bobbyc

the bezel would need to be cut off to access the internals...autometer can replace the bezel and glass for $25 a gauge though.

as jon said...one stub axle is longer than another..with half shafts the shaft if bolted to the stub...i've never had a problem bolting a new half shaft up to the stub axle...they are the same length.

it's not too far...a little trek up i25...it's like an hour..hour fifteen away.

sound like fun! what part of CO?

918 orange

pm sent

if you heat up that lead you can remove it...there is a lip that the pillar laid in and then was welded and filled with lead...what prob happened is water from the holes above the door got in and rusted it out...if you heat up the area around the A pillar right at the top where it meets the roof...there is more lead. from there it is just drilling out spot welds to remove the roof...along the inside of the door, hatch, and along the top of the windshield...actually under the windshield gasket.

on a 240 like yours...some aluminum bumper brackets and a nice fiberglass bumper... there are steel plates behind the bumper mounts that plates are welded and spot welded to the subframe...so you will be grinding and welding to get it smooth.

that looks like the factory leaded seam right at the hatch....the area above the door could have been rusting in the past holes were brazed...as far as repair goes...anyone here is going to tell you a proper repair is to cut and replace with new metal...a quick patch is fiberglass.

this is my DD...i freakin love this car!

just to add...i ordered mine a while ago...like mid 08...no lugs in mine either.

i use the htc increcible.....freakin awesome phone. i've seen a lot of people use the phone for an in car camera and the quality is pretty good...i know uploading wireless is easy...but you prob lose a lot on the resolution. the phone is easy enough to sync with your computer through USB...and that should help with quality.

they are him cook racing fiberglass flares.

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i will do...

bump

the sleeves on my GC were more than long enought to put where ever i wanted....i just put the top of the perch about 1" below the top of the strut tube...this gave me the option to go as low as i want...and move the collar all the way down to the bottom of the sleeve and i can look like a 4x4 too.

i don't understand....you'd be an idiot to not ask for a lower price, esp on a site like craigslist...if he doesn't feel they are worth $175 then so what? it's not like you are selling something of obvious great value. based on your response...was he the only person to respond to the ad?

i've seen them fitted without the indentions...they might have shaved the bumper down a bit...i know if my 240 didn't have the indetions...then the bumper would not fit.

looking for the rear quarter panel for a 240z...rusted fender lips are fine, does not have to be perfect.

thanks for the reply...i got the rear all apart...it was the front portion...but i found out now if you drill out every spot weld visible it will come part. there is a piece up front that looks like it's layered...but underneath it all there are no spot welds. i'm replacing both inner and outer rockers on this z...it will be completely rust free.

i have a 73 240 ive been working on for a while...as i took it apart i noticed that there was green paint covering every surface on the car...even in between panels...it had runs here and there...i assume it had been dipped in paint after assembly. i recently acquired a '72....it's stock and a little straighter than the 73 so i was thinkin about just working with this one. there was rust in a few of the panel joints and fender lips were gone (not a problem since i'm flaring it anyway)but i wanted to see how far the flakey rust went so i started drilling out the spot welds. i've removed both rear quarters and the rear roll pan so far....it appears that this car was not dipped after assembly. on the inside of the fenders and everywhere else the orange (918)paint job didn't hit, there is bare metal and light surface rust everywhere. has anyone else run into this? i've seen some nice restos on older zs...and it appears they were all just sand/media blasted...which wouldn't get into the areas i'm taking about. if in almost 40 years it hasn't accumulated more than surface rust i think i will be ok for the time i have this car...but it still bugs me....i'm thinkin i may just just get a wire brush after it...and the por15 it all...i just hate to cut corners, and sometimes that gets the best of me as i want it to be perfect...but it's seemingly impossible on this car.

i've been searching for pics of someones rocker replacement. best i found was mull's videos...but they aren't too detailed and are sped up. i'm interested in knowing what all was done to remove the rocker...every spot weld drilled out? sawzall or cutoff disc? it seems the area behind the front wheel would be difficult to disassemble vs just cutting because it all seems to over lap.

i bought one...it wouldn't reach the areas i was lookin to spot weld...just ended up doin a plug weld...much easier...i took it back...thanks guys!

gabe...she looks awesome! she's come a long long ways over the years...amazing!