that your WG flapper is closed all the way, a little bypass around the turbine would hurt you in the lower gears more than the higher gears where there is more time to spool the turbo. A cheap manual boost controller may help also, as the WG puck will not start to open as soon, helping to build boost pressure quicker. You can even cut and thread the stock actuator and use a coupler nut to make it shorter (if you are still using the stock turbo). This will give you more spring pressure on the WG puck. Doug

I think that most people running coilpacks cut the shaft, as the upper end doesn't really run on any bearing surface when the dizzy is removed. The dizzy keeps the shaft running (relatively) true. I would drop it out and cut it off where it necks down. A 15 minute job for piece of mind. Doug

I've got a P-trim .58 housing kicking around if you decide you need one. V-Band exhaust. Doug

Rick goes by the name skyline240z here. You can PM or email him through the site. http://forums.hybridz.org/private.php?do=newpm&userid=8634 Doug

Ford has 160lb/hr injectors, for alt-fuel bigblocks. I'm using them for a TT Mopar wedge project. They are cheap as they are too big for most applications. $300 for 8 on fleabay. Maybe you could run dual EFI programming, gas/street, alcohol/track with those injectors, but the idle would probably be terrible on gas. Doug

Very nice classic Tim, I likes, I likes a lot. Now all you need is a van rear bumper and a big a$$ hitch. Doug

I'm working on a SS turbo manifold for my car. I couldn't find anything out there. There was a group purchase from South Florida Performance (SFP) I believe, some guys (and girls) here have them. They are a Semi-log style. You may be able to find one for sale. Cartech still lists a log-style manifold for the L-series in cast. A custom manifold will probably run more than that, as there is no demand for them. Doug

The joints can be replaced by normal Ujoints. It takes a competant machine shop about an hour to do it. Press the old ones out, hone the bores to get rid of the staking, machine the inside of the yokes flat so there is an area for the snap rings to sit. I've done it on Nissan tranny driveshafts, they take the same ujoint as the early (replaceable) shafts. I've not done a T5 shaft, so I don't know if the joints are the same size. Any decent driveline shop can match up the dimensions to a ujoint. But - For $100 to build a new shaft - go for the new shaft. Doug

A question about the pump location - does it need to be above or below the reservoir outlet? I may just go this alone, as I already have a 3bar MAP sensor installed, and I may hide the pump, etc in the airdam area, away from the hot bits. Does Razor use a check valve anywhere in his system? What size of nozzle are you using in the RX/GN? Thanks Doug

Hey Scottie - Any new news on the possibility of a Z-kit? Doug

How do you have your new fuel rail and regulator set up? Is the regulator on the supply side of the rail, or on the return side? I had a look at the pictures on you other thread, and I wasn't able to tell. The fuel system should go pump-rail-regulator-return. If you are dead-ending the rail, you are going to have fuelling problems on the Zcar. Just throwing out some ideas here Doug

RunninOnEmpty - In light of what John has said, I am not 100% sure how the brake bias is controlled on those trucks. Like all mods, this one is at your own risk. While not noticing any difference in braking on pavement, I can't say that the brake bias remained the same ABS on to ABS off. On gravel, the difference in braking was jaw-dropping, because with ABS on, the surge brakes on the trailer where doing all the braking, while the ABS unit cycled. This was a purpose-built trailer for use as a mobile workshop/spares container for helicopter maintenance. It weighed about 7500 lbs and had 4 wheel hyd surge brakes. When I first drove the truck on gravel without the trailer, I almost put it off the road because there were no trailer brakes to stop me. Then, the ABS fuse was removed on the advice of a local GM tech(!). It stopped like a normal rig in the mountains then, I noticed no difference on pavement, but I probably only drove without the trailer 5% of the time. To sum it up, if you drive on pavement all the time, I would leave the fuse in, as you won't notice a difference and that is likely what the ABS unit is programmed for. If you drive on gravel, take it out. The braking problems were due to the deceleration speeds of the wheels on gravel, as there is a lot more slippage than on pavement. I notice that the new Range Rovers have dash-selectable ABS and Trac Control software for different road conditions. What a novel idea. Doug

RunninOnEmpty - The ABS fuse is in the master electrical box, driver's side fender. The ABS light will stay on as long as the fuse is out. If you want a real laugh, check out where GM put the really expensive ABS actuator on your truck. Here's a hint - look under the truck, right about where your feet sit... Doug

Same cam as I got from Isky last year. I didn't speak up because it is still in the wrapper, waiting for me to finish the head, so I don't know how it will work. I have great faith though. I think that the cam was the cheapest thing in the head. Cheers Doug

Thanks for the tips guys, just to clarify on the IC, I wasn't preheating the tanks, but the 15 lb chunk of bar and plate core. I guess that it's made to transfer heat, and it does a great job of that. I have been using Castrol Superclean to clean the aluminum that I have been messing with, it works quite well and will etch the aluminum quite quickly. I have a dedicated stainless brush for Alum. and one for stainless also. Good tip on cleaning the filler rods, I didn't think of that. Has anyone used Solarflux type B when welding stainless, to backshield the inside of the pipe? Burns Stainless sells it, I'm just looking for some feedback on it. I had my first downpipe done by an aerospace welding outfit, and there was no salt on the inside of the tube at all. I'm getting some, less than with my old welder, but I'm contemplating making a couple turbo headers and want to make sure that there isn't anything left in the pipe that could come loose and wipe out a turbine wheel. Cheers Doug

