morbias

There are a couple (on each side) underneath the cowl in front of the windscreen so you need to remove the wipers and the cowl to get to them, and also there's a bolt on the forward door pillar on each side (open the door and you'll see it). Also, the headlight scoops are screwed on to the fenders too but you probably already know this!

If you're going to be a dick then don't be surprised if you don't get much more help on here...

There shouldn't be any area of the floor that has 6 inches of overlapping sheet metal. The fronts of the floors overlap the bottom of the firewall by about an inch so they can be spot welded on, and under that there is a small overlap where the frame rail sits as the frame rails are actually formed as double box sections in that area. Be sure to check them out as they have a tendency to rust out in that area due to the angle causing water to sit there, you might even have to cut some of the lower firewall out to access it. Also, that area is about as structural as structural gets because of the front end of the car wanting to pivot upwards on that point so make sure it's solid first before welding the floor on top of it.

A relay is what, $3? Other than that you can just jump it at the starter as you've already done, not sure I understand what you're asking to be honest!

Regarding #2; the need to section the struts is not to decrease ride height but to increase suspension travel once the car has been lowered. To do this properly you need to have your old shocks and new shocks side by side, then measure the difference - that's generally how much to section, unless for some reason you want to cut less out and make up the difference up with a spacer. Unlike lowering via the springs, reducing ride height via thinner strut top mounts does not decrease suspension travel so shouldn't really dictate how much you section by.

Whenever I've had to re-fit my hood I always start by putting it on the half latch position before bolting it to the hinges, it should bolt up without a problem. Maybe give that a try?

It looks like the hood is adjusted all the way forward at the hinge in that picture. And, it might just be me, but it looks like the tab that the bolts go through might have been removed and then re-welded to the hood, maybe it's not in the correct position? Also, as above, have you tried removing the air cleaner?

Really you need to re-barrel the rears and do a 5 lug conversion to be where you want to be, but I think you've already realised that! tbh I don't think there's any other way around it.

I think these are the rubber insulators mentioned earlier: http://jdm-car-parts.com/collections/weather-strip-seal-rubber-nissan-datsun-fairlady-z-240z-260z-280z-280zx/products/front-bumper-side-bracket-insulator-set-240z What I would do is bolt the bumpers up so there's a bit of tension from the bolts pulling in the ends of the bumper, then use a heat gun to heat the curved sections. After it's cooled the bumper should maintain its new shape, it might take a few heat cycles though. Repeat the process until it's where you want it to be, hopefully it will solve the problem.

It seems likely the problem is either in one of the flasher units (there is one for the turn signals and another for the hazards) or the hazard switch itself (the turn signal circuit goes through the hazard switch).

This one perhaps? http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/classic02a01b/50-1412

A bit misleading that; FFA and Big Sam are two different cars!

Looking good, what are you planning for holding the battery in place?

If you decide to do it, it would be better to weld the seam between inner rocker and floor underneath the car, otherwise the stitch welds would be redundant as the spot welds would take the stress first.

To further clarify the fuel vent hose routing; of the two small hoses that come out of the T-connector on the main filler pipe, one connects up to the top of the tank on UK cars and the other vents to atmosphere out the bottom of the car next to where the filler hose exits the body. First though it loops up from the T-connector and is hooked up to where the rear wiring harness runs along the side of the tailgate, then loops downward through the bottom of the car. If you don't do that you will probably have fuel spilling out everywhere

Drain the tank first, you will want to do that anyway as all the gas in there is probably too old to be useful! There is a drain plug in the center of the underside of the tank - check what comes out too, there might be sludge and rust in which case you might need to swap the tank out for a known good one, or recondition it if it's in decent shape.

If the rust hasn't started creeping up the curved section at the base of the transmission tunnel then it is infinitely easier to trim the replacement floors so that you are welding flat onto a section of the original floor rather than onto the transmission tunnel wall, as making the curvature of a replacement floor fit onto there is a mission all of its own.

Also, if you start pulling the cord at the bottom of the glass then make sure your helper is pushing the glass down towards the bottom until you get the top corners of the weatherstrip seated, otherwise you may find that you can't get them in.

Opel gt? It's like saying, "I saw a dog once, it was brown. Can anyone tell me what type of dog it was?"

Depends what sort of pop it was... "Like I see all these plastic containers but they're all empty and I don't know if I should put new fluids in or even what type of fluids I should put it in them." I don't know if that was a joke, but if not then you really need to do some reading before doing anything else.

The problem with making steel ones is it will be difficult to get them to fit properly as the FG ones can easily bend around the contours of the car body; everyone has their flares mounted in different positions relative to the swage line so getting a one size fits all would be impossible, I would stick to making flares out of a less rigid material. Something like urethane would be good.

I have an early '74 260z (UK model) and 240z bumpers will definitely not bolt on without modification; the bumper mounts are in a different position on the back of the car. Here's how far I had to move the mounting points on a 240z rear valence to make it fit on my car: Rear of my car: If you compare it to the rear of a 240z you can see how far offset they are:

I don't know the dimensions but that won't work as the 260/280z lights are not as wide as the 240z ones:

It's not possible, the 240z tail light cutout is a different length to the main tail light cluster on a 260/280z

I'd also have a new throw-out bearing at hand, I learnt the hard way and had to drop the gearbox again just to do the bearing.