My father has a 2002 1/2 ton GM that had the anti-lock sensor problem at 30,000 miles. Confused the heck out of me and the shop for a while. Finally found it driving around watching the wheel speed sensors on a scanner. It would only do it once in a while, but it had NO BRAKES when the ABS screwed up. The wheel speed sensors, installed with one bolt in the front end, had rust under the mounting surface, pushing the sensor up and just out of range of the toothed wheel. Every once in a while, one would miss counting a bunch of teeth and report back to the ABS confuser that the wheel had locked. Instant no brakes with the ABS cycling madly. I had some very scary times in the Rockys with an early production 2500HD chev a couple years ago, had a heavy trailer on gravel mountain logging roads. The ABS wasn't very happy with the amount of slippage on the gravel and left me without much braking until I pulled the big fuse under the hood. My next truck will probably be something around a 1970 GMC, with modern power under the hood. There just isn't anything out there new that I have confidence in. Mike - You should see the underside of my 01 Maxima - here in Ontario, Canada, salt corrosion is horrible. The car has 40,000 miles on it and the corrosion on the underside and suspension makes me cringe, every time I'm under there. Your truck, if it was driven here, would be due for all new brake and gas lines, as well as lower cab corners and box sides over the wheel wells. As for your question, I answer both - they aren't making them any better, and the salt is just making it worse.. Hope you get out of this slump OK. Doug

Hi Jamie - I was hoping you'd post. Do you weld up IC's in your shop, like fab the tanks and weld to the cores? It seemed to me that it took a pile of amps to lay down the bead from the tank (.095ish thick, I think) to the core. The shop that it was done in had an water cooled torch which had a broken line (so no cooling) and it was seriously smoking by the time the tanks were done. If I didn't already have a MIG, I would have got the smaller Lincoln PowerMIG that functions as a TIG also. A spoolgun would be great to have. I have a Millermatic 175, traded down from a MM210 a couple years ago. The 210 wasn't very portable, and I never used it's full output. The MM175 is a nice size and a great little welder. My next TIG will probably be a Dynasty 300 or comparable, when I learn how to weld with this one. Hard to take courses when you're always on the road..... Cheers Doug

Thanks Warren - That information is good to know - I've learned something new today. Cheers Doug

I wouldn't go with any other WG than the 44mm Tial right now, unless it was a financial thing or you didn't need the capacity. V band makes the fab work easier, and it is easier to take out/put in during other work. A factor if you tinker like I do... I'd love to do a RB30 single in my Z. You guys are lucky down there. I have the .82 housing on my GT35R, but you would probably be better with the 1.06 on a 3.0 RB. A local guy is using a GT40R on a 1350cc 'busa with good results (600ish hp), 44mm tial WG. Cheers Doug

If you still have the key code sticker in the glove compartment, some Nissan dealerships have the key cutter still. Get a blank and take it down to them to get cut. It may take a little calling around to find one. If you don't have the sticker, you are SOL on that ignition cylinder. My car had the sticker, and a new key worked perfectly. I know that you can take apart the door cylinders to rekey them, but I've never had an ignition cylinder apart. Good Luck Doug

First - I'm going to preface this with a disclaimer - I really don't roadrace the Z, and I need more skill to push the car to it's limit. Others here have much greater depth of knowledge in what works on the track. These are my results of what I have done.... I ran the AZ 11.75 x 1.25 Wilwoods for 12 years on my car, with a ZX 15/16 master and Polymatrix pads. I rebuilt them before I sold them to the next owner, mainly for piece of mind, as they didn't need it. But, I also bled the brakes at least twice a year. I was very happy with them, even with 280Z drums on the back. I removed the stock pressure reduction valve in the rear lines to give the drums full line pressure. Later, when I did the Z31T CV conversion, I did rears with a Z31 rotor/ Volvo 2 piston rear caliper, which allowed the fronts to work to their full potential. Even better. I never had any heat issues with the brakes, even with a turbocharged car on the Mosport short-track (driving like a goofball with all that power under the hood). A couple of years ago, I built a set of brakes with Z32TT calipers/KVR pads all around. 12.2 x 1.25 Wilwood directional rotors front, 11.75 x .810 rotors rear. I am not as happy with these brakes as I was with the Wilwoods, they do seem to have less feel/modulation is harder. I am going to change out my 15/16 master for a Z32 master this year and see if that helps out. The stock slider valve and my line-lock are right near my turbine housing, so the Z32 master will allow me to eliminate all that piping down there. Also - If you haven't got SS flex lines and are running around with 30 year old rubber hoses in there - get rid of them before you blow one and end up in the sand trap. Please. Hope this helps Doug FWIW, at 116 mph, I can stop dead well before the first turnout.

Hi John - Unfortunately, single phase to my shop, with no hope of upgrading. Single phase also gives me the ability to be (semi) portable with this thing, I can work in anyone's garage, as long as they have a welder plug. Warren - Do you pre-heat the IC cores when you weld tanks on them? When I did my core, I had to pre-heat the unit and then weld, and that was on a 250 amp welder. It was a pretty big core, 24x8x3.5, seems to suck up the heat pretty quickly. Cheers Doug